Tandem axle wagon build
- Thread starter Hooked_on_HP
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rus_geek
Gold Member
14" would be right. Starting with the axles centered, the front and rear distances would be equal. Now if you move the axles 7" to the rear, that would increase the front distance by 7" *and* decrease the back distance by 7" so your total difference becomes 14"
jayste
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Feb 12, 2008
- Messages
- 1,671
- Tractor
- 2004 Kubota M4800 SU
Nice looking trailer. Though the thread title had me confused because I expected to see 2 spread axles and a running gear!
I've seen a similar trailer to this; it might have been 3RRL (Rob)- maybe not. Anyway, he really likes his. Looking forward to the next stage. I have to say that's some nice equipment to work with!
Jay
I've seen a similar trailer to this; it might have been 3RRL (Rob)- maybe not. Anyway, he really likes his. Looking forward to the next stage. I have to say that's some nice equipment to work with!Jay
SPIKER
Elite Member
When I built mine I used 3 hunks of the heavy wall round tube, with pin through them. this way there is a lot more material there to rotate around and to support the pins. I think you will probably be OK with the hinge the way you built it though.
I forgot to take some pics when I was out there today, dang it anyhow. (my phone was almost dead so pics probably would not have worked anyhow...)
I did look through my OLD pics the other night and saw how i made the PANS for the bottom, I bent the bottom pans up 3 or 4 inches with a 2" bend out (think top hat shape). I could then have a very smooth bottom 4" up from the sides. The 2" bend OUT then created some reinforcing built into the bottom metal pans. I built one that was 4'x 5' and one that was 2'x5' inside bottom. I have one SEEM weld across the top that was welded flush and there is a cross member under that seem. it was ground smooth for easy dumping.
I placed my spring hangers as far to rear as I could, that way I had the axle as far back and would make more tong weight which I planned on using my 3pt so never had a issue. the dump works great for wood behind the truck this way. Would like to have an independent hyd system for dumping though as the tractor works OK but that is not always there to dump it...
Mark
I forgot to take some pics when I was out there today, dang it anyhow. (my phone was almost dead so pics probably would not have worked anyhow...)
I did look through my OLD pics the other night and saw how i made the PANS for the bottom, I bent the bottom pans up 3 or 4 inches with a 2" bend out (think top hat shape). I could then have a very smooth bottom 4" up from the sides. The 2" bend OUT then created some reinforcing built into the bottom metal pans. I built one that was 4'x 5' and one that was 2'x5' inside bottom. I have one SEEM weld across the top that was welded flush and there is a cross member under that seem. it was ground smooth for easy dumping.
I placed my spring hangers as far to rear as I could, that way I had the axle as far back and would make more tong weight which I planned on using my 3pt so never had a issue. the dump works great for wood behind the truck this way. Would like to have an independent hyd system for dumping though as the tractor works OK but that is not always there to dump it...
Mark
OP
Hooked_on_HP
Veteran Member
Mark I am kicking arround the idea of using a winch insted of hyraulics so I could hook it up to anything. I have a 3500lb winch. I will give it some thought.
Bill
Bill
Iplayfarmer
Super Member
I'd strongly suggest an electric over hydraulic power pack vs. a winch. Any discussion I've seen of the winch idea gets quite complicated pretty fast. If you already have hydraulics, the power pack is a plug and play deal.
SPIKER
Elite Member
I tend to agree with indyfarmer:
If I could find a 12V hydrapac (motor pump combo) I would look at installing that. dumb thing is I have passed up several 24V versions that were leftovers from old forklifts.
you still need a hyd tank and valve with most of them but even then there are several that run off of 120 volts and used in hydraulic lift tables that come with tanks and valves... I bid on one of those that sold to next highest bidder with the plans that I already have 12 to 120 inverter that is 1400 watts and powers circular saw quite well so should power most of these type hydraulic power packs..
The Winch idea usually is not all that great as there is no real locking mechanism to hold the bed in-place when raising/lowering & transporting. as the winch is only good for applying pressure in one direction. Not to mention that 3500 lbs pull is not all that great. My 4" cylinder can apply two+ times that amount of pressure. You would need near direct lifting from farthest point from the hinge to get a half decent load of gravel up using that winch. basically would need a post up front of the bed to lift the front of the bed up, with a much stronger winch you could build a scissor type mech to work but the pulling forces would be much greater, and would probably need to double line pull to make it work.
Mark
OP
Hooked_on_HP
Veteran Member
I went and picked up my other 2 tires this morning at R&P trailer sales. While I was there I was talking to Paul (the owner) about mounting the axles. He talked me it to letting the center pivot so they could travel further. He also sold me all the mounting brackets, pivots, shackles and bolts & nuts for $24. I couldn't buy the bolts at the hardware store for that much. When I got home I mounted the suspension and tacked it in place. The axles are further apart than I wanted but I will give it a try. They will be easy to move later if I want to.
Bill
Bill
Attachments
SPIKER
Elite Member
Bill :
Looks like you got a deal there. Probably sold them at cost to ya since he sold ya the wheels/tires....
The parts on mine are old mobile home take offs as neighbor friend moves & sets mobile homes for a living , or used to be neighbor as I moved many years ago... Though my axle wheels tires shackle parts & bolts were all free...
he was cleaning out his barn & had a big pile of stuff outside & I stopped by to see what was up. I saw there was a few axles & a bunch of good looking tires/rims that were heading back to the dealers on his next trip to pick up a new home. I asked what he wanted for em, and he said I do stuff for him all time to go ahead grab what ever I wanted out of the pile. Every now and again ya get lucky...Mark
dcyrilc
Elite Member
From what I've always seen, that is the proper way to attach tandom axles. It also puts the rear axle back where I would expect to see it. The work looks great - keep it up!