Time to build more Horse Pasture Fence - How do/did/would YOU handle a curved fence?

[MossflowerWoods]

Gals and Gents,

I'm almost ready to start adding pasture area and that means building more fence.

Here is a shot of my current fence http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...se-pasture-fencing-advice-20.html#post2651465

I'm using 7' PT 1/2 round posts and 1.25" x 8" x 16' poplar fence boards. Posts every 8', and I stagger or offset the boards. I used full round posts for gates, and corners, and all the posts are "Outside" the pasture except in the corners.

Here is the real question. the next section is NOT straight. I will follow along the driveway loop and make a long sweeping curve to the treeline.

I want to keep the "look" and my current fence is VERY stable.

How have you done this on your fence, or how would you do it differently the next time.

After a few posts on this thread I will discuss how I've been thinking about doing it.

I want to hear from you guys and get some of that awesome TBN advice...

Thanks in advance,
David

 

[Larry Caldwell]

Board fence will work. If you stretch wire, stretch it on the outside of the curve or it will pull the fence apart. If you want picturesque, switch to split rail. Get a long 1/2" bit, hog a hole and drive rebar at the joints. It will stand until the wood rots out.

 

[Western]

David, the fence looks awesome!
On the radius, I would shorten the line post distance and continue with the scheme your using. If your at say 10' between post, cut it to 5' and use shorter runners, the tighter the turn the closer the line post.

 

[MossflowerWoods]

David, the fence looks awesome!
On the radius, I would shorten the line post distance and continue with the scheme your using. If your at say 10' between post, cut it to 5' and use shorter runners, the tighter the turn the closer the line post.

Dennis,

I'm doing 8' centers now, and I'd REALLY like to keep doing so, I think it is a gradual enough curve I can continue offset 16' boards. I'll bo-jack them and nail em down HARD with my big framing gun.

I was really trying to find out if the boards should be INSIDE the curve or Outside, and I believe I will attempt keeping them inside as the rest of the fence has.

Thanks for the kind words. This is only my 2nd fence. I once built 6' dog eared cedar fence for my 2nd house 20 years ago. This was my first horse fence ever...

David

 

[joshuabardwell]

I was really trying to find out if the boards should be INSIDE the curve or Outside, and I believe I will attempt keeping them inside as the rest of the fence has.

There is a fence similar to that on my property. The boards are all on the same side of the posts, all the way around--the inside.

 

[dieselbeef]

fergit nailing it..long galv deck screws...nails will come loose or fall out over time..serious board fence has always been built with screws...galv or plated

 

[MossflowerWoods]

fergit nailing it..long galv deck screws...nails will come loose or fall out over time..serious board fence has always been built with screws...galv or plated

Not wanting to start a feud here sir. But long ago, an a thread far, far away, I was convinced to move to nails due to shear strength. I'm running 3" x .120" extarior galv ring shank round head nails and a new Rigid framing nailer. I'm nailing each board to each post, 3 times minimum (not in straight line except ends.

I have been using deckscrews to build EVERYTHING for over 20 years, but the arguments were flying here on TBN when I first got started and I became convinced.

The fence I built in Nov-Dec last year is solid as a rock... so far.

I might add some honking big coated outdoor deck screws to the cureve area just for extra hold though...

David

 

[dieselbeef]

well id be surprised but i always use screws..nieghbor used nails..tho i dont know what kind..his boards are always fallin off..mine aint never

interesting tho..got a link id like to read it...

 

[tow653]

Nails have better shear strength,screws better holding strength,use a few of each on each board.

 

[Western]

Having the boards on the inside, may help hide the joint and possibly help with the "illusion" of "round" (I would think.) Of course the tighter the corner, the more frustrated it may appear.

I have used per-drilled (smaller) holes with a dab of wood glue to help hold screws and nails, but don't know if I'd want to go to all the trouble on a job that big.

 

[dieselbeef]

naturally the board or wire goes on the animal side..unless its purely aestetic

 

[MossflowerWoods]

naturally the board or wire goes on the animal side..unless its purely aestetic

Exactly. So when the horses lean on it they are not popping out the nails...

 

[drssg]

I have a fair amount of fence that is about ten years old and I used almost exactly the same materials that you used. I also used a framing nailer with very similar galvanized ring shank nails. I have found that some of the nails tend to work loose over time. I've even had several where the board is still in place, but the nail has come out about an inch. I have periodically replaced loose nails with screws. The nailer is so much faster than using screws, so I'm not sure what I'd use if I was starting over.

With the boards on the inside, I would keep an eye out for nail heads working loose. If the horse is running the fence line, that could create a nasty injury.

Your fence looks good!

 

[RobertBrown]

galv ring shank round head nails

That's what I use...there is no getting one of those nails out of a 6" PT post, not with out vise grips and some patience.
The nails will pull through the boards before they come out of the post.
I don't know much about horses...other than I prefer to keep a fence between me and the nearest one....I thought your were supposed to use creosote boards with horses. I heard that they will chew up regular fence boards.

 

[Sawdustsmb]

A small electric fence wire between rails works wonders teaching horses fence respect.

Bob

 

[MossflowerWoods]

That's what I use...there is no getting one of those nails out of a 6" PT post, not with out vise grips and some patience.
The nails will pull through the boards before they come out of the post.
I don't know much about horses...other than I prefer to keep a fence between me and the nearest one....I thought your were supposed to use creosote boards with horses. I heard that they will chew up regular fence boards.

Robert,

On the few times I goofed building the fence, yes I had to pull the head thru the board, was NOT coming out...

Some horses are "cribbers" who chew wood. Not mine though.

Be well,
David

 

[MossflowerWoods]

Time to build more Horse Pasture Fence - How do/did/would YOU handle a curved fence

Update - I've been planning this out and measuring and prepping the ground along the fence line so I decided it is time to bring this thread back and get more specific advice.

This run will be ~280 feet long, and really it is the ~56' that is curved that I am the most concerned about.

This batch of pics is from Thursday 7/5/12, I think of them as "before".

The first picture, I was standing on the fender of my tractor to get an ariel shot, and clearly it was HOT and that distorted the picture, but it shows the degree of the curve from the North perspective. The second shows the entire run looking South. The 3rd pic is a closer look at the curve from the south.

I will have a straight section 112 feet, then the 56' of curved fence, then another straight 112 feet. I need to put a gate in, at least an 8', and I am considering putting it on a portion of the curved section just for easy access for vehicles.

This gives you a view of what I am facing here.

Thanks in advance,
David

 

[MossflowerWoods]

Friday, 7/6/12 I ground ~23 and in general cleaned up the fence line area. One of the things I did was fill in the ridiculous rain ditch he had dug. the road is basically flat and there is NEVER water in it, it just followed a incnsistent line and was a impediment to entry to the field. I could tell that he had just dug it with his backhoe, and piled the dirt on the inside, because of the way it broke up when I was cleaning it up. Now it is level and smooth. I will set the fence a consistent 2-3' inside (just leave a strip to mow between the fence and the driveway).

I think of these pics as "Current"

First is another time standing on the tractor NOT over the canopy, so less heat distortion, but a similar shot of the curve while facing North. 2nd is ground level facing North.

Just a point here. I am going to build a 40' x 40' "Night Pasture" with Run-in shed first, so the first 40' will be square with the other fence, then I will have a slight angle and run ~72 feel close to straight, and then enter the curved section of fence.

Pic 3 is about the apex of the curve, looking West, and at the Y in my driveway, close to where I am considering an 8' gate.

Pic 4 is trying to capture the entire run from a SE perspective showing the current fence etc. The last section does begin to slope down, but is not steep.

This is what I have as of yesterday.

Let 'er rip guys!
What do you think?

Thanks in advance.
David

 

[ScottyChip]

David, I agree with most of the other posters, keep going as you have been doing. Oh! by the way great job on the fence so far and nice property. When it comes to the curved section you will need to shorten the distance between your posts to make a nice curve. I know you are trying to keep the same spacing between posts and but by changing the distance between them to make the curve will not affect the look of your fence because it will still be the samee post and rail. You will still have a real nice looking fence.
Keep going it looks great. I agree with use of nails, I had screws in my fence and with the weight of the snow on it in the winter they just shear clean off. With nails they may pull and then bend allowing me to straighten and reuse in the spring.

 

[MossflowerWoods]

Oh! by the way great job on the fence so far and nice property. When it comes to the curved section you will need to shorten the distance between your posts to make a nice curve.

ScottyChip,

I thank you for the kind words and good advice.

Be well,
David