T&T - Which T more useful?

[JoshJ]

Does either T work is the better question.... /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

Crowned a driveway with a stuck top link (mechanical, not hydraulic) and a mechanical side link. Sidelink was used much more often, so maybe I just got lucky and the stuck toplink was just the length I needed it to be. Came out good, but would have liked to have been able to tilt back and run it over with just the rear blade of the BB.

One of these days I'll remember to throw a level in with my effects so I can check the tilt of the blade a little better than by "it looks right"

 

[JoshJ]

Does either T work is the better question.... /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

Crowned a driveway with a stuck top link (mechanical, not hydraulic) and a mechanical side link. Sidelink was used much more often, so maybe I just got lucky and the stuck toplink was just the length I needed it to be. Came out good, but would have liked to have been able to tilt back and run it over with just the rear blade of the BB.

One of these days I'll remember to throw a level in with my effects so I can check the tilt of the blade a little better than by "it looks right"

 

[MadReferee]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Now I need some information. I have one set of hydraulics on the rear of my machine and would like to have T&T. Is there a economical way to do this. The worm gear for tilt could be it but hydraulics are my friend!! Second question is what tilt cylinder should I buy? And lastly do I need a check valve on it? )</font>

Since you only have one set of remotes you can use a diverter to make one into two. A flick of a 12V momentary switch will select which part (the top or the tilt) will get fluid.

As to the second question, most cylnders will leak down under load and both the top and tilt link cylinders are always under load. Cylinders with check valves are better than those without check valves. However finding check valves that will do the job is extermely difficult, if not impossible. Unless, that is, if you purchase cylinders from CCM who are the only USA distributors that I know of. They have the correct valves.

 

[MadReferee]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Now I need some information. I have one set of hydraulics on the rear of my machine and would like to have T&T. Is there a economical way to do this. The worm gear for tilt could be it but hydraulics are my friend!! Second question is what tilt cylinder should I buy? And lastly do I need a check valve on it? )</font>

Since you only have one set of remotes you can use a diverter to make one into two. A flick of a 12V momentary switch will select which part (the top or the tilt) will get fluid.

As to the second question, most cylnders will leak down under load and both the top and tilt link cylinders are always under load. Cylinders with check valves are better than those without check valves. However finding check valves that will do the job is extermely difficult, if not impossible. Unless, that is, if you purchase cylinders from CCM who are the only USA distributors that I know of. They have the correct valves.

 

[_RaT_]

Paul, anytime your on a slope sideways you need to tilt the PHD, otherwise your drilling at an angle.

 

[_RaT_]

Paul, anytime your on a slope sideways you need to tilt the PHD, otherwise your drilling at an angle.

 

[Dex]

As you folks have read I have been doing some research on T&T. I need to know if anyone out there has a John Deere factory setup for T&T. I have contacted JD and they are no help. I want to see the items for the stock set up since it is supposed to divert the hydraulics to use the loader joystick. I would like to see where the electric switch is located, the valve body location, he diverter valve location, and the size of the cylinders that they are using. If someone has this setup please post some pictures or send them to my mailbox. TKS

 

[Dex]

As you folks have read I have been doing some research on T&T. I need to know if anyone out there has a John Deere factory setup for T&T. I have contacted JD and they are no help. I want to see the items for the stock set up since it is supposed to divert the hydraulics to use the loader joystick. I would like to see where the electric switch is located, the valve body location, he diverter valve location, and the size of the cylinders that they are using. If someone has this setup please post some pictures or send them to my mailbox. TKS

 

[daTeacha]

When I bought my tractor, I had the dealer install an Add-a-Grapple. He plumbed for the grapple by putting a T fitting in each of the lines for the rear hydraulics. So long as I don't want to use the grapple at the same time as the rear auxilliary hydraulics, the one valve that came with the rear outlets works just fine. I have quick connects that I can take apart at the loader mounting point and another set at the grapple, so I have 3 points where I can connect to the hydraulics controlled by the rear valve, front, middle, and back of the tractor.

 

[daTeacha]

When I bought my tractor, I had the dealer install an Add-a-Grapple. He plumbed for the grapple by putting a T fitting in each of the lines for the rear hydraulics. So long as I don't want to use the grapple at the same time as the rear auxilliary hydraulics, the one valve that came with the rear outlets works just fine. I have quick connects that I can take apart at the loader mounting point and another set at the grapple, so I have 3 points where I can connect to the hydraulics controlled by the rear valve, front, middle, and back of the tractor.