Tractor is dead...help

[rodeogirl07]

I have a 2014 new holland boomer 24. When I go to start tractor there is nothing....no lights, no clicking, nothing. Tractor is completely dead. I have bought a new ignition switch and replaced the battery. The wiring harness has juice as we tested that. Dont know what else it could be....someone please HELP....I'm desperate to get this tractor going asap as I need it to feed my horses.

 

[sea2summit]

What caused you to replace the ignition and battery? Did you find issues there?

The wiring harness has power in and out? Are the fuzes good? Are you sure there isn't a safety engaged (PTO/seat/clutch/trans). Fluid levels all correct and no issues last time it ran?

 

[rodeogirl07]

We replaced battery as the old battery was old and didnt have enough cold cranking amps in it. We changed the ignition switch because the research we have done lead us to think it was maybe the cause. Fuses are all good and fluid levels are all good. PTO is in off position. I dont see where the seat safety switch is. It ran fine the last time I used it to plow driveway. Parked it and shut it off and hasn't ran since then.

 

[Peter 315]

Did you check the ground cable to the frame....

 

[grsthegreat]

the fact that there are no lights, bypasses all safety switch issues. there is a problem with a ground wire most likely. have someone sit in tractor and try to start unit while someone else twists the battery cables. this is how i found my ground cable was causing starting issues on my tractor. if the cables move at all, thats the problem.

also check spot where ground cable bolts to frame. ofter this requires loosening bolt, cleaning everything with sandpaper and retightening bolt.

 

[Beaver Cove Deere]

My NH 4835 is notorious for a bad ground to the frame. Chased it for a while and got really tired of screwing around. About 4-5 years ago I ground the frame bare, gave it a wad of grease and reattached the ground and covered it all with grease. All better now.

 

[rodeogirl07]

Gonna check the ground and make sure it has a good connection. Thanks everyone for the input.

 

[Wagtail]

As it's a HST; ensure that the range lever is exactly in the Neutral position. ('handbrake' on/engaged)

On my 4105, sometimes the lever will 'look' like it's in Neutral but a slight movement/adjustment will pop it into the actual position.

 

[grsthegreat]

But that would not prevent the lights from working

 

[rhollas927]

I have a 2014 new holland boomer 24. When I go to start tractor there is nothing....no lights, no clicking, nothing. Tractor is completely dead. I have bought a new ignition switch and replaced the battery. The wiring harness has juice as we tested that. Dont know what else it could be....someone please HELP....I'm desperate to get this tractor going asap as I need it to feed my horses.

May have a main fuse blown.

 

[spitter]

check all safty switches first IE nutural, seat , etc.

 

[grsthegreat]

For the third time, it’s not a safety switch. the op said the lights don’t work. Safety switches don’t prevent this from happening, they just interrupt the starter.

 

[skipmarcy]

You have to have at least a very basic knowledge of a 12 vdc system in order to TROUBLESHOOT a problem - "research" on youtube or advice from one of these parts store mechanics and firing the parts cannon at it probably won't do anything but flush your wallet. In rare cases you might hit across the problem if you're lucky. Simple use of a VOM will find your problem. Get one of those parts store jockeys to sell you a cheap one and find a friend that has at least a basic understanding of electrical operation to help you.

 

[AWSubie]

Check the relays on the firewall.

 

[sd455dan]

If a bad ground has been eliminated,

Does this tractor employ a fusible link? generally located near the starter main battery B+ post on starter in the lead going to the Ignition switch on some tractors.

A schematic for this machine would be helpful.

As posted a VOM is really helpful to track down the problem.

 

[the old grind]

May have a main fuse blown.

It's probably on a wire vs on a fuse panel. My NHs are all this way.

Check the relays on the firewall.

Switch 'em around and see if the problem moves too.

 

[tomplum]

I know that the battery is new, but that doesn't mean that it is good. Having it load tested is a good place to start.

 

[the old grind]

Look for this guy under the hood, trace from there. He'll likely be hanging in a capsule on a wire vs near the fuse panel, connects the battery to the alternator and everything else in/on the tractor. If he goes out nothing works. Work back from the alternator if location isn't obvious.

 

[WranglerX]

A simple tool I like for trouble shooting is this.... IF you have clip on correct ground ( at battery is best) and are probing and lamp lights you have power if lamp is dark you are either on a ground lead or have no power (12 volts) ....

Another great problem solver is this... Use it to prevent corrosion on all electrical connections...

Sounds like from initial post the problem can be initially ground connection between battery and chassis or primary 12 volt side between battery (through any master fuse/fusible link) to initial distribution fuse panel and/or ignition switch.... From initial description of problem it would seem to me that going through all the safety switches is looking for love in all the wrong places.....

Also check battery and ground cable for corrosion under the insulation, some times the corrosion (problem) is invisible to the eye...

Dale

 

[CoyPatton]

A simple tool I like for trouble shooting is this.... IF you have clip on correct ground ( at battery is best) and are probing and lamp lights you have power if lamp is dark you are either on a ground lead or have no power (12 volts) ....

Another great problem solver is this... Use it to prevent corrosion on all electrical connections...

Sounds like from initial post the problem can be initially ground connection between battery and chassis or primary 12 volt side between battery (through any master fuse/fusible link) to initial distribution fuse panel and/or ignition switch.... From initial description of problem it would seem to me that going through all the safety switches is looking for love in all the wrong places.....

Also check battery and ground cable for corrosion under the insulation, some times the corrosion (problem) is invisible to the eye...

Dale

I agree with Dale in this assessment. The first few things I would check out
•test that new battery
•they test light is useful for areas where you want 12 volts (the good test lights do 12 volts and 6 volts)
•test your cables. You need a electrical multimeter if you do not have one. If you do not know what an electrical multimeter is, find a friend or a friend of a friend that owns one already and understands ohms, voltage and resistance, and if really good current flow. It is a fairly good meter that measures AC and DC current flow.
•look for that inline fuse (fusible link) on the main battery cable to the battery. A secondary location is to the ignition switch (if your lights bypass your ignition switch it won’t be on your ignition switch since you have no lights).
Test lights are inexpensive, but if you have basic understanding of 12 volt electrical systems, I suggest at a minimum a good quality automotive multimeter. Sensors circuits require test results often in the decimal ranges of voltage, making test lights and analog meters next to unusable beyond learning if voltage is present.