Taking In Used Tractor -- What To Care For First?

[Coyote machine]

Yeah, I meant to say broken fan belt would render fan and alternator inoperative. :duh: The real problem with a broken belt is you might not know it and it could overheat quickly and do engine damage. I suggest carrying a spare in your toolbox on the tractor, so if it broke you could do an in field repair, or just take the expressway.
Can you raise the loader enough and place it on top of a stone wall or something similar to keep it SAFELY raised while you get under it to allow better oil filter access? An inexpensive tool is a ratchet driven strap wrench, available at most auto stores. The most useful ones give you the ability to use a ratchet or breaker bar of 3/8 or 1/2" size. One example: KD Tools 3149 Nylon Strap Oil Filter Wrench

I second the motion to drain the hydro fluid and it's filter(s), and fill with fresh fluid. AND the front end axle fluid, which could be either gear oil OR hydraulic fluid, depending on what was specified for your rig.

 

[eventer79]

I would definitely like to drain the HST/hyd. oil and replace filter, but until old house sells, I've hit my $$ limit for now (and holy crap, I have to find something that holds 24 qts of...anything). We did top it off with some nice stuff and I did pick up one of the cheap cap oil filter wrenches for next time -- I think with that (it has a socket fitting in the end that is raised) we might could pull it off. Blocking up the bucket is a good idea -- although now that California told me the hammer method, I kinda wanna do it just because...well, destroying things is fun.

Front axle DOES use same fluid as tranny/hydraulics. It will not be working very hard for a while, now, I am being very gentle with it until I have time and money to finish off the big stuff. Battery feels good (it was 30 this morning, omg, brrrrr for this wuss!) although I can't get the lights to work anymore, I did get the headlights on...once, but I think the switch broke (I didn't do that one!!). That's ok, I'm not going out there when it's cold and dark anyway until I have to!

Thanks!!! This tractor could have its own blog, haha -- I did get to drill a hole (eventually) with the big augur today. Of course, not the hole I WANTED for the mailbox (ground too hard next to road, we had to use a SHOVEL AND POST HOLE DIGGER, THE HORROR!!! And 18" hole wasn't really work asking neighbour to bring over hydraulic driver) but when I went to drill a hole for augur to set in when not in use....errr, I think I gave my neighbour a new well in the corner of his attachment storage pen. At least I know it will drill somewhere!

 

[Danno1]

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What happened is someone didn't lube the gasket when they installed the last filter. And then probably put it on too tight also.


I would strongly advise against using the screwdriver/hammer method. The oil filter can is thin sheet metal and can rip. Then you'll really be in a pickle!



I have one of these:

Lisle 63600 Oil Filter Wrench 2-1/2" to 3-1/8"


and one of these:

Oil Change Tools | MSCDirect.com

Although you can be sure I don't have the $50 dollar version!!! You can get them for less than $10.



They've gotten me through all the stuck oil filters I've come across.




Oh ya, PS. the battery hygrometer is only a buck or two.


.

 

[eventer79]

Thanks, I wouldn't want to break an important part! I did get a wrench similar to the first one recently, I'm going to win next time!!

 

[eventer79]

Just wanted to share an update on where we are now (BFF is NEVER getting her tractor back, ROFL). And yes, I am already hopelessly addicted to my "bitey bucket." (the 4 in 1)

Good stuff:

As noted, oil changed, new air filter, cleaned radiator screen, topped off hydraulic fluid.
Greased all fittings and ordered (thanks TBN!!) one of those awesome $20 assorted fittings kits of eBay to replace the broken one.
Cleaned off most large body panels and engine block, although it still needs a bath (screw that, it's cold).
Figured out how to turn on headlights (it's the little things).
Bushhogged about 4 acres successfully and played with small backgrading with bitey bucket, fun!
Discovered I never have to carry anything again, omg, FEL bliss.

Slightly Less Good Stuff:

"Cruise control" appears not to work, tried it according to manual, nothing happened, I has a sad.
It appears to be stuck in 4WD, one more test to do, but I'll take that over the opposite.
Flashers do not work, I believe wiring/switch problem?
Thought I had draft control, but now not so sure, bummer, but am practicing bucket skillz. Could just not work.
Augers are not magic (merely a sad realization in the land of rocks).

And just a pic for fun of the BF showing off his new Xmas hat, now he goes w/ my tractor!

 

[Coyote machine]

Probably a dead flasher unit, (relay) for the hazard lights. Cruise could be a number of things, not familiar with the specific setup. 4x4 is better on than off, as you said. Draft control could be a number of things, but check linkage issues 1st.
Sounds like you're making progress. Careful backblading with the front bucket, it can put a lot of strain on the loader structure.
What's the final test you need to do for the 4x4?

 

[aczlan]

It appears to be stuck in 4WD, one more test to do, but I'll take that over the opposite.

Assuming that the lever moves, try lifting the front end off the ground and disengaging the 4WD, then you and your BF each try to spin a front wheel in the same direction (or spin one while holding the other still). Sometimes the 4WD gets "wound up" and lifting the front up lets it release.

Aaron Z

 

[eventer79]

Assuming that the lever moves, try lifting the front end off the ground and disengaging the 4WD...

LOL, thanks, Aaron, you answered it for me; yep, just have to do this, maybe today, I have to go run it anyway. The lever moves freely back and forth, but since the mechanical part is inside steel casing, obviously, I can't see if it's doing anything (do they have a linkage similar to a truck?) and I stopped flipping it after reading manual that you supposed to use clutch to engage (or disengage, I forget already), oops.

And yes, definitely being careful with the loader -- I am only backblading very small amounts of light, loose material very short distances, 99% just to play with and learn the different angles of the bucket/clamshell and practice fine movement with the three levers. I have access to both a big box blade and a grader blade, so I have no need to push the FEL.

I'll have to take some pics of the cruise shifter. I have a wiring schematic, just need to spend some time with the multi-meter and find the relays (some of Ford's diagrams are...not exactly precise!).

Oh, I do have a pic of the FEL levers -- on another thread, someone told me if there was a canister behind one of the levers, it had draft control, but manual is unclear. I tried raising FEL all the way, then pushing 1st lever all the way forward and letting go. It just stopped, no magic.

 

[aczlan]

Oh, I do have a pic of the FEL levers -- on another thread, someone told me if there was a canister behind one of the levers, it had draft control, but manual is unclear. I tried raising FEL all the way, then pushing 1st lever all the way forward and letting go. It just stopped, no magic.
View attachment 352630

I think you mean float? If it has that, the lever to lift the bucket should "stick" in the "lower" position, but the "sticking" mechanism might be stuck in the "non-stick" position.
If you can get a picture of the make/model/serial number on the valve someone can probbaly dig up a manufacturers spec sheet which will say what features it should have.

Aaron Z

 

[Coyote machine]

Yeah, I was wondering if you, OP, were referring to 'draft,' which is a 3PH lever control for the rear of the tractor, or float which is the FEL position which puts the bucket into 'float' over the ground surface, rather than being set in one position rigidly like when you lower the bucket to the ground, it stays at the position you lowered it to, UNLESS you have it in float...
The way 'float' is engaged is to lower the bucket with the FEL level and then stick the lever as far forward as it will go, WITHOUT forcing it, and it should stay in that position, sort of 'stuck' forward into a detent like setting, until you pull back on the FEL lever to release float. Don't try it with the bucket raise completely- it's designed to work for ground contact so the bucket will 'float' and drag over topsoil, for instance, while backdragging. I hear tell one can float going forward too, but I've never been able to get it to work for my tractor?!:confused2::confused3: