Test Drive Error

[Nuru]

Bob, I checked my tires and the Rears are 10 pounds, and the fronts are 12-13 pounds, this does seem weird to me as the Rears are "peaked/crowned" in the middle of the tire, instead of flat as I would expect from being below the recommended 14 pounds. The rears are R3's 315x75xD15s (Recs are 14 psi for 1355 pounds), and the fronts are 23x8.50x12 (Recs are 22 psi for 1115 pounds), obviously for loader type work or backhoe work. I still am perplexed by the bounce, since the first easy place to check did not come back positive. The Air seems to be fine.

For the fronts, I am debating wider tires 23x(10 or 12) x12's

And lower tires for the back 26'sx ?x?.

Weights or filling the tires.

Anyone have any Ideas?

Thanks ahead of time

Nuru

 

[JackIL]

Nuru,
Tire Inflation Pressures of 14 psi for 1355 pounds of load means that 14 psi is required if the STATIC load PER REAR tire is 1355 pounds. Your entire tractor doesn't weigh much more than that so you don't need 14 for the tractor as shown in your photographs.

I would caution you not to do anything drastic with regard to changing front and rear tire sizes. Since the front and rear axles are geared together in an MFWD tractor the ratio of the front to rear tire diameters must be maintained as same as they are with your current setup. You for sure can't use smaller diameter rears without simultaneously downsizing the front in the same proportion. Why are you considering this anyway? Another factor is the mid-mount mower. There could be major issues of clearance between tires and mower deck both front and rear (must consider all possibilities of mower raised and lowered and front wheels turned to full stop either way). If you installed smaller diameter tires front and rear you will have less ground clearance with the mower deck raised.

Ballasting the rear will be necessary with a loader. The JD recommendations in the Loader manual indicate the need for ballast BOTH on the rear axle (as cast weights and / or liquid in the tires) and on the 3 point hitch (as a ballast box or implement of appropriate weight.) Ballast on the 3 point hitch is recomended because it decreases the load on the front axle.

 

[Von]

Nuru,Try loading the rear tires, I noticed quite a difference on my tractor in ride with loaded rear tires. Alot less bounce and less need for 4WD on the slopes with the tires loaded. A big help in FEL work as well. If you want to experment just use water at first and if you like it drain some out and add anti-freeze.

 

[RoyJackson]

There are a lot of really interesting comments and possibilities on this thread.
I'll add another...

Nuru, have you driven any other 4100's? The ride you are experiencing may well be typical for that size tractor. It may be your not used to the way the tractor rides.
Before I bought my JD 670, I looked at the 4100 and 4200 series tractors (also looked at and drove my first choice, a Kubota BX2200...I wanted the lower COG for my slopes).
They all have nothing for suspension. I mean they're stiff enough to let you know if a coin on the ground is heads or tails.
Per your pictures you've attached, you have a fair amount of pavement at your home. Drive your tractor around enough to get a good "seat of the pants" feel, then go to your JD dealer and ask to try another 4100...just to see if there is, in fact, any difference.

I bring this point up because I own a '93 Ford Explorer. Others I known with the same vehicle has made comments about the ride of the Explorer. These are trucks...no doubt about it. And they aren't going to ride like a car would (unless one lowers the tire pressure which results in other problems....read the Firestone/Ford debacle).
When I first drove the 670 on the dealer's lot....well, I knew right then this ain't gonna be the most comfy thing I ever drove! And, even with about 40 hours on it, it still feels a bit "tippy" even on a fairly level area (also, my problem...I've had balance problems for many years due to an inner ear condition).
Bottomline is...you just got your tractor. Give yourself some hours to get used to it.
The 4100 is a nice workhorse. You'll be getting years of work out of it.

 

[TerryinMD]

Nuru,

I have a question.

The spare chinch pins are mounted differently than my JD4100. On mine, the spares are mounted on the left (standing behind the tractro) adjustable link. What are yours mounted to??

Maybe a closeup photo will tell all???

Terry

 

[bigpete]

Nuru,

A couple of quick comments. First, I have enjoyed following your posts as you moved to the 4100. I will be going through a similar process within a year so I have learned a lot from your explorations and Q &A. Second, if I recall correctly you are mowing somewhere near an acre and you posted in this thread that you have a sloped lot. My instincts tell me that you would be best suited with a belly mower. As another poster mentioned, the center of gravity is lowered. Also, I think you might find the 3PH finish mower a bit awkward with all of the turns and trimming on a lot your size.

Tidbit: the 54" and 60" decks are both mulcher compatible. I cut four acres with my 445 w/mulching 60 and think I have the best setup for my needs. Just remember that if you use a mulching kit that you will want to always cut less than 30% of the height of the grass. I cut every four or five days during the peak growing season here in the Mid-Atlantic. Even when it gets a little longish, I slow down a bit and the mulcher won't even leave a minor windrow.

Happy New Year!

 

[Nuru]

JackIL; thank yo ufor the response. Yes I am considering a lot of what you said, and actually all of what you stated. The reason I am thinikng of going to the lower set of tires, is because of my units bouncyness. But I will definitely wait until after I purchase the MMM. That may take care of the bounce.

Thanks

nuru

 

[Nuru]

Von, you must have been reading my mind, I thought about loading the tires or using wheel mounted weights. The cost seems to be a toss-up, unless you can get the weights cheaper than most Dealers sell them. I will try it out and let everyone know.

Nuru

 

[Nuru]

Roy, good points and yes I have driven other 4100s, but they were all gear models. which is funny, as they all seemed to be less bouncy on grass. Neither is a problem on paved surfaces. My bounce issue came up on my grass and it kinda startled me, as the GTr225 did not bounce like that when running over the same rock at a higher speed. I think that weighing down the wheels may potentially do the trick. but yes I do need more time on my unit.

Thanks

Nuru

 

[tbarber]

On my 855 I run 20 LBS front and rear. I notice the biggest difference if I reverse the rear tires. With tires set wide it's a lot more stable reverse them, and every little thing feels tipsy. Try putting 8LBS of air front and back, and put the rear tires in the narrow postion you talk about tipsy and bouncy/w3tcompact/icons/shocked.gif
Tom