Oil & Fuel TC33D oil light at low RPMs?

[BigE_]

Here's a few better pictures.

 

[dqdave1]

I think all you have to remove is the large rigid tube to the hydraulic pump ( 3 bolts and an oring; and the hose clamp downstream. You will loose some oil I am sure but after it is off; you should be able to remove relief bolt.

 

[jinman]

I have the exact opposite problem: the buttons all work at home, but only a couple work at work, so I know how it goes.

I got a couple more to work correctly by setting all my security settings to default (from high) and disabling my ad blocker, but I still can't get the formatting buttons to work. (Tools --> Internet Options --> Security)

If that isn't the pressure relief valve, then I don't know where it is. I was looking at the same picture you posted. I'll take a better picture later on today. Found my camera.

Well, I looked at my pressure relief on my TC45D this morning and it is smack dab behind the edge of the hydraulic pump. If I had to remove it, I'd have to remove the whole pump first.

 

[BigE_]

Today is a good day!

While I did manage to get a mouthful of coolant, I also managed to fix the oil pressure problem!

Yep, it was the oil pressure relief valve. Had a tiny bit of metal in it, a bit bigger than a grain of sand, holding it open.

Here's what I had to do to get the pressure relief valve out:
Tools needed: 10mm wrench, 10mm socket, 13mm wrench, 13mm socket, 25mm socket, wobble socket extensions.

Loosen up the upper hydraulic line first

Loosen up the lower hydraulic line next, starting with the upper part. See all the green fluid? Coolant line behind the hydraulic line is in the way. Unless you want to change the coolant, don't remove this line! A very long 1/4" socket extension is required for the back bolt. I used a 9" one.

To remove the oil pressure valve, you need a 25mm wrench. I don't have one, so I used a 1" (25.4mm) wrench instead. Note the wobble extension is absolutely required here. I also removed the oil dipstick tube just to get it out of the way (10mm bolt)

Valve loosened

The offending part, after removing the piece of metal

 

[BigE_]

Got it all put back to gether, filled up the coolant to the proper level with 50% mix of water and coolant, fired 'er up, and reading 55psi at high idle!

Low idle was reading about 40psi, but you are supposed to let it warm up before measuring, so I'm sure it is fine.

Total time required today was just over 2 hours.

Now I just need to put the idiot light back on, add on the loader, and I'll be back in business!

At some point I'm going to run a line from the pressure switch to the dash, but I'm itching for some seat time!

Thanks to everyone for your help on this.

-Steve

 

[BigE_]

Oh, and I can't forget to check the oil after a few hours. I suspect I got some coolant in the oil through the dipstick opening. Looking at yet another oil change.....

Hopefully I got the hydraulic QD leak fixed. Bought some new o-rings and installed one in the leaking connection.

All that's left now is to change out the fuel filter after I get some seat time.

 

[FULLPULL]

Good to see such a easy fix on this . I would change the oil alot better than main bearings .

 

[dqdave1]

What did the piece of metal look like? Casting material, bearing material?

 

[BigE_]

I didn't get a good look at it. It was being held in place by the spring pressure, and it went flying with just a little pressure from my screwdriver. I couldn't find it.

It was rounded, almost like a miniature ball bearing, but it was about the size of a large grain of sand, maybe 1mm in diameter.

Hope it wasn't a bearing, but it was awfully small to be part of one.

 

[jinman]

That is some terrific news. That little piece of stuff may have been in there for a very long time. I don't want to think it was in there from the factory. Surely they checked oil pressure before delivering the tractor.

I'm sure that was a big confidence builder for you. I know I always feel 10 feet tall when I think something through and it turns out that I'm right. You did great!