Tilt cylinder on Top and Tilt leaking down with use

[friendlywithbears]

Hey folks,

I've got a Kubota L6060 with only about 50 hours on it, and finding that my tilt cylinder is leaking down during use such that I need to adjust my tilt cylinder every 5-10 minutes. I realize it's a relatively small cylinder holding some beefy weight, so I'm wondering if this is expected behavior or if I need to investigate either the cylinder having an issue or maybe something with the rear remote valves.

I'm a relative newbie with this stuff so any help would be appreciated. I put so much effort into leveling and still end up with fields with regular gouge marks at 6 foot intervals

Thanks so much,
B.

 

[loggin]

Hey folks,

I've got a Kubota L6060 with only about 50 hours on it, and finding that my tilt cylinder is leaking down during use such that I need to adjust my tilt cylinder every 5-10 minutes. I realize it's a relatively small cylinder holding some beefy weight, so I'm wondering if this is expected behavior or if I need to investigate either the cylinder having an issue or maybe something with the rear remote valves.

I'm a relative newbie with this stuff so any help would be appreciated. I put so much effort into leveling and still end up with fields with regular gouge marks at 6 foot intervals

Thanks so much,
B.

If a hydraulic cylinder is leaking down and there are no external leaks on the cylinder or the lines then it is usually a spool/control valve issue.

I hope this helps!!

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Look at this link, do the tests and you will know for sure.

 

[Tinhack]

Do your T&T cylinders have pilot locks?

Those are the square boxes on the cylinders below (where the lines attach to the cylinders). The cylinders stay locked in place until pressure is applied by the valve.

On such a new tractor, I'd run the cylinders through their complete movement in case there's an air pocket in them.

 

[friendlywithbears]

Look at this link, do the tests and you will know for sure.

As usual, Brian to the rescue. I'm on it and will report back! Based on the four options at the end, is the implication that some control valves just leak beyond expectation and we have to work around it?

 

[friendlywithbears]

Do your T&T cylinders have pilot locks?

Those are the square boxes on the cylinders below (where the lines attach to the cylinders). The cylinders stay locked in place until pressure is applied by the valve.

On such a new tractor, I'd run the cylinders through their complete movement in case there's an air pocket in them.

View attachment 755465

That sounds pretty slick, unfortunately the lines plumb directly into the cylinders.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

It's only "slick" if you do not have or use the float feature with your T&T cylinders.
Most people that make use of the float feature with their T&T cylinders would not be without it, so there are other work arounds.
For those people that do not have or make use of the float feature, it is indeed "slick".

 

[/pine]

On the simple side...you might check if there is any looseness in the valve spool lever...if the nut on the bottom of the spool is loose the return to center spring may not be keeping the spool closed entirely...

 

[friendlywithbears]

It's only "slick" if you do not have or use the float feature with your T&T cylinders.
Most people that make use of the float feature with their T&T cylinders would not be without it, so there are other work arounds.
For those people that do not have or make use of the float feature, it is indeed "slick".

I had that realization, so unfortunately not for me!

 

[friendlywithbears]

Look at this link, do the tests and you will know for sure.

Results:

With everything disconnected from the tractor, there was no movement on either the top or tilt cylinder over the course of an hour.

Hooked up to the tractor:

Top moved from 7.5" to 8" exposed (.5")
Tilt moved from 4.25" to 4.5" exposed (.25")

I saw a lot more dramatic movement on the tilt during mowing in the past, so curious what this tells me and whether it's considered "in spec" and I just need to pay more attention and keep things leveled as I go.

I do also have some pretty bumpy terrain so I'm wondering if the mower bumping around could also overpower the cylinder during mowing?

B.

 

[friendlywithbears]

On the simple side...you might check if there is any looseness in the valve spool lever...if the nut on the bottom of the spool is loose the return to center spring may not be keeping the spool closed entirely...

Would love to check this. Where can I find this to check?

 

[/pine]

If the lever feels loose at all...there is a cap on the bottom of the spool...remove the two screws and inspect...be aware it is a typical maintenance item to periodically inspect under the caps for rust etc as sometimes condensation will build up...some drill weep holes...
A severely rusted spring could be weak...and nuts do have a way of working themselves loose...
good luck...

 

[friendlywithbears]

If the lever feels loose at all...there is a cap on the bottom of the spool...remove the two screws and inspect...be aware it is a typical maintenance item to periodically inspect under the caps for rust etc as sometimes condensation will build up...some drill weep holes...
A severely rusted spring could be weak...and nuts do have a way of working themselves loose...
good luck...

Thanks for the info, will definitely check these out.

 

[BufordBoone]

I had (have) a similar problem Bryan solved it with a valve. When I want to adjust the lift arm or run it in float, I open the valve. When I want it to stay at a particular length, I close the valve.
In my opinion, this is the best/easiest/most economical solution.

 

[friendlywithbears]

I had (have) a similar problem Bryan solved it with a valve. When I want to adjust the lift arm or run it in float, I open the valve. When I want it to stay at a particular length, I close the valve.
In my opinion, this is the best/easiest/most economical solution.

Very interesting, thanks. So basically, the standard rear remote valves Kubota uses just don't hold up to the weight and pressures of 3 pt implement use...

 

[ptsg]

Very interesting, thanks. So basically, the standard rear remote valves Kubota uses just don't hold up to the weight and pressures of 3 pt implement use...

Yes, Kubota remote valves seem to have quite a bit of internal leakage. Lots of threads all over the internet about the same thing. The way I see it, it's way too much leakage and I don't even understand how they get away with it on a brand new overpriced tractor. Some people have even tried to file warranty claim but Kubota keeps refusing it.

Soon, there will be some fanboys trying to defend Kubota with all kinds of theories about internal leakage, but in the end, they just used some crappy valves and really need to step up their game on the remote valves to all least live up to the price they ask.

 

[s219]

I haven't had any leak down issues with the remote valves on my L3200, but the valves used for the Grand L models have been problematic.

 

[Tinhack]

Most people that make use of the float feature with their T&T cylinders would not be without it, so there are other work arounds.

I guess I've never thought of needing it. I sure don't with my blade. I use the T&T to set the angles. I also use it to correct the angle on my flail mower. Not to mention operating a boom. I don't want those angles to change unless I'm ready to change them. I have all the "float" I need in my 3PH.

 

[BeezFun]

My valves leaked down so I added this ball valve right at the valve so I can easily turn it on and off, got it at the local hydraulics place for about $5. I open it when I need to use the valve, close it when I'm mowing or using an implement.

 

[friendlywithbears]

Yes, Kubota remote valves seem to have quite a bit of internal leakage. Lots of threads all over the internet about the same thing. The way I see it, it's way too much leakage and I don't even understand how they get away with it on a brand new overpriced tractor. Some people have even tried to file warranty claim but Kubota keeps refusing it.

Soon, there will be some fanboys trying to defend Kubota with all kinds of theories about internal leakage, but in the end, they just used some crappy valves and really need to step up their game on the remote valves to all least live up to the price they ask.

I haven't had any leak down issues with the remote valves on my L3200, but the valves used for the Grand L models have been problematic.

Wow good to know. I was having trouble finding anything exactly relevant so thanks for the info. Really appreciate the nice "upgrade" as a Grand L owner

I freakin' love all my Kubota products, but I definitely won't defend poor design or implementation decisions! I guess it's on to the resigned work-around phase of life with this particular problem.