To paint or not to paint - I need painting advice for dummies

[crowbar032]

I waffled back and forth on which sub-forum to post this question....parts/repairs seemed the most logical.

Ever have one of "those" projects that keep going. It started with a miss in the MF150, which led to a valve job, which led to replacing the plastic nose, which led me to the question of a re-paint (might as well get a new seat while I'm at it and fix the gas gauge, gonna need some brakes here soon too). Apparently in 1968, MF decided to put a plastic nose cone on these tractors. Some 46 years later, the plastic is brittle and cracked (plus I broke a chunk off of it getting a bolt out). I finally tracked down a metal replacement. It comes primed (red) and ready to paint. Now I don't have anything against Rudolph, but I don't want my tractor to look like him by putting a shiny new red nose on an also faded out red hood. I'm trying to decide if I want to tackle painting the hood, fenders and nose myself. I have no sanding/sand blasting or paint tools and equipment so think HarborFreight for recommendations as I hope to never do this again. Sandblast first or clean well and start painting? Primer first, then finish? What type of gun gravity or suction? What size nozzle on the spray gun 1, 1.3, 1.8? What type of paint? Hardener? Clearcoat?

I suspect opinions to be all over the place, I'm just looking for a "painting 101 for dummies." I'm not looking to win any show ribbons, just get it where it looks decent and fend off some rust.

 

[troutsqueezer]

There are a few things to consider when painting your tractor. Ask 10 forum members and you will get 11 different answers. Rather than type mine out I'll just give you the link to my B21 page where I discuss what technique I used to restore it.

B21

 

[crowbar032]

There are a few things to consider when painting your tractor. Ask 10 forum members and you will get 11 different answers. Rather than type mine out I'll just give you the link to my B21 page where I discuss what technique I used to restore it.

B21

Good info, thanks. I didn't see anything about what you used or why you decided to sand down the hood.

 

[troutsqueezer]

Good info, thanks. I didn't see anything about what you used or why you decided to sand down the hood.

Are you asking about the equipment I used or the paint and reducer? I thought I had mentioned both. Feel free to ask.

I had to sand down the hood because there was a big dent put there by the previous owner and I had to knock it out (thanks Harbor Freight for the inexpensive body kit). After I tried to paint it the first time, I didn't know what I was doing and the paint curled. Had to do some research to see what I was doing wrong. The easiest way to remove the old paint and smooth the dent was by using a flap disk.

 

[crowbar032]

Are you asking about the equipment I used or the paint and reducer? I thought I had mentioned both. Feel free to ask.

I had to sand down the hood because there was a big dent put there by the previous owner and I had to knock it out (thanks Harbor Freight for the inexpensive body kit). After I tried to paint it the first time, I didn't know what I was doing and the paint curled. Had to do some research to see what I was doing wrong. The easiest way to remove the old paint and smooth the dent was by using a flap disk.

The equipment to sand. I've been looking at sand blasters is the reason I asked. The paint mix/formula will draw lots of opinions with hardners/lacquer/clear cote not to mention epoxy paint or something else.

 

[nc redneck]

I would take it to local body shop. Due to the last few years with consolidation in the trade they are probably starving for work. I would bet you could get it done for less than cost of materials. 3 to 4 hundred. IMO

 

[Soundguy]

if you take your time .. harbor freight 20ish dollar paint guns can make some decent looking tractors

 

[crowbar032]

I would take it to local body shop. Due to the last few years with consolidation in the trade they are probably starving for work. I would bet you could get it done for less than cost of materials. 3 to 4 hundred. IMO

I've got some feelers out to see if anyone is interested.

 

[Mike476]

Painted my MF 135 with a gun from a $40 Canadian Tire HVLP set (comes with a paint and touch up gun / regulators for each and all the accessories) outside in my driveway on a calm day in June. You will need to have access to air obviously if you don't have your own compressor.

Took everything off the tractor to paint, did it on sawhorses. I had some base / clear left after painting my 2004 Ram Poppy Red so I put it to good use. Pretty close to original colour. Silver was two cans high heat Duplicolour from Canadian Tire, didn't come in grey.



Depending on the extent of repairs (whether you have cracks to weld or patches to install due to corrosion etc) all other tools are ones you likely already have (grinder, 1/4 sheet sander etc). Not like there is a lot of surface to work, and as you say you're not looking to win ribbons, but at the end of the day you're obviously looking for something more than a roller and drop cloth will provide as well. I've got to say I've seen some nice looking jobs from just rattle can paint jobs for that matter. I worked in my fathers' body shop as a young man so I chose to spray mine.

Several options out there for you to consider, the real question is how much time, money and effort do you want to put in it.

Good luck. :thumbsup:

 

[sixdogs]

I would take it to local body shop. Due to the last few years with consolidation in the trade they are probably starving for work. I would bet you could get it done for less than cost of materials. 3 to 4 hundred. IMO

Great idea. By the time you do the learning curve you will spend plenty and probably not have a satisfactory job. Pay whatever it costs and then start learning on your own for the next job.

 

[sixdogs]

There are a few things to consider when painting your tractor. Ask 10 forum members and you will get 11 different answers. Rather than type mine out I'll just give you the link to my B21 page where I discuss what technique I used to restore it.

B21

Wow--that's a great link and a terrific effort on your part. Congratulations.

 

[Soundguy]

deffinately x+1 answeres where x is the membership.

 

[nc redneck]

If you do end up painting yourself I second recommendation above. Get a HVLP gun ( it has paint cup above gun ) cost is about the same, transfer efficiency is about 40% higher than old type suction gun. Also easier to clean for DIY with no gun cleaning machine. I have two of them ( Chinese knockoffs ) and they are a great value. A lot of professional auto painters use the knockoffs for basecoat and primer and keep there $500 to $ 800 SATAjets for finish, clear coat and Tri-Stage.
I also think you received above great advice, Start on small parts only. Less area to strip and redo and less material to buy twice. Temperature and amount of CFM airflow affects paint a lot. Dont be surprised if you need to wait 30 min to a hour between coats. Dont rush it.
Good Luck

 

[ray66v]

Crowbar, you have a lot of things to learn about: Having clean and dry air, proper repairs and prep, selecting a spray gun, selecting a paint system, learning how to spray paint correctly, choosing the right reducer, as well as choosing, and using primers and sealers, and the proper use of personal protective equipment.

What you need is at least a book, not just some advice.

Here is some advice: The amount of money, and time you will spend, to do all this, even at the most basic level, will exceed the cost of having it done professionally.

 

[nc redneck]

Very well said. Excellent advise.

 

[Mike476]

Crowbar, you have a lot of things to learn about: Having clean and dry air, proper repairs and prep, selecting a spray gun, selecting a paint system, learning how to spray paint correctly, choosing the right reducer, as well as choosing, and using primers and sealers, and the proper use of personal protective equipment.

What you need is at least a book, not just some advice.

Here is some advice: The amount of money, and time you will spend, to do all this, even at the most basic level, will exceed the cost of having it done professionally.

I'll second your advice on do your own research, which can be said about most jobs.

As far as getting it done professionally, refinishing $100K muscle cars is one thing, painting a tractor quite another.

Getting a quote wouldn't hurt to price it out against what you'll need to purchase to do it yourself. Unsure what you would need and what you possess.

If all you need is an HVLP gun, I'd say you're more than capable with little practice, it really isn't that difficult to lay down a coat of paint. Advantage of my $40 gun is I use it to paint everthing I own for the tractors, back blade, drag for our paddocks, will use it on my bucket and forks etc. Like anything, once you own it you'll find 1001 uses for it.

That's only if you're interested at all in doing that of course, to each their own, and that's as much a part of your decision as anything else.

 

[streamin]

Crowbar, you have a lot of things to learn about: Having clean and dry air, proper repairs and prep, selecting a spray gun, selecting a paint system, learning how to spray paint correctly, choosing the right reducer, as well as choosing, and using primers and sealers, and the proper use of personal protective equipment.

What you need is at least a book, not just some advice.

Here is some advice: The amount of money, and time you will spend, to do all this, even at the most basic level, will exceed the cost of having it done professionally.

I've been a professional painter for 25 years, I can give you my instructions but this post is correct. Take the parts off yourself and take them in. 3-$400 is a pretty good estimate. My gun costs more than that alone, you'll spend that at least just to get set up. You would also have to buy more paint/clear than you really need(the way it is sold) where they will use out of what they buy. BUT, if you decide to try yourself, ask away.

 

[ray66v]

I've been a professional painter for 25 years

I know from experience myself. I have 35 years in the business.

Spraying is one of those things that look really easy, when you watch someone who spent years leaning how to do it. And, honestly, it is really pretty easy for those who have mastered it. But, there are a lot of things that can go wrong. And, it takes experience to learn how to avoid them, or deal with them, when they happen anyway.

Sure beginners can get lucky, and turn out some decent looking stuff. I sure did when I was a kid.

Unless you are working for someone, becoming experienced can also be costly.

 

[streamin]

ray66,you hit the nail on the head: knowing what to use and when to use it, but more about dealing with problems makes a good painter. Not to mention color matching but not an issue with tractors.

 

[crowbar032]

I appreciate everyones comments and advice. If, as mentioned above, I could find someone who would do it for $500 I wouldn't even be thinking about trying it myself. I've got a couple of calls out, but haven't heard back from anyone yet. The head hasn't come back yet and the nose cone isn't here yet either, so I've still got some time to decide. It's entirely too cold right now to paint anyway. I was hoping that I wouldn't have to take the sheet metal back apart, but we'll see.

Just as another point of reference though, I've attached a pic. This is the only place that is rusted through that will need to be fixed. There are dimples on both fenders that will need to be filled with bondo. The dimples are overtop of the underlying structure of the fender and I don't think they can be hammered out. At least "I" can't hammer them out.