I'm not planning on replacing the whole head. I got the broken bolts out today and other than cleaning it, the head looks good. The valves have no visible damage and cleaned up easily. I'm thinking that other than a new push rod to replace the bent one, new gaskets, and new valve guides, I should not need to buy anything else.
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Toro GT2300 bogging down
- Thread starter Beaverplt
- Start date
- Views: 9914
radios1
Elite Member
maybe gasket material. you certainly have an oil fouled cylinder there, maybe you do need to have it looked at..Should I order new valve guides when I order the other stuff I need?
Of course when I looked up new push rods on ereplacementparts.com, I found two different numbers. My engine model 735 is listed, but the 4 numbers after the dash (0011 in my case) is not listed.
I also examined the cylinder. I do not see any obvious scoring of the cylinder walls. I am attaching a picture of the cylinder. I'm curious as to what the light brown substance is in the upper right hand corner is. It appears to be a blocked hole. View attachment 625676
I made an incorrect assumption. I thought each valve had a valve stem seal. When I saw the one on the intake and none on the exhaust, I assumed it had broken and caused my problem. When I went to the head diagram to make a list of what I needed, I saw the difference. That brings me back to trying to figure out what caused the rod to bend. I can't focus on one valve or the other as both rods fell out when I removed the valve cover.
radios1
Elite Member
a broken valve stem seal won't bend a push rod, just cause high oil consumption. what can cause the push rods to bend is a loose lock nut on the rocker arm adjusting screws, or the studs for the rocker arm either came loose, or pulled out of the head, or a valve guide loosened up, moved, and caused the push rod to jam.I made an incorrect assumption. I thought each valve had a valve stem seal. When I saw the one on the intake and none on the exhaust, I assumed it had broken and caused my problem. When I went to the head diagram to make a list of what I needed, I saw the difference. That brings me back to trying to figure out what caused the rod to bend. I can't focus on one valve or the other as both rods fell out when I removed the valve cover.
l'm curious as to why the repair manual suggests using new bolts when reinstalling the head. I've done that on the head of my Saturn, but those bolts are holding a much larger head over 4 cylinders. Also, would I replace the valve stem seal? It did not separate from the head when I disassembled it and is tight to the valve.
radios1
Elite Member
if the manual says to do that, it's for a good reason, like the bolts can stretch.. as far as the valve stem seals go, replace those, you have the head off already, and you had high oil consumption on that cylinder, look how black that piston is!. valve stem seals can cause that, with new seals on the intake and exaust valves, you can rule out bad seals as the cause of high oil consumption(black piston)..l'm curious as to why the repair manual suggests using new bolts when reinstalling the head. I've done that on the head of my Saturn, but those bolts are holding a much larger head over 4 cylinders. Also, would I replace the valve stem seal? It did not separate from the head when I disassembled it and is tight to the valve.
Well, I bought the new head gasket, bolts and push rods. Had the day off to work on it along with a few other projects. I cleaned the old gasket material off the head and the engine, put the new gasket and head back on and torqued it to spec. When I put the rocker arms and new push rods in, I noticed the bolts were not going in very far before getting tight. I checked to see if my pivots were installed correctly in the rockers and they are. This makes me wonder if the push rods are installed correctly. From what I can tell, they are, but before I screw something up, I'd like to see if someone can tell if I'm doing something obviously wrong.
What you want to do is rotate the engine to where it would open the intake valve. After that lifter travels downward continue to turn the crank until the piston is at the top of the next stroke. At that point is where you set the valve lash. You can secure the rocker, set the lash and hopefully will be good. I don't recall why you felt the rods bent.
The repair manual says to put the engine at TDC of the compression stroke, then install the rods and rocker arms. In different terms, it is where you said it should be.
Only one of the rods was bent. When I removed the valve cover both rods fell out. Now that I think about it, wouldn't the undamaged rod have stayed in place? My initial guess was the rocker arm(s) loosened up somehow. I'm now wondering if my problem is a little deeper.
One other thing I noticed. The guide plate shown in the head diagram is nowhere to be found. Because the manual covers SV710-SV740, I'm wondering if it applies to my engine.
Only one of the rods was bent. When I removed the valve cover both rods fell out. Now that I think about it, wouldn't the undamaged rod have stayed in place? My initial guess was the rocker arm(s) loosened up somehow. I'm now wondering if my problem is a little deeper.
One other thing I noticed. The guide plate shown in the head diagram is nowhere to be found. Because the manual covers SV710-SV740, I'm wondering if it applies to my engine.
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