Think I just tore my clutch out. ford 1520

   / Think I just tore my clutch out. ford 1520
  • Thread Starter
#21  
I've looked,but I haven't seen an inspection hole. Jc, do you know of one on my particular tractor?
I too am hoping thats all it is, is an adjustment issue. Its not in my budget for a 7-900 dollar clutch.
 
   / Think I just tore my clutch out. ford 1520
  • Thread Starter
#22  
Stopped in to a local clutch and brake re builder, looks the bill isn't going to be as bad I I thought, if I need a new clutch that is. 400 for a complete clutch rebuild or 150 for a clutch disc installation.
 
   / Think I just tore my clutch out. ford 1520 #23  
Stopped in to a local clutch and brake re builder, looks the bill isn't going to be as bad I I thought, if I need a new clutch that is. 400 for a complete clutch rebuild or 150 for a clutch disc installation.


So You had a tired clutch? The price is not bad specially if it is dual clutch? Take a pic of the old clutch disk and pressure plate so we can tell what it is. If you have single clutch for sure I'd suggest all new throwout bearing, pilot bearing , disk and pressure plate. Last weekend I changed my son's Mitsubishi eclipse clutch for $100 combined with 16 hrs of pure agonizing pain in the neck sweat equity labor.

JC,
 
   / Think I just tore my clutch out. ford 1520
  • Thread Starter
#24  
So You had a tired clutch? The price is not bad specially if it is dual clutch? Take a pic of the old clutch disk and pressure plate so we can tell what it is. If you have single clutch for sure I'd suggest all new throwout bearing, pilot bearing , disk and pressure plate. Last weekend I changed my son's Mitsubishi eclipse clutch for $100 combined with 16 hrs of pure agonizing pain in the neck sweat equity labor.

JC,
No, I was just checking prices. I didn't want to tear the tractor apart, and not be able to afford a new clutch right away. I can still move the machine right now. Once I tear into it, it won't go back together until it is fixed, and I really don't see anyway around it. I do not see an inspection cover/hole. So the way it appears I'm going to have to split the tractor to see even what was wrong.
I can't even start on it until I get my Moms Honda Accord back together. pulled motor and trans, putting back a new rebuilt short block. So I've still got a ways to go on that yet. Working full time, family duties doesn't allow for alot of extra time during the week. I'll get it though, I'll be sure to post my findings.
 
   / Think I just tore my clutch out. ford 1520 #25  
No, I was just checking prices. I didn't want to tear the tractor apart, and not be able to afford a new clutch right away. I can still move the machine right now. Once I tear into it, it won't go back together until it is fixed, and I really don't see anyway around it. I do not see an inspection cover/hole. So the way it appears I'm going to have to split the tractor to see even what was wrong.
I can't even start on it until I get my Moms Honda Accord back together. pulled motor and trans, putting back a new rebuilt short block. So I've still got a ways to go on that yet. Working full time, family duties doesn't allow for alot of extra time during the week. I'll get it though, I'll be sure to post my findings.

I understand, one thing at a time. If you can put in a short block and do the a valve job on the old head then you're more than capable to do a clutch job on a smallish tractor. Even without inspection hole you can check and adjust throwout bearing to the fingers on the clutch pressure plate. I'd suggest you'd put a clear " witness mark" exactly where it is on on the adjustment clevis for your clutch. Study the mechanism and press the clutch as many time as you need to understand the linkage mechanism. You can adjust it forward and backward knowing where your original witness mark was. if you make it too lose then you can disengage clutch, make to tight and you're riding the finger (don't want to keep it there). A bit of trial and error and you might find the sweet spot where you can disengage the clutch fully without riding the fingers on pressure plate. You might get a few more years used of clutch disk left. All of this would not need a lot of time , expense and tractor split. Those prices are probably for parts only as find it difficult including the labor. You can do fine on buying clutch parts from Fleabay.


JC,
 
   / Think I just tore my clutch out. ford 1520
  • Thread Starter
#26  
I understand, one thing at a time. If you can put in a short block and do the a valve job on the old head then you're more than capable to do a clutch job on a smallish tractor. Even without inspection hole you can check and adjust throwout bearing to the fingers on the clutch pressure plate. I'd suggest you'd put a clear " witness mark" exactly where it is on on the adjustment clevis for your clutch. Study the mechanism and press the clutch as many time as you need to understand the linkage mechanism. You can adjust it forward and backward knowing where your original witness mark was. if you make it too lose then you can disengage clutch, make to tight and you're riding the finger (don't want to keep it there). A bit of trial and error and you might find the sweet spot where you can disengage the clutch fully without riding the fingers on pressure plate. You might get a few more years used of clutch disk left. All of this would not need a lot of time , expense and tractor split. Those prices are probably for parts only as find it difficult including the labor. You can do fine on buying clutch parts from Fleabay.


JC,
Thanks for that bit of advice, I am having difficulty finding any real info on the web. Like everything with this tractor is a secret. Unless I buy the service manual. :) I'll play around with it some more before I actually tear it apart.
Yeah I've been wrenching pretty much ever since I was old enough to hold a screw driver. Its just this is my first tractor I've had to work on, other than my riding mower.
 
   / Think I just tore my clutch out. ford 1520
  • Thread Starter
#27  
Found the inspection hole. LOL, but I have to remove the front loader to get to it.
 
   / Think I just tore my clutch out. ford 1520 #28  
Found the inspection hole. LOL, but I have to remove the front loader to get to it.

Nice, what did you find out by looking inside and manipulating clutch pedal?

JC,
 
   / Think I just tore my clutch out. ford 1520
  • Thread Starter
#29  
Nice, what did you find out by looking inside and manipulating clutch pedal?

JC,
I found I need to replace one of my hydraulic quick connect couplers on my loader in order to remove it. Haven't made to a spot to pick one up yet.
 
   / Think I just tore my clutch out. ford 1520 #30  
I found I need to replace one of my hydraulic quick connect couplers on my loader in order to remove it. Haven't made to a spot to pick one up yet.


What I meant was , what did you find looking thru the inspection hole ? how about your clutch components. ?

JC,
 

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