Toro GT2300 bogging down

[tomplum]

So, when one thinks of a twin engine bogging down intermittently- a common cause can be one cylinder is not running. Not knowing you personally, do you think that you could recognize that condition? You could ground a spark plug /wire and do a test run if that seems what you are experiencing. Engines that are running normally on only one cylinder seem anemic. Slower to accelerate, lower on power etc. Myself when trouble shooting a lame cylinder will normally use my tach or thermometer to compare exhaust temps on the individual exhaust pipes.

Do both spark plugs have pretty normal similar deposits? One will naturally appear to be running a little cooler. Your carb is a single barrel so fuel delivery issues are further down the line such as a leaking intake manifold or seal possibly. I can't think that this carb has an accelerator pump unless it was changed. A carb with an accelerator pump has a 3 screw flange and a small hose on the side of the bowl. A normal carb that seems to be running normally will usually stay that way as it runs up. You have checked the flywheel key and hopefully tried a couple sets of spark plugs.

In regards to the PTO clutch. If they engage well, normally will run the load constantly. They won't put additional load on the engine if the disc is worn. If the bearings are failing, they only really spin when the clutch is disengaged. The deck on your tractor is large enough to load the engine beyond its limits. If this is the case, I would expect the belt to be screaming hot.

Anyways, a few things to chew on for now. Keep us in the loop.

 

[tomplum]

One other thought. Your fuel tank has a small outlet in the bottom. Debris can gradually plug the bottom of the tank fitting and line. These pulse pumps can't overcome that if they get bad. Yours should be old enough to have a vented tank cap as well.

 

[Beaverplt]

Well, I got all excited when I discovered that I had not connected one of the plug wires. Thinking that my mistake was problem solved, I connected it and went for a test mow. Unfortunately I got the same result. Hoping the issue might clear itself by running it for a while, I mowed a large chunk of my lawn. Nothing changed.

I checked the spark on both sides. Each side was good. I installed new plugs before my coil conversion, but I'm still going to try another set. I had checked the flywheel key earlier. It was not partially sheared. Maybe that changed? Maybe I should just put in a new one.

The fuel tank idea is a good one. I'll check that as well. The question of proper fuel supply makes me wonder if the solenoid on the carb is working properly. It has to be working at least partially. My fuel cap is vented. I checked to make sure the vent was clear and it is.

 

[radios1]

if one of the coil wires shorting to ground made the engine lose power after repair, it's possible the ignition module got damaged from the short. (too much current). you said it was fine before this happened..

 

[Beaverplt]

If I damaged that coil, wouldn't it be showing a weak spark?

 

[radios1]

If I damaged that coil, wouldn't it be showing a weak spark?

not coil, but ignition module that fires the coil.. I don't have a schematic of the wiring, but it seems from other posters like you have a CDI(capacitor discharge ignition).. anyone have the wiring diagram?.

 

[tomplum]

The kit he installed takes the spark advance module out of the picture. Rather than a battery ignition, it is a typical CDI magneto ignition. Each coil has a capacitor to release the spark. One wire per module or coil in simpler terms which is grounded to kill the engine.

 

[radios1]

The kit he installed takes the spark advance module out of the picture. Rather than a battery ignition, it is a typical CDI magneto ignition. Each coil has a capacitor to release the spark. One wire per module or coil in simpler terms which is grounded to kill the engine.

there are 2 types, one converts 12V dc into 400V dc electronically, with an inverter, the SCR's in it are what makes the coils spark. the other type uses coils that produce 400V dc by coils under the flywheel, and SCR's then fire the coils. which type is it?. the problem had started after the coil wire grounded out, so that makes an ignition module suspect..

 

[tomplum]

Neither. BTW both the ignition coils and engine harness have been replaced. The question is an individual cylinder loosing power, is there another issue affecting engine runability or possibly a deck issue. I'd like to help, but am not there.

 

[Beaverplt]

Well, I now know why I am bogging. The cylinder on the left side, or driver's side if it were a car, is only showing 800 on a compression test. The other is 1400. I was sure both cylinders tested the same when I checked them a few weeks ago, but I obviously messed up. (probably didn't clear the other side's reading). So I am guessing I've got to look into what's going on on that side.