Towing capacity

[Torvy]

Just my two cents and actual experience. I have a Kubota B3300SU with an LA504 front loader with a JBar 5' bush hog. That setup is around 3000 lbs. I use a 16ft tandem axle trailer that I estimate weighs 1200 lbs. When I bought the setup I was using a 2009 Nissan Titan, pulled it with no problem. I have since changed trucks and now pull with a Toyota Tacoma Limited and it pulls it just fine as well. The Toyota is rated for 6500 lbs. I also pull a travel trailer with the Toyota and it weighs in around 4500 lbs. I use a weight distribution hitch for the camper but not it with the tractor. The camper is like pulling a brick, tractor not so much. Only adjustment I made when changing trucks is I set the tractor a few feet back on the trailer to reduce the toungue weight given the smaller truck. Hope this helps.

Thanks. I've owned a lot of Toyotas over the years..2 right now. I'd like a Tundra, but I worry about the lower tow limits. Tacoma is nice, and about the same size as the old Tundra. Problem is the B-series is much too small for our needs. More likely an L4701.

 

[Torvy]

OP,

In my case, my cabbed tractor weighs 4200 lbs (that's bare chassis weight) dry weight (according to manufacturer listed weight). The FEL with standard bucket weighs 1200 lbs. When I bought mine, I had the dealer fill the rear tires with Rimgaurd. At the first opportunity I brought it to the CAT scale and weighed it. According to the actual scale, my tractor with FEL + bucket, filled rear tires, and a box blade (it's what I had on at the time) weighs 7100 lbs. Rimguard is the heaviest liquid you can fill your tires with, but it's not available in all areas. My tires are size 420/70x24, and they are filled up to the top of the rim on the high side, to give you an idea of how much weight to add for filling rear tires.

I have been hauling this on my 18' car trailer. It's been "working", but the load is too heavy for my rated trailer capacity. My next trailer will be a +/- 30' deckover gooseneck. The reason I want such a big jump in trailer deck length is there have been several times I've wished to have more that one set of attachments with me while on a job site. With an 18' trailer, it's not an option because there is no room to put anything else on. You get what's on the tractor and that's it. I also want the deckover for hauling pallets or IBC totes more easily that a standard deck with wheel wells in the way.

This is my 18' trailer with my 6' mower on the back:

View attachment 712484

As you can see, it hangs off the back by several feet. A 22' deck would keep it all on the deck with no overhang. But I want room for a couple of attachments as well.

With the box blade on the 3pt, it doesn't overhang at all:

View attachment 712495

Thank you. That is very helpful info. BtW, it looks like you have a serious fungus problem in your grass in the last photo. I hope you got that cleared up.

I don't have to worry about job sites. The primary use for the trailer will be bringing the tractor in for service. Having the RC on the back is a worst case scenario...if for some reason we cannot get it off of the hitch. I may even skip the whole idea. If I get a Kubota, I could just drive it into the dealership (7 miles on back roads) unless it is dead. If dead, I guess I could pay them to pick it up.

If not for the tractor use, I would get a small single-axle utility trailer with removable sides. I had a nice one 15 years ago, but had to leave it in Wisconsin.

 

[ROUSTABOUT]

I pull my L2550DT with a 3/4 ton Dodge with a V10 and a 7K tilt bed trailer (two 3,500K axles). It pulls fine up and down hills and being a dual axle trailer it has brakes as well.
My regret in the purchase was not getting a 9K trailer but no issues with my current package for the Kubota use.

Tandem axle? Or does it have dual wheels on each axle? Tandem is two axles single wheel. Tandem dual is two axles with duals on each end of each axle.

 

[ROUSTABOUT]

I am trying to build out parameters for a truck and trailer I will need to transport my tractor. I can get specific weights on tractors and equipment. I am trying to determine how much 'wiggle room' I need to build in to my calculations. So if I get a medium-sized CUT with ROPs, that is about 3300 lbs. 16 ft trailer with about 7000 lb capacity is 2500-3000 lbs. Cab is a maybe right now. FEL is a definite yes, so I will have to add in weight for that. Also likely to have med-hvy duty RC on 3pt. What other factors do I need to consider? Like, how heavy would loaded tires be? At this point, I don't know what I don't know. I don't want to buy too small a truck, but I also have no interest in a behemoth.

Ive.got a scale receipt and a picture here. In a 75 year 3/4 ton 26, 600 lbs. I hauled that load 30 miles. I think a 3/4 ton should do what you want.

 

[ning]

In California I can't legally tow a non-RV trailer that's over 10k GVWR without a class A (commercial or non-commercial) license -- regardless of what's on it or how much it really weighs.

I've talked to contractors whose dump trailers are obviously over 10k and police have never bothered them, though.

 

[mgarner]

Great advice, so far. I shouldn't need to ever go more than about 50 miles with a load and none of it would be on an interstate highway.

I'm that guy who doesn't want more trailer than I need. Longer means that much more difficult to maneuver and more space to store when not in use.

Longer means easier, not more difficult, when it comes to backing a trailer.

 

[TractorGuy]

How do you establish the actual tongue weight?

A bathroom scale and some boards will work. I measured the tongue weight for a heavy trailer setup at work with my 4to1 setup once and then took it to a shop with certified scales. My measurement was within 3 pounds different. That particular trailer had over a 1000 lbs on the tongue.

Measuring trailer tongue weight with a bathroom scale

I have a set of 4 metal 4 to 1 scales I use to balance race car chassis. Just multiply the scale reading times 4 and you have the actual weight.

 

[putt_putt_green]

I have an 18' aluminum trailer (no dovetail), which weighs 1500 pounds. The weight reduction in the trailer lets me haul my tractor with bucket, loaded tires, and implement with a 1/2 ton truck. If I hauled all the time, I'd get a truck trailer combo exceeding the towing capacity by at least a few thousand pounds.

 

[ljjhouser]

There are several numbers that are important when deciding to tow a tractor (or most anything.) These numbers are an effort to remain legal and safe.
They are Vehicle payload (not to exceed), GCVW - Gross Combined Vehicle Weight (weight of trailer + entire load + tow vehicle weight including payload on truck, Weight capacity of trailer (weight of trailer and load)
I will use my tractor as an example. Maybe close to your numbers.
My bare tractor is 3000#. + Loader 1100# + Tire fluid at 40% about 400# + light bucket 250# + box blade 400# + Chains and binders 200#. Total about 5350. My trailer is heavy, it is a doolittle tilt bed 20' and weighs 3700# Now total trailer trailer weight 9050#. My trailer is a 14k. So the trailer is good. I also use a sway bar- equalizing hitch.

NOW, the truck. The truck GVW gross vehicle weight is 7100. But 900 pounds of the trailer weight will be on the truck through the tongue. so that 900 comes out of the truck payload, but must stay under the 7100# (this may be the hardest number to meet).

The truck must also be able to have tow capacity to tow the trailer and load. I usually tow 10000 when towing the tractor because of tool box and pallet forks. So the tongue weight is min. 1000.

My truck must have a tow capacity of 10K or more. I have a Ram Truck. But the Ram truck has a tow capacity of 8K - NO GOOD. So I had to include the premium rear end - ratio is 3.92 with the optional trans. Now the tow capacity is 11330#. Again, my trailer is a 20' - I really wish it was 22'. But then, the numbers are too close to add more weight.

One more note, Do not get a diesel engine. The added weight for the engine comes out of the truck payload capacity. Unless it is a 2500.
I think these numbers are legal. But a 2500 would be much better suited. However, I do not tow my tractor more than about two times a year. And my wife did not want the bigger truck.

One more consideration. Legal and safe are not the same thing. I have had people say - Don't worry about all those numbers. I tow much more than that with my car??? My reply to that is this. If SOMEONE causes you to be involved in an accident - which involves the highway patrol, and if you get a ticket for overweight - Will you insurance pay the bill for your truck + tractor + trailer ----50K + 30K + 6K = 86K. I always make a great attempt to be legal. And then there is the issue of brakes on the trailer - over 5k required all 4 to be legal. Best wishes Larry

 

[Chewwy]

I don't have to worry about job sites. The primary use for the trailer will be bringing the tractor in for service. Having the RC on the back is a worst case scenario...if for some reason we cannot get it off of the hitch. I may even skip the whole idea. If I get a Kubota, I could just drive it into the dealership (7 miles on back roads) unless it is dead. If dead, I guess I could pay them to pick it up.

If your primary need for the is trailer is bringing your tractor in for sevice, I suggest you just pay the dealer for pickup and delivery. It will cost much less than a moderately heavy duty trailer and an appropriate tow vehicle. Alternately, you could have it picked up and delivered back by paying a towing company and using one of their rollback wreckers with a steel bed (i.e., not Aluminum).

In 27 years of owning three different tractors, they have all been back to the dealer only once and that was to add a third function to the FEL. Routine sevice on a tractor does not require dealer participation assuming the owner has basic mechanical skills and a few tools.

 

[SaddleBronc]

Get the most trailer you can under DOT limits (Class A requirements, etc., plus state) and don't look back.

 

[newbury]

<snip>After riding down that a couple of times with my last dog she refused to even get into the truck. <snip>

ROFL!
I used to live on a dirt road like that in Northern Vermont.
When the ice went out so did the road.
Had a 196? Toyota Hilux with great springs.

<snip>FMCSA (quoted below) states that if your vehicle has a GCWR of 26,0001 AND you are hauling a trailer with a GVWR of 10,001 or more (note these are ratings, and not actual load), you need a CDL if used for commerce.

if used for commerce.
I've been active on this forum since 2009. This come up all the time. I've read of just one poster in southern Virginia that his brother got ticketed by the State troopers because his trailer rated capacity (not load) exceeded the 10,000 rating.
When I first got my 18' Hudson with a mfgr 12,000 lb GVWR the teller at the Va. DMV gave the option of having it rated at 10,000.

 

[Tony H]

Towing a Kabota 3450 with FEL and loaded tires on a 14', 7000 trailer with a Chevy 2500 diesel. I don't drive it all day long but a few times a year I do several 40 mile round trip runs a day. The FEL is lifted over the trailer but as far as driveability.....the truck and trailer are very happy. Even up some pretty serious, 5 mile, inclines.

 

[repete]

Tandem axle? Or does it have dual wheels on each axle? Tandem is two axles single wheel. Tandem dual is two axles with duals on each end of each axle.

Two axles, four tires total.

 

[Torvy]

If your primary need for the is trailer is bringing your tractor in for sevice, I suggest you just pay the dealer for pickup and delivery. It will cost much less than a moderately heavy duty trailer and an appropriate tow vehicle. Alternately, you could have it picked up and delivered back by paying a towing company and using one of their rollback wreckers with a steel bed (i.e., not Aluminum).

In 27 years of owning three different tractors, they have all been back to the dealer only once and that was to add a third function to the FEL. Routine sevice on a tractor does not require dealer participation assuming the owner has basic mechanical skills and a few tools.

Thank you! You convinced me. The more I think about it, the less I think I need a trailer for my tractor. The cost of the trailer plus the cost of a truck with enough power to tow it just doesn't make sense in my case. I can pick up attachments from Arkansas (nearest EA free ship about 80 miles from me) with a smaller trailer. I can use a small trailer for a lot of stuff around my property. I can tow anything I need with a smaller truck like a Tacoma. I also can afford to wait a year or two. Who knows, by then Toyota may have their hybrid and EV trucks available.

 

[eddieirvine]

Not to get off what he is asking about, it is good to get set up right for sure ! I have a question i to tow a 3940 with loader an usually a box scraper or mower. How do you know where to locate your load on the trailer? Say like more tongue weight, less? And if it sways what is that telling you?

 

[fried1765]

What he said 100%. I would go with a 20' trailer minimum and 2-7k axles, plenty wiggle room with how much weight you can haul and enough wiggle room to shift your load forward or back on the trailer to get it to pull to your liking.

That is exactly the trailer size/capacity I have for my 7,780 lb. Kubota L48TLB.
My trailer gross weight with L48 aboard is 11,380 lbs.over the scales.
Trailer rating is 14K + 1K for Equal-i-zer hitch tongue weight.

I trailer for my personal use only, and very infrequently.
Class A licenses are for commercial use.
Diesel pusher private busses do not require a class A license, and are longer and heavier than my rig.

 

[ljjhouser]

Not to get off what he is asking about, it is good to get set up right for sure ! I have a question i to tow a 3940 with loader an usually a box scraper or mower. How do you know where to locate your load on the trailer? Say like more tongue weight, less? And if it sways what is that telling you?

The rule of thumb for tongue weight is 10 to 15% of the load weight (that includes the trailer weight). I like to use about 10%. It keeps more weight on the trailer rather than on the truck. If you have fish tail or sway problems, most likely there is too much weight on the back. Move the load forward a little, in small increments. Also, watch truck. If you have 10% on the truck and the back end is down or front end is up, it may effect the steering. The front axle may be too light to steer properly. In that case, use an equalizing hitch. For example, Reese Stedi Flex which has equalizing and sway bars. Sway can be caused by many things. If you were towing a large RV with a side wind load, it may cause sway. If you tow an equipment trailer with low load, or tractor, sway may be caused by load too far to back. I suggest if you feel you are loaded correctly, and if you know the weight of your truck - if you are traveling pretty heavy, visit a CAT scale and find you trailer axle weight, rear truck axle weight and front axle weight. That will give you the total gross combined vehicle weight, and the axle weights. Your truck should have the axle weight rating in the driver door panel. If you drive the vehicle w trailer loaded, might cut slightly to the left or right to see how the trailer reacts. (GOING SLOWLY) Also, if your truck seems to hit bumps HARD, there probably too much tongue weight. On the other hand, if the trailer causes the truck to seem to "float" over bumps, the trailer load is too far back and somewhat controlling the truck.

The worst mistake you can make is to have the load too far back. Get used to how it handles and never take big steps loading the back of the trailer. Hope this helps some. What does you 3040 weigh with loader, bucket and any implements?
There are times that I an traveling and loaded and it does not feel quite right. I can adjust the load about an inch and it feels right.
A word about using a CAT scale. It is easy - download the CAT app. Bring up the app. When you pull on the scale (trailer axles - rear truck axle - front axle - each on a different segment of the scale. The app will ask you to verify scale location. Then the payment method you filled in the app, then let it weigh - the cost is about $12. The numbers will be sent to your phone. If you want a paper copy, go inside and they will give you a printout.
If you want to adjust you load, you can pull back on the scale and ask the app to rescale. I think that cost $3. I also think you can rescale two times if needed. Best wishes, Larry

P.S. Do the best you can to get the weight all in specs. But getting used to the feel means a lot for me. Some times I tow my tractor 300 miles. I start out checking chains and binders the first 20 miles or so. During that time, I watch to see that everything feels ok and that the trailer is tracking well. Several times I have had to scale or adjust the load one or even TWO times. If you always load the same load (maybe tractor), mark its location on the trailer when I travels well. Might save time the next time you load.

 

[fried1765]

That is exactly the trailer size/capacity I have for my 7,780 lb. Kubota L48TLB.
My trailer gross weight with L48 aboard is 11,380 lbs.over the scales.
Trailer rating is 14K + 1K for Equal-i-zer hitch tongue weight.

The rule of thumb for tongue weight is 10 to 15% of the load weight (that includes the trailer weight). I like to use about 10%. It keeps more weight on the trailer rather than on the truck. If you have fish tail or sway problems, most likely there is too much weight on the back. Move the load forward a little, in small increments. Also, watch truck. If you have 10% on the truck and the back end is down or front end is up, it may effect the steering. The front axle may be too light to steer properly. In that case, use an equalizing hitch. For example, Reese Stedi Flex which has equalizing and sway bars. Sway can be caused by many things. If you were towing a large RV with a side wind load, it may cause sway. If you tow an equipment trailer with low load, or tractor, sway may be caused by load too far to back. I suggest if you feel you are loaded correctly, and if you know the weight of your truck - if you are traveling pretty heavy, visit a CAT scale and find you trailer axle weight, rear truck axle weight and front axle weight. That will give you the total gross combined vehicle weight, and the axle weights. Your truck should have the axle weight rating in the driver door panel. If you drive the vehicle w trailer loaded, might cut slightly to the left or right to see how the trailer reacts. (GOING SLOWLY) Also, if your truck seems to hit bumps HARD, there probably too much tongue weight. On the other hand, if the trailer causes the truck to seem to "float" over bumps, the trailer load is too far back and somewhat controlling the truck.

The worst mistake you can make is to have the load too far back. Get used to how it handles and never take big steps loading the back of the trailer. Hope this helps some. What does you 3040 weigh with loader, bucket and any implements?
There are times that I an traveling and loaded and it does not feel quite right. I can adjust the load about an inch and it feels right.
A word about using a CAT scale. It is easy - download the CAT app. Bring up the app. When you pull on the scale (trailer axles - rear truck axle - front axle - each on a different segment of the scale. The app will ask you to verify scale location. Then the payment method you filled in the app, then let it weigh - the cost is about $12. The numbers will be sent to your phone. If you want a paper copy, go inside and they will give you a printout.
If you want to adjust you load, you can pull back on the scale and ask the app to rescale. I think that cost $3. I also think you can rescale two times if needed. Best wishes, Larry

P.S. Do the best you can to get the weight all in specs. But getting used to the feel means a lot for me. Some times I tow my tractor 300 miles. I start out checking chains and binders the first 20 miles or so. During that time, I watch to see that everything feels ok and that the trailer is tracking well. Several times I have had to scale or adjust the load one or even TWO times. If you always load the same load (maybe tractor), mark its location on the trailer when I travels well. Might save time the next time you load.

I have a full trailer width 2x4 screwed to the deck of my trailer to stop the front wheels of my L48TLB in the same spot every time.

 

[ljjhouser]

I have a full trailer width 2x4 screwed to the deck of my trailer to stop the front wheels of my L48TLB in the same spot every time.

That works well. I started using meta tabs screwed to the deck for different loads. Works ok, but I forget which one is for what. It's not rocket science, you would think I could remember. But sometimes I don't.