LD1
Epic Contributor
Yes, the valve I listed will work. Its 10GPM. And not too big physically that makes it difficult to fit.
Monoblocks take up less room than a stack type, and fewer places for potential leaks. The downside is, if you have one spool start to leak, you cannot replace just a single spool. But a single spool section for a stack type is ~$100+, and a whole new monoblock valve is ~$200.....I'll stick with a monoblock up fromt.
Also keep in mind that load holding is a function of the quality of the valve. No valve is perfect, but the leakdown rate is better the more money you spend. With my toplink on and my heavy DS96 cutter mounted, The cylinder will drift down at about 1/2" per hour. Which is acceptable by my standards.
As much as I would have liked to have at least two float spools, for both toplink and sidelink, it just wasnt worth doubling the cost of the valve to get it. And I cannot think of one instance where I would want BOTH the top and sidelink cylinders in float at the same time. So for me, when I need side link float, its just a matter of swapping the hoses.
I also added flow controls on all the remotes. They are expensive but I already had them on the shelf. (I get a lot of surplus stuff like this from time to time at auctions, or when the companies I have worked for in the past clear out the stock room of unused parts, or stuff I have bought for other projects and never used, etc). So I can close them off and not have to worry about leakdown through the valve. Similar to how the DPCV TNT cylinders work, but still with the option of float.
Lastly, the mounting bracket I made. I couldnt find anything I liked online to clamp mount the couplers. Are you familiar with two-way sleeve couplers?
Alot of people just mount via the fittings which always require two hands to couple/uncouple. If you are okay with that and dont want breakaway protection, there are easier ways to mount them. But that bracket wasnt hard to do. $40 buys a foot long piece of aluminum, 1" thick and 5" wide. Then all you need is a 1-1/2" drill bit to drill the 6 holes. A 1/2" drill bit to drill the mounting/clamp holes. And a bandsaw to slice them apart.
Most of those couplers also have snapring grooves to "bulkhead" mount them by the sleeve as well. But wasnt sure how rigid that would be trying to couple and uncouple.
Monoblocks take up less room than a stack type, and fewer places for potential leaks. The downside is, if you have one spool start to leak, you cannot replace just a single spool. But a single spool section for a stack type is ~$100+, and a whole new monoblock valve is ~$200.....I'll stick with a monoblock up fromt.
Also keep in mind that load holding is a function of the quality of the valve. No valve is perfect, but the leakdown rate is better the more money you spend. With my toplink on and my heavy DS96 cutter mounted, The cylinder will drift down at about 1/2" per hour. Which is acceptable by my standards.
As much as I would have liked to have at least two float spools, for both toplink and sidelink, it just wasnt worth doubling the cost of the valve to get it. And I cannot think of one instance where I would want BOTH the top and sidelink cylinders in float at the same time. So for me, when I need side link float, its just a matter of swapping the hoses.
I also added flow controls on all the remotes. They are expensive but I already had them on the shelf. (I get a lot of surplus stuff like this from time to time at auctions, or when the companies I have worked for in the past clear out the stock room of unused parts, or stuff I have bought for other projects and never used, etc). So I can close them off and not have to worry about leakdown through the valve. Similar to how the DPCV TNT cylinders work, but still with the option of float.
Lastly, the mounting bracket I made. I couldnt find anything I liked online to clamp mount the couplers. Are you familiar with two-way sleeve couplers?
Alot of people just mount via the fittings which always require two hands to couple/uncouple. If you are okay with that and dont want breakaway protection, there are easier ways to mount them. But that bracket wasnt hard to do. $40 buys a foot long piece of aluminum, 1" thick and 5" wide. Then all you need is a 1-1/2" drill bit to drill the 6 holes. A 1/2" drill bit to drill the mounting/clamp holes. And a bandsaw to slice them apart.
Most of those couplers also have snapring grooves to "bulkhead" mount them by the sleeve as well. But wasnt sure how rigid that would be trying to couple and uncouple.
A picture, or in this case a video would be worth a thousand post's. 