Taking In Used Tractor -- What To Care For First?

[eventer79]

/pine, it is a Shubaura diesel. I know it has been changed at some point (and was done regularly when it was with original owner, but she lost her farm, hence tractor being in storage for 10 years with random husband friend), I just don't know when. My personal truck is a 7.3L Ford diesel, so I was looking at it from that angle and if my oil was that black in the truck, well, it would definitely mean it had been too long and it needed attention. If these small diesels are different, please enlighten. I tend to be an, erm, over-researcher, but hadn't gotten to engine schematics yet, except for basic specs.

Coyote, thanks for the lock tip. I knew the wheels had to be straight, but couldn't figure out the other part. Should you be able to depress it any time the tires are not moving? I have stomped pretty hard (and I am pretty strong) when it has sitting still and it has not budged, so I'm not sure if it is stuck or it just only will move if a tire is going to slip?

(Too bad you live in VT, BF just got a new chainsaw, he was a good boy and got a Stihl, but it's his first one and he is kinda intimidated by it. I try to gently help with directions, but I'm not sure he really believes I know what I'm talking about, LOL)

rsallen, yes, on any type of equipment I have used with any type of rattling motion, particularly vibration, it causes the screws/bolts to loosen in their threads and slowly back out over time. I have a terrible memory unless I make lots of lists and charts, so sometimes, I only notice when something falls off. If I'm lucky, it is attached to something else, but since I'm not a very lucky person, more often, I say not very nice words as my net hoop (or something else) sinks to the bottom of the river. On the plus side, sometimes the river is not very deep and we can find it. Other times, well, 30' down, that puppy is gone...

Lock washers help, locking nuts help, (although not sure if those would be applicable or available in all sizes and tractor applications) and locktite definitely helps.

ETA -- no problem, rsallen, it gives me an opportunity to talk about something I do know so I don't look like a clueless idiot. ;-)

 

[California]

Should you be able to depress [the differential lock pedal] any time the tires are not moving? I have stomped pretty hard (and I am pretty strong) when it has sitting still and it has not budged, so I'm not sure if it is stuck or it just only will move if a tire is going to slip?

Don't force it any harder than you would push any gearshift lever. What engages is the side of one gear with the side of another gear and there are only a few big notches for it to fall into. The difflock won't engage until these notches line up then it will engage easily.

My second Yanmar, a YM186D, had considerable wear in the difflock lever mechanism. (I think its history was snow removal and the guy stood on the difflock all the time). See my post over in this thread
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/yanmar/201112-trans-case-lock-seem-not.html#post2317439
where the difflock was made functional again simply by welding back some metal into a deep gouge in the engagement mechanism. In the diagram, pressing the pedal forces the rollpin (#13) up the ramp in the fork (#12). This slides the fork sideways and engages the difflock cogs. (#18, 19). That post describes how repairing the face of the fork's ramp was all that was needed.

My point here: don't stomp on the pedal. If that Shibaura is designed similar to Yanmar then excess force will just bend the shift lever or that rollpin. And don't expect engagement until one rear wheel has turned a portion of a revolution relative to the other rear wheel. If the 4x4 is engaged this difflock engagement may not occur for a while.

Don't worry about asking beginner questions! Asking what we don't know is what makes this site work.

 

[Coyote machine]

You're far from a clueless idiot! You ask lots of good questions and do your research- better then many. It's how I've learned just about everything I know about tractors on TBN.
Now, as far as the locking diff. Stomping should not be needed, more like stepping firmly on the pedal to engage, best when standing still. If you think of it as wanting to prevent slippage that you can't otherwise, by using low range, 4wd and higher RPMs, THEN engage the limited slip to get you out of the mud/ditch, etc. It almost always works to give one the extra edge, before the 4 letter words start.

You mentioned chainsaws. Stihl and all others, use ONLY highest octane NON-ethanol fuel, if available in your area, with Stihl's best 'mix' oil. Do NOT store any fuel in cans with vents, and do not store any fuel in the saw over 30 days MAX! Run saw to empty at 'end' of season, if you plan to store it. Rotate between two sharp chains and flip sawbar over every chain change, (when one is dull). Where ALL safety gear, chaps, chainsaw boots and helmet with screen and ear muffs, and chainsaw gloves. Try Bailey's for any, all of above. They also have a bunch of good books on proper saw use and tree felling, etc.
I used to work as a pro tree surgeon in my youth....
Any questions fell free to ask or PM me.

Your engine pic #4. I suggest checking the battery connections at the battery posts and remove the ground cable first and clean it and the positive cable. Wear gloves, old clothes and safety glasses. Check the water level under the plastic strip covering the cells. Fill with distilled water to the split ring and then after cleaning the battery posts to shiny metal and the cable ends too, put the felt washers from TSC or auto store under the cable ends on the battery posts and spray battery protectsant sealer on the post/cable connector ends after having tightened them up as snug as possible. Do NOT pry on the battery or posts to get the cable ends off, use a battery post puller, ( auto store) to remove them if they won't remove by carefully prying open the open end of the clamp with a big screwdriver blade, after having loosened the bolt/nut assembly.
Wash down the entire battery with a baking soda solution, CAREFULLY, and rinsing thoroughly with a slow stream of hose water, NO pressure treatment here. Get a specific gravity tester, (auto store) and test each cell to match. Any dead cells, replace the battery with an Interstate battery rated to the needed amps for the tractor.
Remove and replace the air filter, after vacuuming out the housing. Make sure the radiator fins are clean and blow compressed air through them from the fan side forward if needed. Check the fan belt by turning it to enable see glazing/cracking, etc. Replace it if either is present. Adjust it so that there is deflection between the alternator pulley and the fan pulley, with no squeal when the engine is running, AFTER having done the adjustment. Also check upper and lower radiator hoses for cracking, leaks, too squishy a feel, ( indicates possible deterioration internally, etc.). And check the radiator cap and it's gasket to make sure it seals and maintains pressure. Check rad fluid and change out if it falls below freezing cooling specs on a hygrometer, (auto store).
I suggest moving to a synthetic Diesel oil in 5W-40 range, like Rotella T-6 or Mobil 1 Diesel oil, or similar 100% synthetic. Make sure whatever oil you use is for diesels: CI rated, Compression Ignition, NOT SI, Spark Ignition, (as in gas engines). Drain the oil once the tractor has reached operating temp and replace both the filter and oil at the same time.
Start a chart of what you did and when and hours on the tractor when you did what for future reference.
Change out the fuel filter while your doing your pre-winter maintenance. Also check and balance all tire pressures to book specs.
That's it for now.:dance1:

/pine, it is a Shubaura diesel. I know it has been changed at some point (and was done regularly when it was with original owner, but she lost her farm, hence tractor being in storage for 10 years with random husband friend), I just don't know when. My personal truck is a 7.3L Ford diesel, so I was looking at it from that angle and if my oil was that black in the truck, well, it would definitely mean it had been too long and it needed attention. If these small diesels are different, please enlighten. I tend to be an, erm, over-researcher, but hadn't gotten to engine schematics yet, except for basic specs.

Coyote, thanks for the lock tip. I knew the wheels had to be straight, but couldn't figure out the other part. Should you be able to depress it any time the tires are not moving? I have stomped pretty hard (and I am pretty strong) when it has sitting still and it has not budged, so I'm not sure if it is stuck or it just only will move if a tire is going to slip?

(Too bad you live in VT, BF just got a new chainsaw, he was a good boy and got a Stihl, but it's his first one and he is kinda intimidated by it. I try to gently help with directions, but I'm not sure he really believes I know what I'm talking about, LOL)

rsallen, yes, on any type of equipment I have used with any type of rattling motion, particularly vibration, it causes the screws/bolts to loosen in their threads and slowly back out over time. I have a terrible memory unless I make lots of lists and charts, so sometimes, I only notice when something falls off. If I'm lucky, it is attached to something else, but since I'm not a very lucky person, more often, I say not very nice words as my net hoop (or something else) sinks to the bottom of the river. On the plus side, sometimes the river is not very deep and we can find it. Other times, well, 30' down, that puppy is gone...

Lock washers help, locking nuts help, (although not sure if those would be applicable or available in all sizes and tractor applications) and locktite definitely helps.

ETA -- no problem, rsallen, it gives me an opportunity to talk about something I do know so I don't look like a clueless idiot. ;-)

 

[rsallen]

Humm, I don't think I was talking/thinking/going beyond the op's question.
In my limited experience with that model tractor (mine) I found the mounting bolts almost to the man as loose....Almost everyone of the what 28 bolts is it? But there are four behind a hydraulics manifold you can not get without pulling it off.......while changing the hydro fluid would be the time to see to that.
Use Locktite or not as you like but check those mounting bolts front to rear.

 

[ultrarunner]

Remember their are different strengths of Locktite.

I mostly use medium which is Blue...

A few applications on medical equipment require Red... which is stronger.

 

[eventer79]

You're far from a clueless idiot! You ask lots of good questions and do your research- better then many. It's how I've learned just about everything I know about tractors on TBN.
Now, as far as the locking diff. Stomping should not be needed, more like stepping firmly on the pedal to engage, best when standing still. If you think of it as wanting to prevent slippage that you can't otherwise, by using low range, 4wd and higher RPMs, THEN engage the limited slip to get you out of the mud/ditch, etc. It almost always works to give one the extra edge, before the 4 letter words start.

Well, thanks, that makes me feel better -- and I did note in the manual that with the 4WD, it can take a minute for it to engage. I was at least careful enough that I am 99.99% sure I didn't bend or break anything, nothing budged at all or made any noises or anything. I'll have to poke around under there...

You mentioned chainsaws. Stihl and all others, use ONLY highest octane NON-ethanol fuel...

It's not my saw, it is boyfriend's. I can use a chainsaw, but I don't like to if someone else is available (as long as they don't charge) because I have chronic tendonitis in my right wrist/forearm and I am safety **** AND very good at randomly (although not majorly...yet) hurting myself. I'm fine cutting something off a fence or on the ground for short periods, but I try not to tempt fate. BF IS an equipment perfectionist (you could eat off the engine blocks of his tractors/vehicles) and knows more about engines than I will ever forget, so that saw will look and run shop new for its entire life! He just needs to get more confident with it -- maybe I should see if I can sneak him into my agency's chainsaw certification class, LOL. Thanks for offering advice though!!

Your engine pic #4. I suggest checking the battery connections at the battery posts and remove the ground cable first and clean it and the positive cable.

Ah, good one, hadn't thought of that yet (it's hard being six people at once, sigh, why do they expect me to show up at work to get a paycheck??). I used to do that a lot with my first vehicle as a teenager ('85 6.0L diesel suburban...yeah, I stuck out in the school parking lot) and the baking soda rinse was like magic!

Get a specific gravity tester, (auto store) and test each cell to match. Any dead cells, replace the battery with an Interstate battery rated to the needed amps for the tractor.

Oooo, permission to buy a new tool? Sigh, no more monehs. If battery needs replacement (I could probably answer this by looking, but I only get to see it on weekends right now), does it just take a regular starting battery or are there special tractor batteries (ok, that feels like a dumb question)? The manual just says 12V, 70 amp-hours.

Remove and replace the air filter, after vacuuming out the housing.

Ordered it, picking it up tomorrow!

Make sure the radiator fins are clean and blow compressed air through them from the fan side forward if needed. Check the fan belt by turning it to enable see glazing/cracking, etc. Replace it if either is present. Adjust it so that there is deflection between the alternator pulley and the fan pulley, with no squeal when the engine is running, AFTER having done the adjustment. Also check upper and lower radiator hoses for cracking, leaks, too squishy a feel...

Checked belt briefly, re-checking this weekend. Got one short squeal that day on startup, otherwise, it kept its mouth shut. Are these tractors like my truck (also has a single belt), where if the belt goes, you lose e.v.e.r.y.t.h.i.n.g? Although I guess less of an issue since it's a lot less complicated and you can just stop and get off because you are not in the interstate.

Check rad fluid and change out if it falls below freezing cooling specs on a hygrometer, (auto store).

Stop it, stop it, STOP IT! I cannot afford new tools, I cannot afford new tools (she chants to herself) -- stop telling me about new toys, now I want all the things!

I suggest moving to a synthetic Diesel oil in 5W-40 range, like Rotella T-6 or Mobil 1 Diesel oil, or similar 100% synthetic.

Synthetic is still pricey here and it doesn't get that cold in the winter (which is why I moved here!), so I've always just put 15W-40 in everything and manual suggested the same. I just got the same oil I put in my 7.3L Ford diesel. I think....oh no, now I am paranoid, I grabbed the Rotella at the expensive end of the aisle where the diesel stuff usually is, I'll have to double check tomorrow.

Start a chart of what you did...

BAHAHAHHA, you should see my spreadsheets. Yes, that is plural. I've got everything from which fluid to use on the front axle to HST oil capacity to the minimum ground clearance. Oh and a letter-coded chart of maintenance needs and parts required based on priority, which I keep re-organizing. I think I have a problem.:shocked:

Change out the fuel filter while your doing your pre-winter maintenance. Also check and balance all tire pressures to book specs.

Done and done!

I think I have fallen in new forum love with this place. Thanks all of you for being awesome, it's the tractor version of ford-trucks.com (also really awesome guys, non-Ford affiliated if you've never been there and are a Ford-ie)!

 

[eventer79]

Oh and TYVM California, I'm bookmarking that page, that is very helpful!!!

 

[Coyote machine]

To the OP, you can get the battery tested for specific gravity, ability to handle a 'load' put on the battery, (this load test simulates real world draws, like headlights, etc. on the batteries stored capacity over time and accounting for temperature), at most auto stores- free of charge! No need to buy any tools.
No special charging battery- it's not a boat. I do recommend Interstate Brand- I sold them when I owned my foreign auto shop, and I run them in everything I own, four Toyotas, 1 Kioti tractor, 1 Mako Boat with 225HP 4 stroke Yamaha, various ATVs, Dr.mowers, etc. Just get one of equal amps: 70 and 12 volts, when/if you need it. And yes, when battery is dead, tractor won't start.

Radiator coolant could also be tested if you get enough, say a pint from the radiator or the overflow bottle, assuming it has one, at most friendly garages in local area.
Oil should be OK with 15-40 DIESEL for your woose climate:laughing:
Chainsaw info for use of anyone reading, no assumptions here, thought it might help ease the BF's jitters.:confused3:

Good on the lists. There is help for that.

BTW, what's a Ford?:shocked:

 

[eventer79]

Ford? Psh, only the best truck ever! Well, I will qualify that statement to the 7.3L deisel. My Precioussss...

And ROFL, yes, I did realize the tractor won't start with a dead battery -- maybe that was just a typo, but I meant will it all go dead with a fan belt broken, but then I realized that didn't matter as much on a tractor because you won't be on the interstate. Well, at least I won't!

And I love my wussy climate, TYVM! Grew up shoveling ice and scraping snow and busting up frozen water buckets in the Ohio River valley.
NEVER AGAIN!

I did get the tractor all oiled and lubed yesterday, of course, I broke something already -- one of the grease fittings was so stopped up and brittle and I guess I did not realize my own superhuman strength and I snapped the **** thing off.....of course exactly flush with the metal. On the plus side, the plug of old grease is still there so at least nothing will run out, sigh. It looks like one can just tap it out and screw a new one back in though?

We couldn't get the oil filter off either, I think it may be rusted on, it looks like it was put on in 2006, which was 100 hours ago for the tractor, sigh. We tried hard, but the cost/benefit ratio dropped, so at least it has new oil and I will come up with an ingenious plan for next oil change. Both neighbour and I tried all kinds of tools and strategies but there is no room in there! Let me just take that loader off for a second.....yeah right.

All that's left is to top off hydraulic/HST fluid (poor thing was seriously lacking), and clean off the battery. We got the augur set up yesterday and have a mailbox to put in today!

Still haven't figured out the diff. lock issue, but that is low priority right now, will explore that more. Thanks for all y'all's help!!!! :thumbsup:

 

[California]

I realize the tractor won't start with a dead battery -- I meant will it all go dead with a fan belt broken

broke something already -- one of the grease fittings... just tap it out and screw a new one back in?

We couldn't get the oil filter off

All that's left is to top off hydraulic/HST fluid

The fan belt turns the water pump. Aside from that you don't need a functioning charging system, just a battery strong enough to get the thing started. On some diesels there is a fuel solenoid (shutoff) that needs 12v to stay open. Headlights are nice. The engine itself doesn't need electricity to run.

An auto parts store will have the Zerk tap to remove the grease fitting.

The brute force method for a reluctant oil filter is hammer a big punch through it and out the other side for more leverage. If there isn't room for this, an auto parts store has a special socket that fits the flats on the outer end of the oil filter.

I think an HST is as fussy as an automotive A/T requiring clean fluid and filter to function properly, ie more sensitive than a gear transmission. That unused tractor may have water condensation in the fluid by now. And a tractor's work environment will load the fluid with dust faster than automotive use. I would replace the fluid and filter as part of the restoration.