Synthetic oil - roughly the same

MajMac392 · Dec 17, 2004

GSXR, is there a publication that will list the rankings for Diesel Oils? You know like a Consumer Report type article that shows how all of the oils tested against each other? You have provided a lot of technical info, like any good engineer does, but sometimes you lost me on ash content, etc. I'd like to read something that compares all the major brands.

One other comment I'll make is about a 1987 Celebrity, with a 2.8L engine that I had up to 3 years ago. My background is in automotive and aircraft maintenance and I normally do about 95% of the things to my own vehicles. My '87 Celebrity lasted me about 15 years before the body started to have that nice New England decay. The car had 352,000 miles on it when I sold it and used little oil. I religiously changed oil and filter on it every 3-4000 miles. The engine was quite tight and I didn't even get much seepage from the pans or valve covers until 200,000+ miles. The engine was never taken apart for anything nor the transmission. Definitely the best car I have owned. I predominantly used Valvoline in it while I was stationed in Missouri but for the past several years here in Maine always used Texaco Havoline. Both of those oils worked very well for me. That's my long winded story and I'm sticking to it!! /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

GoodGuy · Dec 17, 2004

Is there a synthetic product for e-hydro systems ?? Once again I use JD Hydo Fluid & add Lucas Hydraulic Booster, oops, I guess that needs to stop once reading bobistheoilguy. What do you use in the hydro's ??

MikePA · Dec 18, 2004

What do you use in the hydro's ?? 
Amsoil hydraulic transmission fluid.

gsxr1100 · Dec 18, 2004

Most airplanes engines have ashless. At least the ones I work on air. The clearances are too tight for it and sometimes it will cause deposits in engine passages, eat up bearings race tracks etc.

Instead of me re-inventing the wheel, from BITOG:

”The perecent sulfated ash is the ash produced when the detegent is treated with sulfuric acid and burned. All organic material in the detergent burns leaving behind the metal sulfated ash. Sulfate ash results from the reaction of metal compounds with sulfuric acid directly, as with metal hydroxides and metal carbonates, or through the oxidative degradation of the metal sulfonate.

While detergents have the greatest contribution to ash, other compounds also contribute to ash, such as AW agents (ZDDP) and FM's such as MoDTC.

Since the metal compounds can lead to the formation of inorganic metal ashes on combustion, the formulator has to know the metal content of any additive in order to offset the effects of ash (metal) containing additives.

Having said that, there are a number of ashless detergents, and anti-wear and extreme pressure agents being developed as we speak. Many of these ashless additives are based on various phosphor compounds, esters of phosphors, and specialty esters. As others have stated, these compounds will be more expensive, at least initially.”

So most oils will have some small amount of ash, and some other oils that cost more to make will have zero ash. It comes down to dollars and I personally do not want ash in my engine. If you have a turbo, it would make sense to NOT use those ash oils.

Also a list of diesel oils is online. It only compares all the oils, VI, TBN, etc, not the real additives etc. For the real data on the oil, I think you will need either a huge pot or a 6-pack and just sit down and do some surfing.

MajMac392 · Dec 18, 2004

Thanks for the further info on ash gsxr. Now to find the time to surf, that is another story.

r0GuE · Dec 19, 2004

( ( Lexus is Amsoil 5w-40 and My Kubota has Amsoil 15w-40
)

I'm ready to make the switch and buy Amsoil. Is this the exact oil you use in your BX?

SAE 15W-40 Synthetic Heavy Duty Diesel and Marine Motor Oil
API CI-4+/SL/CF/CF-2, EO-N+03', DHD-1, ECF-1, VDS-3
Custom-Blended For Outstanding Performance in Today's Engines
/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif )

OK, so I'm preparing to order, and I pulled my manual out to see how much oil I would need (looks like 3 quarts). But I noticed that it calls for 10W-30 or 10W-40. Is 15W-40 acceptable (I assume it is as good and better)? Obviosly it is, because you use it, but I'd like a tech answer (which I'm sure you can provide /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif )

Also, If I'm only averaging 50 hours a year, is it ok to leave this stuff in there that long? I thought every 6 months might be better because oil pulls moisture, but maybe the synth doesn't?

Thanks!

gsxr1100 · Dec 19, 2004

The 15w40 has been used in diesel for years without a problem. The SAE 20, 40 10w-30 and 10w-40 would be fine if using dino. I would not use a dino 15w-40 since the pumping point would be too high.

The additive package in the 15w-40 will be better then any 10w-30 or 40.

I also think that the manual calls for only oil changes every 100 hours. AND oil filter changes every 200 hours or every other oil change. That is in my BX22 at least. So doing the oil filter every 100 hours is not needed per the manual; but why change the oil and leave an old filter on? I personally think you run a chance of failing the anti-drain back valve and/or putting more wear metals (ppm) back into clean oil. More stress on oil per say when leaving oil filter on.

If you use a good synthetic and a good filter, changing oil and filter every 100 hours or once per year is more then fine..in my book.

My BX should have about 100 hours on the oil when I send in oil test. It will be nice to see the results of it. I know my Powerstroke diesel put more stress on my oil then my BX and the oil tests were better then my car! So we will see.

Oh, Wix is a good filter but I would stick with Baldwin, Fleetguard, Kubota or Amsoil...but that is me.

To close, do not think I am some Amsoil nut here. It is just for the price and the additves and PAO/esters, it is a hard oil to beat.

sneaky_pete · Dec 19, 2004

( ...do not think I am some Amsoil nut here.)

uh oh, too late! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

gsxr1100 · Dec 19, 2004

Amsoil nut? who? what, where....

I hear ya. The only reason why I personally like Amsoil is that for the price and what you get, it is hard to beat. There are better oils out there, but the price is huge when compared.

Redline is really good oil but their price is more then Amsoil’s. LE is a good oil, but I am not paying a synthetic oil price for a dino oil. Mobil is not up to snuff and Shell is too much a dino. Royal purple is ok, but again a high price and there additives are about the same as Mobil’s or below. So dollar-for-dollar, Amsoil to me is the best out there to date. Show me better oil and I am there.
/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Charolais · Dec 19, 2004

This is an excellent thread. Been reading it for days now and it's turned out real good so far. Nice to see a calm discussion on oil too. gsxr1100 you've delivered lots of great information. My hat is off to you.

Also lots of good questions by others. Don't want to leave anyone out so thanks to all and keep it up. Great reading. For me that is. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

Carry on.