TN65s won,t move forward or reverse

[mahlers]

Hi Ryan,
I got the H HMENU button thing wrong first, too... I learned pretty quick that you need to hold that HHMENU button down when turning the key - otherwise you get a "NO COMM." error. What happened on mine is the HHMENU button worked just fine - but when I'd get to places where I needed to scroll up and down through channels (using the "up" and "down" buttons), it wouldn't scroll. At first, I thought it was the controller because one of the things you can do is clear a code (in the HF menu) by holding the "down" button until you get an "ERASING" message. I held the "down" button for a few minutes, and nothing happened. From there, I went into the calibration and status menus, and realized that I couldn't scroll through the various channels that the manual said I should be able to scroll through (using the "up" and "down" buttons). I tried the device on another tractor, and it was the same thing - so I sent it back. I'm hoping I can just clear the error code and see if anything changes - otherwise I'll get a new controller and use the tool to reprogram it.

It sounds like something inside your tractor's transmission may have indeed broken. Bummer... Hopefully you can get it working again soon!

 

[DRB at SAGC]

UPDATE

I spent the last couple of days removing the operators platform, 4wd drive shaft and disconnecting the super steer from the transmission case so that transmission could be split from the engine. Once the transmission was pulled back from the engine the engine coupler plate damper springs had all fallen out. The engine was not connected to the transmission. The mechanic that came out to help me was right with the engine damper being the problem.

Looks like the electrical diagnostic equipment on my tractor was working properly. It is so easy to jump to a conclusion that it is an electrical problem especially when the mechanical break in not easily seen.

I am still not sure how the ECM could have detected that the input shaft was not spinning?

Ryan

 

[RickB]

UPDATE

I spent the last couple of days removing the operators platform, 4wd drive shaft and disconnecting the super steer from the transmission case so that transmission could be split from the engine. Once the transmission was pulled back from the engine the engine coupler plate damper springs had all fallen out. The engine was not connected to the transmission. The mechanic that came out to help me was right with the engine damper being the problem.

Looks like the electrical diagnostic equipment on my tractor was working properly. It is so easy to jump to a conclusion that it is an electrical problem especially when the mechanical break in not easily seen.

I am still not sure how the ECM could have detected that the input shaft was not spinning?

Ryan

The clutches locked completely without loading the engine; therefore the current value sent to the PWM solenoids during calibration attempts rose out of range.

 

[DRB at SAGC]

The clutches locked completely without loading the engine; therefore the current value sent to the PWM solenoids during calibration attempts rose out of range.

I could see this being the case but my hydraulic pressure gauge would not have a pressure reading from the A or B pressure check ports?

Ryan

 

[DRB at SAGC]

**** UPDATE ****

I split the tractor to inspect the engine to transmission coupler. I found that all the springs in the coupler had broken and fallen out allowing the coupler plate to spin freely not connected to the engine. I also found that the PTO clutch pressure plate springs were broken and fallen of as well.

I replaced the clutch pressure plate and engine coupler assembly, through out bearing, through out bearing collar and PTO shaft as it had wear on splines. I also removed the super steer front axle as it had to be partly removed to split the tractor. New bushings, pins & upper ball joint wear replaced.

After the tractor was all put back together I was able to calibrate the A and B clutches as per the manual. The tractor now operates as normal.

All work preformed took about 30 hours labor and $2500 in parts before tax.

Hope this thread helps someone in the future.

Ryan

 

[mahlers]

Wow, that's a lot of work! Good job on getting it figured out.

 

[lectricgenius]

**** UPDATE ****

I split the tractor to inspect the engine to transmission coupler. I found that all the springs in the coupler had broken and fallen out allowing the coupler plate to spin freely not connected to the engine. I also found that the PTO clutch pressure plate springs were broken and fallen of as well.

I replaced the clutch pressure plate and engine coupler assembly, through out bearing, through out bearing collar and PTO shaft as it had wear on splines. I also removed the super steer front axle as it had to be partly removed to split the tractor. New bushings, pins & upper ball joint wear replaced.

After the tractor was all put back together I was able to calibrate the A and B clutches as per the manual. The tractor now operates as normal.

All work preformed took about 30 hours labor and $2500 in parts before tax.

Hope this thread helps someone in the future.

Ryan

Out of courosity where did you get your code reader from? I have looked about everywhere for one myself but every one that I have saw was like $1-2K! Any info/help you could lend me on this subject is greatly appreciated.

 

[DRB at SAGC]

I bought my diagnostic tool from the New Holland dealer we bought the tractor from. It looks like I paid under $250 for the diagnostic tool in 2003. I can't imagine that it would be over $1000 now. Call a couple of different dealers in your area and have them give you a price and a part number so you know that they are pricing the same thing.

Ryan

 

[OnekamaFarmer]

This thread was much appreciated as my Tn75S is exhibiting similar symptoms. Won't move forward or backward, pto works fine. No trouble codes though. Started after moving snow yesterday, the tractor no longer shifts.

Most worrisime symptom is lack of gear grinding without the clutch engaged. It is almost as if the clutch is activated 100% of the time.

Funny thing just a few minutes before shifting went out the temp gauge was acting screwy, it was pegged out almost a 5 oclock position, way past the uppermost temp at about 1-2 oclock position. Temp had just started working normally again when I was pushing snow into large pile. Lifted and dumped bucket, went to reverse with shuttle lever and nothing happened. Temp reading probably not related but thought I would mention it.

Any thoughts are appreciated on how this might be different or the same from this tn65 thread. It sounds eerily familiar.

Thanks

 

[DRB at SAGC]

When you say your tractor no longer shift do you mean that it won't go forward or reverse with the shuttle shift?

This sounds like what happened to my tractor. Its been good ever since I did the repairs in 2012.

Here is a link to the New Holland parts break down of the clutch just check to see that it is the right serial number for you tractor.

Official New Holland Online Parts Store and Online Parts Catalog for New Holland and Ford Tractors.

If you have any questions ask away.

Ryan