Tire chain damage

[Gamemaster]

I have never used chains before, received my set of rear chains and spring tensioners ( tirechains.com 2-link ladder)) for my 13.6-16 turfs. I put them on , but they seem a little crooked , looking at the view from the rim, but seem pretty snug. My main question is: Do loose chains damage the tire?. or can you ride on loose chains as long as they are not hitting the tractor anywhere?. I not sure how tight or loose chains need to be?. I figure tight as
possible and how much slop is acceptable?.

 

[Casco1]

I just bought a set of chains today for my Kubota. The guy at the store said the rears should be as tight as possible, the fronts a bit loose. Because of steering a looser tire chain will give when the tire turns. He said to put the fronts on as tight as you can and not use stretchers this will leave enough play.

 

[Thomas]

I have always run tight chains,if to loosen chain link can cause wear on the links,plus if you should get stuck and spin the tires chain could roll off. ;(

 

[Casco1]

I have always run tight chains,if to loosen chain link can cause wear on the links,plus if you should get stuck and spin the tires chain could roll off. ;(

I agree with you, I was surprised at the advice, but he didn't say loose he said just loose enough to be able to squeeze your hand under the cross chain. I'm thinking I see his point if the chain is tight and you turn with the chain making ground contact it may tear up the tire. If there is a little play the chain could move a little and maybe save the tire. As far as wear on the links, these things are big. The cross chains are grade 70.

I noticed you're from NH, I bought the chains at B&B Chain
a division of Chappel Tractor in Milford so I think I'll try it and see. They have more knowhow than me, hopefully.

 

[MadReferee]

Chains should be tight. With R4's they tend to be a little loose and some parts of the chain will slip between the treads. With turf tires, I definitely would make them as tight as possible. As you can see in the picture, they do tend to move a little with R4's. What you don't want is for the chains to be flopping around. They will stretch a bit after the first year too.

Yes, the BB Chain guys know their business.

 

[john_bud]

For R4's you actually want the cross chain to have some flop to it. Not much, but some. They won't shed mud otherwise.

 

[JoeL4330]

Tight is right. Don't understand the advice about the front. If you need chains for traction--say, on ice--then if the tire turns (that is, "yaws") and the chain doesn't, how would the tractor turn? I have turf, run chains, and the tighter they are, the better they perform: better body clearance, traction, turning, chain life, and tire life.

Check out installation info on any chain web site (e.g., tirechains.com). Instruction always are, put 'em on tight, drive a short distance and retighten. If you check Bailey's forestry site, along with log skidder chains (the real big boys) they sell two types of chain tightening tools, one a jack-like tool, the other a screw type. ...tirechains.com sells them too, along with small chain binders to help you get those big ole chain tighteners on tight.

 

[Thomas]

but he didn't say loose he said just loose enough to be able to squeeze your hand under the cross chain..

I was thinking in the lines of off the lawn and driveway,when one ventures into rough area w/roots & limbs & branches etc.,for loose tire chain about width hand good way snag fallen branch etc. and the next you know it could be trying to slap you or dent the fenders.

Another way for tight fit....let little air out of the tire,install tire chain,blow tire back to setting psi.

 

[JoeL4330]

Airing down to put chains on and then airing up to make them tight is the one thing universally discouraged.

 

[Gamemaster]

Educate me, why is airing up/down discouraged?

 

[JoeL4330]

Hmmmm...I tried to find an authoritative source for "why" ...none of the web sites that provide installation instructions suggest airing up-down, and this one http://www.partsamerica.com/MaintenanceTireChainsRules.aspx?PA_Portal_Id=advance-auto says it's a no-no, but not why

This site AUTOS & BOATS : Tires : Selecting and Installing Tire Chains : DIY Network does say that "...If you can slip your hand between the tire and the chain, under a cross chain or a side chain, then the chains are too loose."

This site is a tiny bit more explanatory 4chains "...Some of the old timers used to recommend deflating tires to install tire chains and then pumping them up again. I don't recommend this, it puts a tremendous load on the chains. Your tires should be normal pressure."

Here's what TireRack Winter Tech - Tire Chains for Winter Use at The Tire Rack. has to say: "Buy chains that are the correct size for the tires. A proper fit is key to receiving the desired performance and durability. Do not deflate tires to install tire chains. A correctly sized tire chain will fit over a properly inflated tire. Additionally, because there is typically no source of compressed air to refill a deflated tire, driving with low tire pressure may cause permanent damage to the tire. Snow chains may not be available for all tire sizes."

As I say, no one recommends airing up-down. Now, I must confess that I (an old timer) have done it--small amount of deflation, tighten, then back up to recommended pressure--and it puts quite a strain on the chains. It is the side chains that "feel the pressure" and they are the "weak link" ...often smaller and not hardened. More importantly, the fastener is probably weakest point of all and I suspect I could be aggressive enough to send it flyin'--like a piece of shrapnel ...but, I guess I won't try it. Note that that small amount of tire pressure in your tire is enough to lift the vehicle, of course.

 

[john_bud]

Tight is right. Don't understand the advice about the front. If you need chains for traction--say, on ice--then if the tire turns (that is, "yaws") and the chain doesn't, how would the tractor turn? I have turf, run chains, and the tighter they are, the better they perform: better body clearance, traction, turning, chain life, and tire life.

Check out installation info on any chain web site (e.g., tirechains.com). Instruction always are, put 'em on tight, drive a short distance and retighten. If you check Bailey's forestry site, along with log skidder chains (the real big boys) they sell two types of chain tightening tools, one a jack-like tool, the other a screw type. ...tirechains.com sells them too, along with small chain binders to help you get those big ole chain tighteners on tight.

Your advice is correct for turf tires, not for R4's. If the chains are so tight that they don't move at all, mud, ice snow and debris will build up under the chain and not get out. Soon, it will behave nearly the same as having no chains at all.

Your own posts state that if you can slip your HAND under the chain it is too loose. A finger is not a hand and is about the correct tension. Start with a pinky and when the chains loosen up so you can just about slip your hand, tighten them up another link.

 

[1948berg]

This thread is too much theory. Put the chains on, if you can drive without the chains banging into the fenders, its OK.
I love the sound of chains grippinig and scratching into hard ice!

 

[MadReferee]

My chains on R4's are fairly tight and it's difficult, if not impossible, to even slip a finger under them. However, the chains do move/slide on the tire. As long as the chain can move/slide on the tire you will have no problem. I never have after 4 years of use with 2-link ladder chains and R4's.

 

[scott_vt]

This thread is too much theory. Put the chains on, if you can drive without the chains banging into the fenders, its OK.

Mornin Gunnar,
Well stated, just put them on and evaluate how they work, then go from there ! Amen !

 

[Catman1]

My new tractor (Kubota M series) is coming with R4's all around (4WD). The rears will get chains but what about the fronts. They have limited slip differential and I was wondering should I chain the fronts also?

I plan to use the Duo-ladder V-bars from tirechains.com.

 

[Farwell]

A loose chain can be adjusted with a high speed steel hacksaw blade. My chains came with about 12 inches extra chain on each side. I put the chains on, drove on them for a while, checked the tightness and cut the extra chain off. I put several bungee cords on the chains on the outside of the wheel. The chains have worked great. My chains are not hardened steel and will not last as long as the hardened ones but they will last long enough for my needs.
David B

 

[Jstpssng]

A loose chain can be adjusted with a high speed steel hacksaw blade. My chains came with about 12 inches extra chain on each side. I put the chains on, drove on them for a while, checked the tightness and cut the extra chain off. I put several bungee cords on the chains on the outside of the wheel. The chains have worked great. My chains are not hardened steel and will not last as long as the hardened ones but they will last long enough for my needs.
David B

I usually put them on as tightly as possible, drive forward 1 revolution, then retighten. I've logged many miles in pickups in deep snow and ice this way at 25-35 MPH without problems, and use the same technichue for my tractor.


JMHO, but if the chains are the proper size tensioners aren't necessary. The first time I used them they fell off, and I never replaced them.

 

[JoeL4330]

My new tractor (Kubota M series) is coming with R4's all around (4WD). The rears will get chains but what about the fronts. They have limited slip differential and I was wondering should I chain the fronts also?QUOTE]

Well, here are my reasons for doin' so: ice ...wanna' steer on it; added traction ...you can seldom have too much; goin' down steep (icy) grade with weight in the front (in the FEL) the rear tires want to unload, so the only real braking is engine braking in the front (making sure you were in 4WD); they are easy to put on...comparatively light and I can raise the front with the FEL; they are comparatively cheap. ...so, why not?

 

[SPYDERLK]

For R4's you actually want the cross chain to have some flop to it. Not much, but some. They won't shed mud otherwise.

I have no experience, but I agree with this. I also think chains should slip incrementaly on the tire to prevent concentrated wear points at the chain crossovers.
larry