Tilt Trailer

Gomez · Feb 9, 2003

I'm looking for a trailer to haul my B2400 around. Basically what I'm looking for is an 16 or 18 foot tandem axle utility trailer.

I stopped at local farm store the other day that has some trailers parked in front for sale. One piqued my interest in that it is a tilt-bed. It's about a year old and they are asking $2200 for it (said it was $3000 new). The only trailers I've ever used had fold down ramps. Will a tilt-bed work as well? It seems like having the tilt-bed would add some more flexibilty to its uses.

Any comments?

Bird · Feb 9, 2003

Personal preference, I suppose, but I like tilt bed trailers, if they're built right.

ronjhall · Feb 9, 2003

Gomez

Trial King makes a full line of tilt trailers. They are well built. Many commercial companies use them to move their equipment around in Southeastern Michigan.

JackIL · Feb 9, 2003

Tilt trailers are fine so long as everything you want to load can be attached to the tractor all at one time--you just drive on and you're done. However, it is not so convenient if you have an extra implement that you want to park in the front of the trailer before going back to get a second implement on the 3 point hitch. You have to secure the first implement so it can't move when the trailer tilts again. If you have several implements it may not be possible to get everything loaded and the load balanced so that you still have the required tongue weight with a tilt trailer. I have had both and my preference is for the trailer with extra loading ramps. My ramps are stored in slides under the back behind the rear wheels. I also have trailer scissors jacks under each back corner of the trailer to prevent the trailer from tipping when it is detatched from the truck and I want to load or unload equipment.

JackIL

Gary_in_Indiana · Feb 9, 2003

I bought a tilt bed with an electric starter style motor that powers hydraulics to tilt the bed and it's been one of the best things I've ever done. For one thing, I hate the idea of horsing around with ramps. With this I not only avoid that problem but also can load something which doesn't line up with ramps like a three wheeler or winch up a motorcycle with a straight pull in the center because I have the full bed width with which to work.

As far as loading smaller items and getting proper balance, tongue weight, etc., I simply leave the bed level and load from the sides. If it's another implement not attached to the 3PH I just chain it to my FEL and drive on that way if I'm taking the tractor, too. In a worst case scenario, it's still no more work than using ramps would be.

Hoeman00 · Feb 9, 2003

If u take multiple attachments like I do( trencher, backhoe,
extra bucket, forks, box blade or rake all at same time)
u will want the fixed deck.
My 20' trailer has fold down ramps and they will slide to
center of trailer plus only takes couple of seconds to drop and
raise them.

Gary_in_Indiana · Feb 9, 2003

Tim,

I like the idea of the ramps which can be used side by side anywhere across the width of the trailer. The ones with which I was familiar weren't that adjustable. They still won't work for a three wheeler or a narrow front tractor unless you have a third ramp but, if you don't have either of those it doesn't matter.

I bet a lot of your and my preferences have to do with what we've used more and with which we've become more comfortable.

Anonymous Poster · Feb 9, 2003

I have a tilt bed trailer that I use to transport various stuff, including a motorcycle and lawn tractor.

Driving something up on it can be tricky. You have to either block it in the tilted position, or be ready to deal with it slamming back down with you and your equipment on board once you cross the balance point. If you don't block it, you need a second person to hold the bed tilted for loading. If you block it, and it has a wood deck which happens to be wet, say from dew or rain, it can be a real interesting ride. /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

The last time I tried to load my motorcycle that way, all I did was slide back down. Since I didn't have anyone around to lend a hand, what should have been a simple job became a monster chore.

If you don't block the bed and have long wheelbase equipment to load, under the right (wrong?) circumstances you may find the bed starts back down before the rear wheel(s) get on board. This can lead to damage or injury.

Tilt beds can also be pain to hang a license plate off of. You can't mount it across the back, unless it has a removable gate, as it will get bent the first time you tilt the bed.

My trailer did not come with a license plate bracket, and I found there was no place to put one on the rear without blocking part of the bed or flattening the plate. I ended up fabricating a mount for the top of the fender. A license plate must be mounted on the rear of the vehicle in some states, although I doubt that many cops would issue a ticket if it wasn't.

I would advise looking carefully at the trailer to see how high the bed is when it tilts--and if it's in your comfort zone. You may also want to consider how much effort it would take to tilt and block the bed with your load in place, should you ever need to do that. A 16 or 18 footer with a tractor on board might require quite a bit of muscle.

You might also want to check out the tongue length. For some reason, most of the tilt beds I have looked at have had short tongues, which makes backing more difficult.

Hope some of this helps.

SnowRidge

MossRoad · Feb 9, 2003

Here's what I use to haul my Power Trac PT425 and attachments:

18' car hauler.
Full steel deck.
3500# axles
stored ramps
stake pockets
electric brakes with breakaway feature
new tires and rims
Crank down jack

The Axles are rated at 3500# each. Since the trailer rests on the axles, you have to subtract the weight of the trailer from the total load capacity. Mine weighs 1500# so I have a usable load rating of 5500#.

Picture 1 Shows the trailer as I bought it.

Picture 2 shows the trailer loaded with my tractor, 60" finish mower, 48" brush hog and Two different sized buckets nested together with a set of pallet forks inside of them. There is still about 4 feet of room at the end of the trailer.

Also, since purchase, I have places 2X12's along the stake pockets in front of the fenders and across the front. I've hauled 2 tons of dirt AND the tractor on the trailer at the same time. I don't know if you could do that with a tilt trailer.

The ramps are about 14 inches wide and store by sliding into pockets under the left rear of the trailer. They can be placed anywhere across the rear of the trailer, from right next to each other to all the way out for full sized cars.

Hope this is usefull information for you. /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

Buster57 · Feb 9, 2003

Hi MossRoad,
That is really a great setup.
How much did thats set you back?
My son and I would love to have a unit like that!

CTyler · Feb 10, 2003

I know were not asking me but I have a 18' car trailer rated for 7000# gross w/brakes. Mine looks similar to his but the tongue on mine looks heavier. The trailer was aprox $1500 w/tax etc.

http://midwesttrailer.uswestdex.com/sales.html

I have a L3130 with FEL and BH. Never thought I'd have a tractor when I bought it several years ago. A 20' trailer would be perfect. To get the ballance correct I need to put the FEL bucket about a foot past the front rail. The trailer also has a dovetail, on the last two feet, that makes it nice to drive onto.

Another thing is that my trailer is Maxed out on wieght. Actually I'm over a couple hundered pounds with the BH attached. My 5500# class III hitch needed load leveling arms to get it to a 8000# rating as well.

Everything was fine for hauling a car, boards etc.. but Holy Cow that tractor stuff ads up in a hurry!!

I'm ok but just barely. Bottom line, try to think ahead.

MossRoad · Feb 10, 2003

The trailer was about $2200.00 and seems to be close to the going rate in Northern Indiana, +- a few hundred. It works for me and I like it very much.

Here's another picture although it is very far away, you can almost make out the 2X12s on the front half.

rdbrumfield · Feb 10, 2003

You folks are paying just about double what they are out here.
I build my own and I prefer tilt flatbeds so they can be loaded from the sides with forks without the fenders in the way. My cost is around 700 for a three axle tilt deck flatbed 20X7'6" I haul a 5300 JD with fel and any attach on 3pt, my 350C JD crawler or the Kubota excavator on it without a problem. Is set up with a 25/16 ball easy hitch so I can pull with the 1ton or the dump truck.

rdln · Feb 10, 2003

Randall, can you please describe how you "acquire" the components to build such a trailer for $700, just curious.

Anonymous Poster · Feb 10, 2003

Better yet...

You don't have to tell me!

Will you build me one?

/forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif/forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

Gary_in_Indiana · Feb 10, 2003

Snowridge,

I might suggest you consider putting hydraulics on your bed. That way it'll tilt itself and hold there until you let it down. Mine works great that way and I can load anything by myself and don't have the safety concerns you must.

Also, I've got a great aid for loading a motorcycle. Build yourself a little stand for your bike. A piece of channel wide enough for your front tire open on one end and with another piece up at an angle to act as a stop. Set about a 6' cross piece under that. Casters go on either end of that and under either outside edge of the ramp. The bigger the casters, the better.

Roll the front wheel of your bike onto the ramp and secure it there. Straps from the handlebars to the outriggers will stabilize your bike. Now you can load it without worrying about it tipping. Personally, I like just using my winch to load this set up. I run a strap from the rear wheel to tie downs at about 45 degrees and just lock it tight with the winch and add a safety chain in front.

I hope I've explained this well enough. Just use some eye bolts for your attachment points on your motorcycle dolly and you'll be good to go. I hope this helps. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

DK35vince · Feb 10, 2003

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Randall, can you please describe how you "acquire" the components to build such a trailer for $700, just curious. )</font>

I have the same question,on a three axle trailer I'd have that much or more in axles w/brakes,springs ,wheels and tires.

rdbrumfield · Feb 10, 2003

I have built several for some of the locals for around the 1100-1200 mark.
They were two axle tiltdeck flatbeds.
I use mobile home axles that you can pick up fairly reasonably, they're rated at 6000lbs. Two lengths of 2X6 rectangular tubing one 2X4X3/16 for stake pockets and some 1/4 angle for cross members 2 or 3", and one 5" channel, 2 3/8X31/2 flat bar and your in business.

rdbrumfield · Feb 10, 2003

I later stuck in the 3rd axle when I started to haul the dozer.

MossRoad · Feb 10, 2003

DOT approval and product liability included with that?

Just kidding /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

I priced out the stuff I needed to build one myself, and it would have been a little over $1000.00 and lots of man hours that I didn't have. The side height of the deck is only about 20" high, and if you look at the picture that I posted, all of the implements are facing the sides(another plus for the Power Trac quick attach system, no forks required to load and unload implements). I found the price of the trailer just right. /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif