Think I just tore my clutch out. ford 1520

   / Think I just tore my clutch out. ford 1520
  • Thread Starter
#31  
Yeah sorry I haven't got that far yet. once I seen I need a coupler, I left it as is until I can fully remove the loader. I have to take off the bracket that the loader sets into in order to get to the inspection hole. I ordered one so Its a slow process for me, but I'll get it.
 
   / Think I just tore my clutch out. ford 1520
  • Thread Starter
#32  
You know I didn't even think about leaving the lines hooked up. backing out just far enough to take that bracket off. I haven't been thinking clear at times. Working to much and other drama in my life sometimes clouds my thinking. LOL
 
   / Think I just tore my clutch out. ford 1520 #33  
Yep, It's like me . I always have more targets that I have bullets for. One thing at a time and eventuality you gain on it. You have committed to change the clutch and looking inside the bell housing is just to verify your choice.
Jc,
 
   / Think I just tore my clutch out. ford 1520
  • Thread Starter
#34  
OK, here's an update. I finally got my new hydro coupler. removed front end loader. Heres whats boggles my mind. Now everything seems to be working normally.other than a more than normal pedal movement. I mean I can let the clutch pedal out and when it catches it will almost pull the front end off the ground. Crazy. I removed the inspection plug. about 1 1/4 size hole, from what I can see nothing appears to be broke. This tractor has 2 PTO outputs. one for the rear, and one for a belly mower, that isn't attached. Can having either one of these engaged cause the tractor to feel like its got a bad clutch. In my mind it shouldn't. I'm going to play around with the adjustment some now that its easier to get to with loader off. I check back in on how that whats out for me.
 
   / Think I just tore my clutch out. ford 1520 #35  
Yes it has pedal play. wasn't there when I first got on it today. I was told once that you aren't supposed to free wheel these tractors. I had backed up a hill with a heavy scraper blade in the bucket. When I was going from reverse to 1st, I had my foot on the clutch, and didn't get my foot on the brake fast enough and I coasted down the hill a lil bit. probably like 20 ft. not much at all. I drove over to where I set the scraper blade, dropped it, went to back up thats when I noticed the slop, and problem appeared.
Like I said I am new tractor owner.

With the clutch pushed in and tractor coasting [like downhill] the clutch plate is driven by the trans if youre in gear. If its a low gear the plate will spin very fast and can disintegrate. This can happen instantly with too much speed in a low gear.
larry

OK, here's an update. I finally got my new hydro coupler. removed front end loader. Heres whats boggles my mind. Now everything seems to be working normally.other than a more than normal pedal movement. I mean I can let the clutch pedal out and when it catches it will almost pull the front end off the ground. Crazy. I removed the inspection plug. about 1 1/4 size hole, from what I can see nothing appears to be broke. This tractor has 2 PTO outputs. one for the rear, and one for a belly mower, that isn't attached. Can having either one of these engaged cause the tractor to feel like its got a bad clutch. In my mind it shouldn't. I'm going to play around with the adjustment some now that its easier to get to with loader off. I check back in on how that whats out for me.
Glad for the remission. ... May be false. Sudden appearance of play is a sign of the clutch getting thicker - something that a disintegrating clutch could do by the lining moving. A test you could try is to get going med slo but wide open down a mild incline. Then let off the throttle, push in the clutch for a second or so to let the engine slo, then let the clutch out. This will load the clutch opposite to the normal direction and tend to move the lining [if indeed displaced] back toward its normal position. If it moves things will change and youll notice. If it doesnt youre still in the dim on the cause. :confused3:
larry
 
   / Think I just tore my clutch out. ford 1520
  • Thread Starter
#36  
Glad for the remission. ... May be false. Sudden appearance of play is a sign of the clutch getting thicker - something that a disintegrating clutch could do by the lining moving. A test you could try is to get going med slo but wide open down a mild incline. Then let off the throttle, push in the clutch for a second or so to let the engine slo, then let the clutch out. This will load the clutch opposite to the normal direction and tend to move the lining [if indeed displaced] back toward its normal position. If it moves things will change and youll notice. If it doesnt youre still in the dim on the cause. :confused3:
larry
I'm with you on this one, doesn't make since for a mechanical part to all of sudden to quit working properly and then start working. May since it is working, I'll do some more moving of stuff unitl it quits again. LOL. Hate for my tractor to be out of commission. You realize how much you use it when its broke and cant use it..
 
   / Think I just tore my clutch out. ford 1520 #37  
Barry,

Can you do without using a loader? if so I'd be using it to see if the problems comes back and persist. when You inspected inside of bell housing could you verify single or dual clutch?. All might look good with clutch plate thinning out and potentiality slipping under certain loading. were able to verify visually distance between fingers on pressure plate and the release bearing? as clutch plate gets used up the fingers on the pressure plate rotate outward making them closer to the real ease bearing. On single clutch by rotating the flywheel slightly you can figure out clutch disk thickness by using a paper gauge and comparin git to oem disk.

JC,






 
   / Think I just tore my clutch out. ford 1520
  • Thread Starter
#38  
From what I was able to see its a dual clutch. And to answer your question yes and no I can use it with or without the loader. I have a few things needing done, some I can use my 3 point implements, and the others I need lifting ability of the loader. I'll have to be more cautious of the clutch though.

Again, I am far from new to the wrenches, but am a rookie when it comes to diagnosing a tractor. I'll see If I cant get a pic of what I see looking thru the hole. Not much at all, It looks like the clutch pressure plate an,d such are about 4-5 inches thick combined. SO In my mind that would say to me higher possibilty to a dual clutch setup over a single.

The weather here has been terrible making it hard to get much done. I mean its only rained 2 times this summer. Once for 30 days, and 45 for the next.
 
   / Think I just tore my clutch out. ford 1520 #39  
Barry ,

Take a pic to see if we can decipher. Again, let's just say you are in second gear , pto on and you are slowly moving forward and then you press the clutch 1/2 way, in that fix ,does the tractor comes to a stop while the pto continues running? in a dual clutch jobby you will not see disk thickness like what I pictured on my 1700 above.


JC,
 
   / Think I just tore my clutch out. ford 1520
  • Thread Starter
#40  
I'm 100% sure its a dual clutch. I tried getting a pic but the inspection hole is really to small to get the light and camera angle Just right. I saw 2 disc in there though. its really hard to see the actual thickness of the disc themselves.
 

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