Towing with a Pickup - weight?

[jc7622]

I have a Chevy 2wd, 1/2 ton P/U. I am looking to buy about a 50hp tractor with cab. The one that I am probably going to buy weighs about 5200#. I also want to add a FEL.

I routinely rent and haul a Bobcat 753 that weighs 4800# with no problem at all.

I'm not sure how much weight will be added with the FEL and probably a mower (and the heavier duty trailer). I will only be towing it about 5 to 10 miles max on backroads. If I can easily tow the Bobcat will I be able to squeeze by towing the tractor with the 1/2 ton P/U?

 

[tillboy2001]

You should be able to ask your dealer (truck) what your towing capacity is. My 'official' capacity is 8,800 pounds. In my case, I'd be probably right at the official towing capacity with a tractor like the one you describe. Just for reference, I've got a 2004 F-150 w/5.4 V8 (300 HP and 365 lb ft Torque). The 6' finish mower I have weighs between 500 and 600 pounds. Loader is more than that. Then add the weight of the trailer. With a 5200 lb tractor and attachments and trailer, I might actually be OVER the official limit for my truck. I'd see if you can find out what your towing capacity is on your truck.

 

[RedRocker]

I wouldn't recommend a 1/2 ton truck for towing any kind of weight, 3/4 minimum, 1 ton is better and diesel is best.

 

[HuckBB62]

jc, my tractor's not as heavy as what you're saying but with all the implements and trailer, it was near 7000lbs. If you have a good brake controller like a Prodigy and ten ply tires, you'll have no problem at all, especially if you have the tongue weight set right and keep the speed down.

 

[Scrounger]

I have a Yukon XL and I have pulled loaded up to 8000# combined with it and the only issue I've had is the Vortec 5300 is a bit weak for the weight. Its long and has the air suspension so it always tows level. I think your truck is at 8800# like my Yukon.

Good trailer brakes are a must however.

 

[Indydirtfarmer]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I have a Yukon XL and I have pulled loaded up to 8000# combined with it and the only issue I've had is the Vortec 5300 is a bit weak for the weight. Its long and has the air suspension so it always tows level. I think your truck is at 8800# like my Yukon.

Good trailer brakes are a must however. )</font>

I fwe're talking "get away with" you might pull this off. BUT... I wouldn't want to do this very often, nor take the chance of crossing paths with the D.O.T.

As long as you carry the bulk of the weight ON THE TRAILER, and only scale rated weight on the truck, and on the hitch point, you are safe in that regard.

Brakes.... That's a whole 'nuther ball game. Even with adiquate trailer brakes, a panic stop will likely over-tax your 1/2 ton truck brakes.

Cooling system? Depends on towing conditions... Hills? Stop and go?

Power/ rear axle/transmission? If we're talking once in a great while, you might get by with that too. Just wouldn't want to do it all the time...

I like to think not in terms of 99% of the time, but that 1% when you need to panic stop/deal with SOMEONE ELSES bad driving/bad road conditions(chuck holes/ect..) or some other unforeseen circumstance. Better to be over-kill than under-kill....

 

[CTyler]

As long as your within the rated towing capacity and trailer rating you will be ok with D.O.T.

My 99 Silverado 5.3 is rated at 8800#, however that is with 4:10 gearing. A 3.73 gear drops that number a fair bit. I max out my 7k car trailer with the tractor and for occasional pulling its fine. Just make sure your within the ratings!

If I were pulling that everyday or a couple days a week I'd go with a 3/4 ton and a heavier trailer.

 

[bdog]

The bottom line is yes you can pull it but you won't get there in a hurry, your brakes will be overloaded, and your trucks GVWR will be exceeded. If you are only going a few miles on the backroad than more than likely you will be fine if you take it easy but remember if something bad happens it is going to be your butt for being overloaded and I have even heard stories of insurance companies denying claims because people were overloaded. I have pulled trailers severely over the rated weight the worst being a combined weight of 40,000 lbs pulled by a Dodge deiesel. Was it smart and safe? NO. Did it work - yes.


Another thought - If you are only going a few files on the backroads why not just drive the tractor? Put on the hazards, make sure you have the SMV emblem and drive it there.

 

[Highbeam]

You didn't specify the year of the truck. I will asuume it is the 88-98 body style because this is what I have and I know some numbers.

There are only two numbers that mean a hill of beans. The GVWR, GAWR, and the GCWR. The tow rating is a bogus marketing number but if you have a 350 and 3.73 gears, yours is 6500 lbs. The GVWR is the weight on your 2 axles, should be 6200 lbs. The GAWR is the weight allowed on each axle, don't exceed this one, the tire weight ratings as delivered from the factory will not limit you. The GVWR and GAWR are available on your door jamb sticker. The GCWR is the total combined weight rating. The GCWR is not easy to find, it isn't in the owner's manual or on your door jamb sticker. For a half ton with 3.73 gears and the 350 it is 12,000 lbs your truck dealer can verify this, it is recorded with your VIN at GM.

So your truck should weigh 5000 lbs empty but with you and fuel, my K1500 weighs 5800. Looks like you really have 7000lbs left in GCWR and 1200 lbs of cargo capacity. These weights require that you know the actual weight of the truck. Go to a scale somewhere. 7000 lbs trailer/1200 lbs cargo is pretty good.

A trailer needs 10-15% tongue weight to avoid swaying. 10% of 7000 lbs is 700. Life is good, you are within the cargo capacity even with the tongue weight.

Your class 3 receiver hitch has a max tongue weight of 500 lbs unless you use a weight distributing hitch system then you can go to 1000, see the sticker on the hitch to verify. You need a WD system with the spring bars.

The 7000 lb trailer is a typical car hauler and will weigh a good 1000-1500 all by itself. This leaves you with an allowable tractor weight of 5500-6000 lbs. This weight is safe and sane, legal, etc. Drive across the country if you wish.

Now you may choose to exceed your ratings. This is a personal choice. I exceed my GVWR but not the GAWR because I refuse be limited to 400 lbs of cargo capacity in a full sized truck. The more you exceed your ratings the slower you should go. I don't care if you drive ten miles from home with an overloaded setup, you are just as likely to have a problem in those 10 miles as you are in 1000.

 

[tillboy2001]

The whole issue with 1/2 ton vs 3/4 ton is sort of muddy these days with towing capacties, cargo load, etc. For example, my truck is technically a '1/2 ton' truck...but the max allowed cargo payload in the bed is 1,650 lbs (just OVER 3/4 ton). Towing is 8,800 pounds with 3.73 limited slip rear end and 330 CID engine (5.4 L). And I have the factory installed hitch, tranny cooler, bigger altenator and bigger radiator. Could I haul more or tow more than the official specs?...I'm sure. Would I want to? Nope. I vote for driving the tractor to wherever you need it, if it's practical. Fortunately I never need to take our tractor anywhere. There might be a need for me to go 7 miles away, but it would be so infrequent that a little 20 minute drive on the road with the tractor wouldn't matter to me.

 

[edski]

You shouldn't have a problem. 2wd's are typically rated higher than 4wd's (they weigh less). After a good brake controller, a weight distributing hitch and sway bar may prove a good investment.

 

[CTyler]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( The bottom line is yes you can pull it but you won't get there in a hurry, your brakes will be overloaded, and your trucks GVWR will be exceeded. )</font>

Not sure if your responding to me or the original poster.
I'm within all the ratings both truck and trailer with the trailer loaded at its limit. The trailer has brakes.

 

[Highbeam]

"( The bottom line is yes you can pull it but you won't get there in a hurry, your brakes will be overloaded, and your trucks GVWR will be exceeded. ) "

I do not agree. Do the math and you may find that you are within the ratings. If your loaded truck weight does not exceed the listed GAWRs and GVWR for the truck then your brakes, bearings, axles, and frame are loaded within design specs. If not, then you are indeed overloaded. Nobody knows what the weak link is in determining and of these ratings. People guess and people even think they can increase the numbers but they can not. The ratings are recorded with the VIN of your truck and are not adjustable.

 

[KAB]

What Year, Engine, Transmission, Axle Ratio?
If new enough I can get you the tow rating.

If you do not know all of these answers you can PM me with the VIN and I can look it up.

Kurt

 

[grandad]

Just remember that your 5,200 lb tractor will be something like 7,500 lb with the FEL and a standard-duty 6 ft. brush mower thrown in. If you load the rear tires, figure another 1,000 lb. If your trailer is another 1,200-1,500 lb, well, you can do the math.

As others have said, you can probably get by pulling it OK on those local back roads, but that sure seems like a load for a 1/2 ton P/U. If there's any margin vs. the rated capacity of your vehicle, it can't be much. Obviously, the more you're on the road, the more likelihood you'll eventually encounter a situation where you need to stop or swerve in a hurry.

If it were my equipment, bought with my hard-earned money, and my precious kiester in the driver's seat, I wouldn't be depending on blind luck to avoid a bad situation like that. But that's just me. Maybe your luck is better than mine.

 

[CTyler]

Again I am within ALL the MFG parameters and trailer

 

[Highbeam]

Take it easy CTyler. By default, all responses in a thread are directed to the thread starter and not you. If someone was picking on your setup, etiquette would dictate that they address you. Your setup is quite a bit more capable than the original poster's pickup.

 

[Dargo]

I have towed all sorts of trailers with all sorts of weights with pickups over the decades. I've towed an enormous amount with a 1/2 ton pickup and got by with it. That being said, I have changed my ways and have been converted to use an "appropriate" sized truck and trailer.

Heck, I used to think that I should have no problem hauling however much firewood would fit in the bed of my pickup. Nevermind that it was a 1/2 ton with a full sized long bed. Upon closer examination, I found that I was severely overloading my truck. Fortunately I never paid the price.

As a lot of people have mentioned, braking is an important factor. Also, the ability to actually handle the load under less than ideal conditions should be a factor. For example, if a little kid runs out in front of me chasing a ball, I want to not only be able to stop my load, but also be able to immediately make whatever directional changes necessary to avoid a disaster. In a case like I mentioned, I technically wouldn't be at fault, but I'd have to live with the memory for the rest of my life.

Anyway, I've found that for the amount I tow, a 50hp tractor with a loader and implements, a 1 ton diesel dually is the proper equipment. Also, in an earlier thread, I told of how I also found out (very nearly the hard way) that you should never use ratcheting straps to hold that kind of equipment on your trailer. Yet another thing I found; using up every bit of the "rated" weight carrying capacity of your trailer makes the trailer handle a bit worse than I care to tow. Remember, the rated "limit" is just that; the maximum amount the trailer will handle under ideal situations. The same goes for the maximum towing rating of a pickup. That figure is based on all conditions being ideal. In the real world, things are not always ideal.

I feel much safer when I am not pushing the limits on my trailer or with my truck. For what you are wanting to do, I'd highly recommend a 1 ton pickup. That way, you shouldn't be pushing the limits of everything. It leaves a little room for error or less than absolutely ideal conditions. But, that is just my opinion. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

 

[Keith_B_]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I have a Chevy 2wd, 1/2 ton P/U. I am looking to buy about a 50hp tractor with cab. The one that I am probably going to buy weighs about 5200#. I also want to add a FEL.

I routinely rent and haul a Bobcat 753 that weighs 4800# with no problem at all.

I'm not sure how much weight will be added with the FEL and probably a mower (and the heavier duty trailer). I will only be towing it about 5 to 10 miles max on backroads. If I can easily tow the Bobcat will I be able to squeeze by towing the tractor with the 1/2 ton P/U? )</font>

You may want to think of going with a gooseneck trailer. They can haul larger loads more easily. The design of the trailers puts most of the weight over the axles of the trailer, and the weight on the truck is centered over the rear axle, which can handle more weight than placing the weight on the end of the frame as a rear receiver hitch does.

 

[Highbeam]

"Remember, the rated "limit" is just that; the maximum amount the trailer will handle under ideal situations."

My understanding is that the rated limit is the design limit under all conditions. Good or bad, not ideal only. If you are within the ratings on all of your equipment then go and enjoy yourself. Drive all over and haul anywhere you want because you have the right sized equipment to handle the load. If you go over a speed bump and the axle breaks depsite being within the ratings then the manufacturer of that axle is at fault.

All that being said, life is much better when you are well within the ratings and not on that ragged edge.