Tractor for 25ac - hilly, previously logged - input greatly appreciated

[MossRoad]

Hey Fellas - can't thank you all enough for your insight. To answer a few of the questions
yes I have a topo - see attached

Can't increase the budget any - already woudl be financing 1/2 that @ ~ 8%.

I examined the Chinese tractors - mmmmm...just doesn't sit right with me. if I'm going to be tightening stuff all the time and have no warranty - I might as well get an older "domestic" and have parts at my fingertips and people who have experience with them.

Northland - A grapple would be tough as nails, but shew those are pricey - unless you build it yourself, which could be done with some friends.

I looked at the Power-Trac's - very interesting! A bit procey for me though I think.

I looked at arch's some time ago and considered a Kodiak or Grizzly (yamaha bias) - but there's just so much I can't do with a 4 wheeler. Arch with a tractor yes. Would feel much safer!

Tires - R1's definetly preferred! If I can' reduce the filesizes I'll include some property pics.

Only "limit" on size is I want it to fit in a 9x7 gar door so I can keep it in the bsmt. to work on if needed and warm!

I'm rethinking my original plan as we have a 4 mo old (our 1st) and the regular cab is quickly becoming cramped. Coupled with the fact I've never owned a tractor! I don't think an older one would be a bad place to start. It's easy to go gunho off jump go (hey that rhymed) and get a newer XYZ brand, but..... an older one with cheap hp, FEL, sheer weight might be a good place to start that learning curve. They'll most likely be 2wd but there is 1 major skidder path that a 2wd would make it up easy. I'd cuss like a sailor the 1st time I had to work on it but I'd cuss harder when the truck has no room to carry mom and Junior I think.

Well I'm off to search for older ones. I can find alot of those in town - which is nice! Guys, can't thank you enough for everything thus far. This site is awesome. I'm laying tile this weekend so may not have a chance to look until next week. I'll definetly keep you posted on what I find.

Thanks again!!!!!!!!

Wow, that's got some pretty steep slopes in there. From the topo it looks like you have the easiest slope down from right to left along the top of your property.

I'd seriously consider a winch an pulling things downhill and dragging to that 610' level and working on them there.

Also, that creek looks pretty fast. Where is it on the topo map? Looks like a good candidate for a hydro power station.

 

[AndyMA]

Of the original tractors you mentioned the one no one seesm to have commented on is the Ford / New Holland 2120. This is by far the most tractor of your list. It makes the JD 790 look like a toy. I've had one since 1987 and it has been flawless. Don't let it's hp rating fool you . It is much more tractor than a TC 40/55. It is definately one of Ford's best selling models of al time for good reason. Just remember it is a TC55 with slightly less hp.I would get it and not look back.

Andy

 

[AndyMA]

3. 1997 Ford 2120, FEL, R1, 6'GB, pallet forks, PHD, remotes in rear, canopy, 650h, asking $14.5k
a. Why are these so expensive? It's 10 yrs old yes it's 43hp engine but just seems high..thoughts?

.

BTW That is an excellent price for a 2120 with all that equipment. A typical 2120 with just a loader goes for around $18k. I would put my 2120 up against any other tractor mentioned in this thread. It is just one tough tractor. I have worked the heck out of mine and it keep ticking. I routinely move granite over 2000 pounds. Many times I use it instead of the TN that I also have since it is so manuverable. It is also very stable when compared to the other smaller machines. Just remember it is easy to pack hp in a small frame. The 2120 manages to put the hp is a frame that can actually work.

Andy

 

[woodlandfarms]

I was looking at the topo. Looks like a 1 to 3 Rise over Run. So what is that guys? 25 degrees? Man I am so bad at this.

Either way it looks too steep for a normal tractor. It would be great for an 1850 PT, but I am not sure PT is the best ground pulling tractor out there. Most tractors are comfortable in the 15 to 20 degree range... Most puckers kick in around 15 or so...

I think the winch is the way to go...

Did you check Craigs List BTW? I am learning to appreciate it more and more...

Carl

 

[headleyj]

There is one main skidder path that would be OK I think - this elevation isn't reflected in the topo since the path is manmade and fairly recent (1-2 yrs old).

ROPS a must yes. I see ads for aftermarket ones all the time so I'll need to look into that if needed.

Thanks for the comments on Zetor - always wondered about them and they go fairly cheap in my neck of the woods.

Main creek is wide but no where deep enough for hydro power - it dried up this year, but it was a drought year too.

Oh I've looked on ironsearch, machineryfinder, ebay (have a search that emails me each day), craigslist, auto-rv.com, local classifieds - I'm a classifieds junky - look each morning before work.

I'm used to old trucks, gearing them properly for the terrain to go up/ down hills etc and I think I could manipulate a tractor the same - just don't know what you don't know - ya know. Found a couple IH/ Ford 3000's and a massey 135 all with loaders, 2wd though obviously, for 3-5k. I'll keep looking - winch has definetly been on my brain since we got the property.

The F/NH 2120 would be ideal heck yeah! my buddies grandpa has one and man it's sharp - it jsut takes $ - they print more everyday, just don't float it my way for some reason

We should be done setting the ceramic tile this morning so I should have time to look this afternoon. Thanks again to a helluva great buncha guys and all your advice - it is GREATLY appreciated!!!!!!!

 

[TheCommissioner]

My 43 acres lies about 45 miles southwest of your place and I have steeper slopes than you. I bought a Kubota L3400 HST last summer and haven't once entertained a thought of regret. I go up and down the slopes with ease while being cautious about the hazard. Some here have recommended a winch and I think that's a good idea. I didn't get one because I don't care about wood I can't reach with a logging chain.

 

[Riddler]

It may be out of the question due to budget, but I have found a hydro much less stressful when I work on slopes. Because they brake on their own when you ease back on the gas, you can concentrate on other things. It is also alot easier to feather small moves, which can be a big plus when you've got a good case of pucker going. In some of the spots I have found myself in, a wrong move with the gas, clutch or both on a gear tractor would have made for a bad day. Finally, I don't know how much loader work you plan to do, but it can be tough on a clutch (you have to slip the thing often in the process). I love my gear tractor for mowing, tilling, discing, harrowing, and similar ground engaging work, but for construction type stuff (e.g., loading, grading, hauling, etc.), I much prefer the HST. And one more thing, in terms of reliability, folks alot more experienced than me say that there is no difference.

In terms of dimension, power and set up, my HST is a TC45DA with filled R4s, a 16A loader and 858C BH. It has done everything I have asked it to on my 45 acre place, including the slopes. For a CUT, it is relatively heavy and plenty stable. That said, I am glad I didn't go any smaller, and definitely wouldn't have regretted going even bigger.

Also, I have found that the limitations of the loader and BH impact the work far more often than any limitations presented by the HP of the tractor. In other words, if tractor A has less HP but a more robust loader (and BH) capability than tractor B, I'd opt for tractor A in a heart beat. Of course, hydraulic capability in utility tractors, especially CUTs, is all too often tied directly to HP, so the choice doesn't often present itself.

Just my two cents, FWIW.

 

[Builder]

I got in late on this thread, but here's a tremendous amount of HP & features with an enclosed AC cab for $14,400 !!!!

I have never seen this much tractor for the money. Check this out-twice the tractor of the ones on your original list:

MikePA: Removed link to phony eBay link.

 

[rpoage]

Such a good deal EBay pulled the plug on it.

With high needs and a budget the used market is really interesting. I have seen a lot of good values out there if your have the time to wait and watch. I will have to fess up and say that didn't work for me but I tried.

 

[Rara Avis]

Which is why we are not supposed to post eBay references on this site...

 

[Builder]

"Which is why we are not supposed to post eBay references on this site..."

I was just trying to help..........next time I won't.

 

[Builder]

Maybe this will satisfy the needs of everyone:

http://www.harttractor.com/files/585h.jpg

TractorEquipment4

 

[headleyj]

Well I finally did it. I bought one. I looked and looked, priced and priced - I was set on the Kubota 3400 Hydro or DT I didn't really care which, but finances, closing on the new house (twice) a 7 month old and everything else got the best of me.

I bought an IH504 Utility with a loader, spinouts (already set wide), 350hrs on a rebuild, gasser, PS, very solid mechanical shape with a landpride 6'GB (basically new), Woods 6'BH and a 6' YB with teeth. Like I said before I've never owned a tractor, so the starting small and getting the feel of it thing made sense to me too. I'll take it slow and easy for sure. I've driven a few, but very few.

I've read all the forums here about skidding and the different ways to do it, what not to do etc. so I feel good about that. I feel good about out one main skidder path we have in regards to the slope of it. I'll be careful no doubt. If I dont feel good about it I wont do it - simple as that. There's plenty of trees on the flat part to burn for forewood for a year or 2 atleast. There's hills I wouldn't take a 4wd tractor up on our place!

I'd like to thank every single person here for their help. I sncerely appreciate it. I'm pumped to own one and finally be able to work the land as I see it in my head. I can't thank everyone here enough. It wouldn't have been possible to make an informed decision if it were not for all of you guys and this site. Thanks to TBN and all you great folks!!!!!

 

[IslandTractor]

Congratulations. Now we need pictures of your new family member and stories of the work you'll be doing.

 

[headleyj]

as soon as I get it - should be this weekend, I'll post some for sure. Work I'll be doing is maintaining a 1/4 mile drive, cleaning up 25 ac of logged trees and keeping trails open for riding, walking and simply enjoying the fresh air!

 

[john_bud]

Actually the economics of a good used tractor are hard to beat. You can always remember that the "new tractor smell" wears off after the first or second load of manure!

Just go slow and steady. Use your brain and teach your left leg to hit the clutch peddle hard when things don't feel right. That will save your bacon sooner or later. I've got 2 reflexes that happen quick. 1 - hit the clutch and 2 - raise the 3pt arms. You get that one when you mow and find a rock or stump. Whack whack whack!!

Enjoy!

jb

 

[GinNB]

Have fun with your new toys. Just be VERY careful on hills with a 2WD and a loader. Weight in the loader means less weight on the rear wheels, especially when going downhill. ALL of your brakes are in your rear wheels, so you'll slide quite easily even if your rear differential is locked. Load your rears if they aren't already, use a 3pt counterweight (adds more traction and takes weight off the somewhat delicate front axle, unlike loading your rears), and be ready to lower your loader and DON'T push in the clutch if you start sliding towards something unpleasant like the creek or a few trees while in low gear (engine braking helps). Rocks, twigs, and leaves act like grease and ballbearings.

 

[candersen10]

I wish I posted earlier here. I have 150 very hilly acres and have spent a lot of time moving very large trees around on steep hills. A tractor is entirely the wrong tool. The center of gravity is too high on most and rops are not adequate unless you have serious fops as well. The tool for this job is a skid steer (preferably new holland or john deere because they have the lowest center of gravity) with a set of good wide wheels and an industrial/forestry type grapple.

 

[headleyj]

I wish I posted earlier here. I have 150 very hilly acres and have spent a lot of time moving very large trees around on steep hills. A tractor is entirely the wrong tool. The center of gravity is too high on most and rops are not adequate unless you have serious fops as well. The tool for this job is a skid steer (preferably new holland or john deere because they have the lowest center of gravity) with a set of good wide wheels and an industrial/forestry type grapple.

Man did I ever seriously consider a bobcat/ skidsteer! Problem was $. As to the advice about the hills, 2wd with loader, don't hit the clutch, and be careful.....yep found that out 1st hand a week ago. I was creeping down the one path I have that I felt semi-comfortable with with the yard box on and it broke loose and slid all the way down. Hit the clutch at the last minute out of reflex from trucks - wrong thing to do. Scared the living sh*t outta me. My dumbass decided to "test the waters" on the uphill after I changed my drawers, and sure enough it went about 10 feet and spun out. I parked it and haven't tried it again yet.

I've caught alot of grief and "you're a dumbass" comments but not for the reason you think. These are mainly from people who say "you just don't know how to drive one", I'll come over and drive it out for you. um yeah right. Well it's more a safety concern than experience I say. Long story semi short:

Options:
1. Use an 80' lineman's winch cable to try & pull it up with 2, 3/4 ton trucks.
2. I've found a few 9000 and 10000 lb winches for $300-$400 I could buy that and winch it up (either affix on the tractor or the truck)
3. Drive out on someone elsees property - there's no easy way out, plain and simple. This path is the easiest option
(I will load the yard box up with logs the best and safest I can before coming out of the holler to get as much traction as I can. Rear tires aren't filled....yet)

Soooo, if anyone has any other ideas/ advice I'd greatly appreciate it. It's raining to beat hello now so I'll have to wait for it to dry up a bit.

Yeah don't think the tractor idea is the best solution for this terrain - unless I can cut a new path somewhere - sheesh that would involve a bridge almost.

Anyways, any advice is greatly appreciated here.

 

[GinNB]

You spinning out one tire or two? If one, stomp on your differential lock to get both tires powered. Put some weight on your 3pt hitch and load your bucket. Keep both as low to the ground as possible and crawl your way up in your lowest gear. If you still spin out, I'd either buy a winch if you plan on going up and down there again with that tractor or call a towtruck (if one's handy and cheap) with a winch if you plan on trading for a 4wd. If the towtruck option is too expensive (more than an hour or so), I'd put the money towards a winch even if you plan on trading for 4wd. That way you've still got the winch rather than thanks for paying for the towguy's next vacation.