top link

   / top link #2  
If your going to pay that much for one, get it from Carter and Carter for about the same money. It will be a Cat. 1 (right length and ball ID) like you need instead of Cat. 2. The C&C cylinder also has valves on board to keep it from drifting down.
 
   / top link
  • Thread Starter
#3  
Your right that is a good deal. Looks like they offer several differant lengths.
What would be the best size for my L3300? I have landscape rake, moldboard plow, disc harrow, box blade, subsoiler, bush hog, tiller.
 
   / top link #4  
If you look on their website and open the pdf called:

Top-N-Tilt: Information needed to install
INSTALLATION QUESTIONS PDF

it should answer most of your questions. If you still have some, call them and they will happily help you out. I'm very happy with their top and side link cylinders and their service.
 
   / top link #5  
Your tractor uses a Cat. 1 size link. The one that you more than likely will need will be the 18-26.5". Unless you have a Pat's quick change, then you might need the 21-32". I know I had to go to the longer size when I put Pats on. Measure your top link with it at it's shortest length and then fully extended. Compare that to the available link sizes.
 
   / top link #6  
Nuthin' but good advice here. I can only 2nd the motion (3rd the motion?) of getting your HTL from CCM.
 
   / top link #7  
Ditto the above about Carter and Carter. I just bought one from them for my L3130. $255 delivered with the hoses and quick connects.
 
   / top link #8  
Hi Guys,

Quick Q. I'm looking at a hydro top link from CCM as I'm very impressed by all you've had to say about them.

I run a Speeco quick hitch on my JD 4720 and was wondering if that changed the length of TL I should order?? I noticed that the Pat's Quickie unit changed the required length.

Thanks for your help.

-Jer.
 
   / top link #9  
Hi Guys,

Quick Q. I'm looking at a hydro top link from CCM as I'm very impressed by all you've had to say about them.

I run a Speeco quick hitch on my JD 4720 and was wondering if that changed the length of TL I should order?? I noticed that the Pat's Quickie unit changed the required length.

Thanks for your help.

-Jer.

You won't need a longer TL with that style QH...Only the Pat's style need the TL longer.
 
   / top link #10  
Thanks Kenny.

What is it about the Pat's that requires a longer TL???

-Jer.
 
   / top link #11  
Thanks Kenny.

What is it about the Pat's that requires a longer TL???

-Jer.

If you look at pictures of them, you will see that they pin onto the end of the draft arms, adding about 3" to 4" to the length. There is no parts added to the TL, it is still pinned onto the implement in the same matter as without the QH installed thus requiring the TL to be 3" to 4" longer.

The Land Pride, JD's I-Match, Speeco, and the Horrible Fright QH's all add the same distance to the lower draft arms as well as the TL.
 
   / top link #12  
Thanks Kenny.

What is it about the Pat's that requires a longer TL???

-Jer.

I'm not Kenny, but I can answer your question, and Kenny might want to add more. The Pat's system extends only the lower lift arms and does not extend the toplink. If you placed an extension adapter on your toplink, you would not need a longer one, but you would have to fabricate the extension. The easier way is to buy a longer toplink.

On the Speeco system. All 3 points of your hitch are extended. This negates the need for a longer toplink. Everything is extended equally and the geometry remains the same.

Hope this helps...:)

Edit: Oops! Didn't see that Kenny had already answered.:eek:
 
   / top link #13  
what are hydraulic side links used for? i'm thinking about a top link......evenually......carter looks like the deal
 
   / top link #14  
what are hydraulic side links used for? i'm thinking about a top link......evenually......carter looks like the deal

Hydraulic side links (the "tilt" in a Top and Tilt setup) is used to angle a implement side-to-side (left and right) on the fly. Most handy with rear blades, box blades, and rakes. Unless you are doing a lot of grading type jobs, then you probably do not need it.
 
   / top link #16  
Thanks for the quick hitch answer guys, that makes perfect sense.

FYI to Mr. Flathead.... I've been doing a lot of research too and I'm going to go with just a hydraulic top link for now, don't think I need to be tilting anything that badly, and besides I only have one SCV on the back right now to run one extra cylinder, which will be for the TL. Almost everyone on this forum recommends Carter and Carter Machinery (CCM) for the hydraulic kit.

Does anyone know if the JD 4x20 series 3pt hitches have a float setting?? It doesn't depict one on the lever labels.

Thanks,

-Jer.
 
   / top link #17  
Does anyone know if the JD 4x20 series 3pt hitches have a float setting?? It doesn't depict one on the lever labels.

The 3PH automatically "floats". There is no downpressure on the 3PH of most tractors. Try it for yourself...lower the 3PH all the way and you will be able to lift the arms by just pulling them.
 
   / top link #19  
Most of you likely have done this already, but FYI I went out and measured my 4720's top link fully retracted and extended. It was 19.5" retracted and 30" extended. When it was fully retracted my quick hitch was maybe at a 15 degree angle "toe backwards". When it was fully extended it was 30 - 40 degrees "toe forward". I dunno what function would ever need that much toe forward, so I'm going with the 18 - 26.5" CCM top link, thus giving me more useful toe backward (ie. to make dirt/snow/etc roll when blading), and less meaningless toe forward.

Can't wait to nudge that lever instead on getting off and spinning..... and spinning...... and spinning...... the manual TL!!! That's lazy I know, but so is a remote starter, but I'll likely do that too!!!

Just my thoughts.

-Jer.
 

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