Three point hitch operation

[Triumph79]

Ok, first let me say there is lots of good information on this site, but as yet I cannot locate what I need

I am new to this whole tractor thing. I have a Massey gc2610 tlb. It came with a landscape rake. I tried to put it together the other day and discovered that the top link was missing. I ordered a top link on line that, while it "fits", it is too long to lift the rake. Thru this forum, I discovered that a piece of chain will work, and in fact, I was able to scrape/level my driveway.

My questions are as follows.

How long is the top link supposed to be?

How far should the lift arms pivot, mine do no seem to lift very far although I can get the rake about 4" off the ground?

Where can I get a shorter link. The "standard" is about 17"?

Learning every day.

 

[ericm979]

There's no standard for top link length or 3pt lift arm length for that matter. If your top link is too long, get a shorter one. The link's pin size on the implement end is included in the hitch category standard, i.e. cat 1 or cat 2. That standard defines the pin sizes for the implement end of the top link and lift arms and the spacing between the pins on the implement, though that varies in the standard and varies more in real life.

Top links are common and are available at your dealer or at TSC, AgriSupply, etc.

 

[oosik]

Triumph79 - if the landscape rake lifted 4" off the ground and the top link is too long - - then in all likelihood your 3-point lift arms are raising as far ^UP as they are supposed to. Picture a shorter top link hooked to the tractor and your landscape rake - when you raise this imagined situation all the way up - the landscape rake will be even higher than 4" off the ground. A shorter top link will pull any implement higher as the 3-point arms are lifted.

How long is the top link supposed to be - - well, for your landscape rake. Do this - with the rake on the 3-point - no top link installed - raise the 3-point arms until the rake sits level with the ground. This can be called a neutral position. Now measure from the center of the 3-point attachment hole on the tractor to the center of the top link hole on the rake. Lets say the neutral position gives you a measurement of 25".

Lets say you want a top link with ten(10") inches of travel. So you want a top link that has ten inches of travel and is 25 inches long when its screwed in to its "center" position. Center position for the top link will be - when the top link is 25 inches long - - it can be extended 5" to become 30" long or retracted to become 20" long. That is a 25 inch top link with ten inches of travel.

Chances are that when you make your measurement for length of the top link - there will not be a top link at the store that is that exact length. Getting a top link an inch or two either way will not make that much difference.


Buy the way(BTW) - - welcome to TBN and the forum. Just hang in there - you are doing good. Remember to go slow and be safe.

 

[LD1]

Just a question, but did you have the toplink threaded in so it was as short as it could go?

 

[Triumph79]

I've read your post. My issue seems to be that without a top link installed, I am at Almost the top of the "lift". My question then is, How far should the lower lifing arms travel (bottom to top)? Is my pivot moving as far as it should? Is there an adjustment?

By the way, I used a piece of chain and it seems to work.

 

[TractorGuy]

Your GC2610 has a category 1 hitch. The standard cat1 top link would have a 21-28 inch range.

Do yourself a favor and order a quick hitch from Agri Supply. Theirs come with the top hook that sticks out a little further. You will find you need to adapt your implements to all fit it.

 

[jaxs]

You should have an experienced tractor owner or dealer take a look at what you have before there's an accident. With a chain in place of top link,the implement can easily flip forward and hit you or rear tires. This tractor has remote hydraulics and has likely been equipped with a backhoe and/or front loader,there are several possibilities. Amongest other things,I'm thinking the lift arms are for a hoe and shorter than those for 3 point implements. Stop experimenting and get eyes on help before bad things happen.

 

[TractorGuy]

You should have an experienced tractor owner or dealer take a look at what you have before there's an accident. With a chain in place of top link,the implement can easily flip forward and hit you or rear tires. This tractor has remote hydraulics and has likely been equipped with a backhoe and/or front loader,there are several possibilities. Amongest other things,I'm thinking the lift arms are for a hoe and shorter than those for 3 point implements. Stop experimenting and get eyes on help before bad things happen.

These are good points. I hadn't considered it having a 3pt backhoe. I assumed since he described it as a TLB it would come from the factory with a frame mount.

 

[Triumph79]

My problem seems to be that the top link "yoke" does not lift all the way to the top of its travel point. In this case, the lower arms will not lift high enough to connect to the rake with it sitting level. Hydraulic fluid fills the glass so fluid does not appear to be the problem. I even added a litre.

Any ideas? Is there an adjustment?

 

[ArlyA]

Triumph79, I can't help you with the link qestion, but it is nice to have you here with us! I see you reside on Manitoulin Island. We are on the big lake, just NW of you.

 

[RalphVa]

The top link should not be any longer than your lower lift arms. If so, it'll cause the 3ph to drive the rear end of your implement into the ground. I found this out very readily on my first tractor. They mounted the lift pins on the bush hog in the wrong holes. This caused the top link to project out so that it was longer than the lower lift arms.

If your landscape rake has different positions for the putting the lower lift arms in place, try putting them in the alternative position.

Of course, a chain works, too. I've used a chain in place of the upper link arm on my first bush hog. Of course, the chain won't allow you to lift the back end of the implement very high.

Ralph

 

[davrow]

Any ideas? Is there an adjustment?

I have never heard of our size tractors with a 3 point adjustment, no.

Edit to add: actually, not in the 3 point, but my control lever has adjustable stops (like set screws) that limit lever travel, so indirectly adjust 3 point range of lift.

 

[Gordon Gould]

On most tractors I have seen you can check if the lift arms raise to there full height. Remove your rake. Then set the 3pt lever at the full up position. Grab onto a lift arm and try to lift it higher. If it is at it's max height you will not be able to lift it by hand more than than an inch or two before it hits a stop. There is a feedback lever on most tractors that registers the lift arm height to the lever position. If you can raise it a lot further by hand you may be lucky enough that the feed back lever is adjustable. Incorrect adjustment can cause some real damage. As suggested above have somebody familiar with tractors have a look and give you a hand and some pointers. There are to many variables to give proper instructions.

gg

 

[IceStationZebra]

The geometry of the 3pt pivot points is designed to raise the rear of the implement up higher then the front. Some tractors and implements have more than one top hole to adjust how drastically this happens. If you want more lift in the rear the top link should go in the lowest hole on the tractor, or the highest hole on the implement. If your implement doesn't have a 2nd hole it might be feasible to add another one 2-3" higher.

Sometimes the lift linkage can be adjusted higher/lower or allowed to float on the lower links. I tried to find a clear picture on the internet but came up empty. I saw a suggestion to use a quick hitch - this is generally just a time saver. It pushes the implement back and adds weight so your lifting capacity goes down and the implement will be more likely to hit the ground when you go thru a depression. The one exception is if it has a higher top pin on the tractor side, then see the discussion above.

A couple pics would be worth a thousand words.

ISZ

 

[Gary Fowler]

For a rake, I cant see a chain working for the top link since the top link would be in compression when you are using it. A chain would lift it, but don't attempt to use it with a chain. Already has been posted good info on how to determine the length of top link needed.

Your lift arms left and rights side linkage should be slightly adjustable with at least 2 holes so you can pin the lift arms into the top hole for additional lift or the bottom hole for additional lowering of the arms.

Shortening the top link will cause any implement to be raised higher.

 

[WranglerX]

Something I became aware of but have not needed to take into consideration YET is on my SCUT with 3PH at its lowest position it is 7 inches off ground.... The lift on my 3PH is about 24 inches.... All things considered if the implement I am going to buy and lower hitch pins are say 18 inches off ground when sitting on ground (maybe a mower) I have already lost 11 inches of vertical travel, and my mow deck needs to be 3 inches off ground ... SO my 3PH vertical travel when working is LIMITED to about 10 inches... If top of 3PH is to far back (with or without QH) I am severely limited to how high I can raise rear of implement, so top link of 3PH hitch and any adapter I use is going to severely limit height....

Just a observation but something to consider... When buying rear implements I am going to really consider if lower pins can be even put lower and upper linkage on implimet can be modified to be lower so I can take advantage of limited vertical travel from lower starting point... Then there is going to be the pesky PTO drive shaft to contend with on mower....

Alot of all this is just the geometry of 3PH and those pesky rulers and inches (or millimeters)

EDIT TO ADD:

It occurred to me after initial posting IF I wanted to recover height (short tractor) I could adapt (modify) the QH to move the tractor side of attachment points down there for raising the implement side of QH up recovering some of the height...

Dale

 

[Leejohn]

This is how I did my rake. Then you can get the *** end up. Had to do it for may B7800. BTY that is 1/2" flat stock.

 

[IceStationZebra]

Manufacturers know what the average 3pt linkage will do, but in reality with all the different manufacturers and especially tire size options, they have to make a compromise. Same goes for the PTO - it should be in a certain area relative to the lower link connection points.

The other question that I don't know the answer to, is how well little tractors with class 0 or 1 3pt's meet the ASAE S217 or ISO 730-1 standards. It wouldn't surprise me that they take some liberties due to the limited room.

ISZ

 

[Tx Jim]

Triumph79
Welcome to TBN
I'm not fully understanding your question. Could you please post a photo showing your 3 pt attaching to rake problem? Are you attempting to attach center link before attaching lower arms?

 

[LD48750]

I'm thinking you have a full size Cat 1 landscape rake trying to use it on a SUB compact tractor.

What you need is a rake designed for sub compact tractors or a bigger tractor..

My Compact Ford 1510 will not lift my york rake near as high as my MF50 full sized utility tractor.
I can't imagine trying to work it with something the size of my wife's riding mower.