Rake Toothbar, Box blade, Rake, etc

[RichNJ]

I read various posts about these attachments and am still sitting on the fence. I find stripping topsoil and digging to be a slow process with my FEL on Kubota L4310HST. It seems the biggest problem I have is getting thru and digging up the sod. Not too many rocks. I leave the 750 lb finish mower on the 3pt hitch for extra weight. So for the next few projects I would like to speed things up and get the best attachments for the jobs and would like your opnions. My property is sloped gently and grass covered.
Project list:
1. Prepare planting beds and prep for concrete walkway to front door. Raise grade about 1 foot over half the area. Total area disturbed about 2000 sq ft. Walkway about 150 ft in length.
2. Prepare level area + swale for small chicken coop.
3. Clean up stone rows around property (11 acres, about 1000ft of stone rows). Move stones to fill in lower areas. The stones are fairly loose and small. The rows are about 4 foot wide and 1 foot tall. I know moving all these rocks will take time so this is a long term project. The areas to be filled in are about 800 ft from the farthest stone row.

Thanks in advance.

 

[radman]

If you want to dig in dirt, a tooth bar is the way to go. I never had one until last year. People here say it is 30-50% easier digging and now I'm a believer. I have used loaders for years and a tooth bar is a huge asset. I bought a used Bobcat tooth bar, heavy duty, for $200. Cut out an inch to make it fit and rewelded. The bolt-on type are quick and most common.
Don't have any experience with a rake and for me probably not needed. Boxblades with scarifiers can be very useful but not sure if critical for your projects. FEL can do most of your projects but may take more time. I have occasionally used a tooth bar like scarifiers.

 

[Anonymous Poster]

Buy a good boxblade. Way less stress on your machine than digging with your loader and more effective. You will wonder how you ever got along without it.

 

[cowboydoc]

Here's a question for you guys with the bolt on toothbars. Whenever I go to take mine off it is always coated with dirt and such. Everytime you have to clean the bolt and even then it's really hard to get off. I grease them everytime I put them back on but it's always the same. Anyone else have ideas?

 

[Mike_Dumond]

If you're gonna get a rake, make sure it has guage wheels. Amazing how well those work. And for a few bucks extra, get one with a drop down blade.

Keep the greasy side down.
Mike

 

[HR_Mutt]

cowboydoc
I don't have the bolt on toothbar so I'm guessing here. Do you have extra bolt length leaving threads exposed? Maybe a 2nd nut or a shorter bolt? If not exposed threads what about sealing the thread w/ service removable loctite or even a little silicone?
Mutt

 

[HR_Mutt]

RichNJ
Box blade rippers or toothbar would certainly soften up the sod but I'm a little confused that you're not ripping it up with your FEL. My tractor is only slightly larger and I'm able to either rip it off gradually a couple inches at a pass or just plunge right in. Have you tried different angles of FEL? It really should work. That must be some tough sod/w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif
regards
Mutt

 

[mlmartin]

I loaded four tons of fist sized stones onto my neighbor's truck and trailer over the weekend. I have a JD 870 with a 60 inch HD FEL bucket. It was slow work. The stones seem to prefer being pushed, rather than jumping into the bucket. I think that a tooth bar would help out quite a bit.

I've done a few swales with my tractor. I roughed the first ones in with my backhoe and FEL and then I got a box blade. The box blade is a real timesaver for that task. A box blade is great for changing grades, too. If you have any gravel/dirt roads/paths to maintain, a box blade is the way to go. You should be able to break up sod with a box blade but I don't think it will make planting beds very well. Take a look at a 3ph rototiller for that task.

When I renew my lawns, I'll borrow/rent a rake. I can't really justify the expense of purchase for a one time use.

Matthew

 

[Bird]

I just haven't had that problem, but I don't put any grease on mine. Maybe my bolts just aren't old enough yet.

Bird

 

[Anonymous Poster]

I bought a stone bucket for my FEL and use it in the bush to get firewood too. The tines are spaced about 2" apart so it picks up most of the smaller stones too. Might work for you as well.

 

[PaulT]

I don't have a toothbar, but I may have a solution. A buddy of mine intoduced me to some gunk called anti-sieze. It is a moderately thick paste that looks silver grey, and sticks quite well (like axle grease). Whenever he knows he needs to remove a nut/bolt in the future, he coats the bolt with this stuff before he tightens the nut. It is primarily an automotive application for high torque bolts that need to be removed often (like head bolts on racing blocks). Give it a try.

PaulT

 

[cowboydoc]

Mutt I've tryed that too. The problem is that I move alot of manure too and that gets in there. I used the locktite once but couldn't hardly get the bolts back off then. I haven't tryed silicone though that might be an option. Thanks.

 

[cowboydoc]

Thanks Paul. I've used that too. It does work great on most things. My problem is I get into so much dirt, muck, etc. that it must eat away anything that Iput on there because when I go back to take them off it's like they have been on for years and are rusted. I'm sure it has to do with the manure and stuff that I move but can't find anything that will resist it so far.

 

[RichNJ]

If rust is a problem - How about stainless steel bolts and nuts. I keep a good supply from 1/4" to 1/2" for general replacement use where rust is an issue. Don't use them where safety is a concern if they break. Couldn't tell you how many hours I've saved over the years by not having to fight rusted bolts.

 

[TerryinMD]

I just installed a toothbar to my FEL and the bolts are 3/4" in diameter (1 1/8 socket) by 2 1/2" long. There appears to be an extra inch or so of thread beyond the nut. I'm thinking of replacing those bolts with a shorter bolt. Guaranteed that the threads will get fouled when using the FEL.

The question is is there a "better" bolt to use for this application. Galvanized? Anodized? Stainless? I don't plan on leaving the toothbar on for all uses. Dang thing is dangerous to boot!! Remember the posting on "What I hit with my FEL"....

 

[Keoke]

Terry, try running the toothbar bolt from the bucket inside with the nut on the outside. Put anti-seize (graphite) on threads and cut off off excess bolt threads flush at nut. Remove nut and chamfer cut off thread end for easier installation.

 

[Anonymous Poster]

cowboydoc
I use anti-seize on mine. Still collects a little dirt, but less than it did with grease. Much easier to remove, but I'm playing with the idea of using pins and clips. Tried drilling bolts and using hitch pins lost three pins. My next one is to cut a groove and use a circlip. I'll let you know if that works better. Stupid paying job keeps getting in the way of fun stuff.

 

[TerryinMD]

Keoke,

The nut is on the outside. However, as we all know Murphy's Law applies.....

I was just sending out a feeler as to what might be available as far as bolts and nuts. And also, what type might work best.

May have to visit my neighbor, he has tons of the right equipment to handle this situation. /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif