We all know that (pucker) feeling when driving a tractor sideways on an incline. Is there any information on how to determine a safe angle of tilt? Do wheel weights and loaded tires make any difference on turn over? When going from smaller tractor to a larger one with a wider wheel base how much does the rollover decrease? Would having a bush hog attached low to the ground help or just be neutral? I wonder if one had a simple inclinometer, would this be of any help?
dodge man
Super Star Member
I’ve seen people with some kind of indicator mounted on there hood or dash. Loaded tires help a lot. I went from a Kubota BX to a JD 2025r. The JD sits taller but is wider and actually feels more stable, I have loaded tires in back.
RjCorazza
Elite Member
There are way too many variables to determine a safe incline in anything but laboratory like conditions.
I have loaded rears, which definitely help on slopes. I also have an inclometer that I bought years ago (I think from TBN?). The inclometer can be a liability if other indicators or experience are ignored, but for me... I get nervous on a relatively safe slope of 10 degrees when on the tractor, but routinely run across a 28 degree slope on my zero turn.
I have loaded rears, which definitely help on slopes. I also have an inclometer that I bought years ago (I think from TBN?). The inclometer can be a liability if other indicators or experience are ignored, but for me... I get nervous on a relatively safe slope of 10 degrees when on the tractor, but routinely run across a 28 degree slope on my zero turn.
CalG
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As stated above, too many variables.
There are many references to tractor roll overs on the interweb. My take on the reading of them has been that "most" roll overs are due to INERTIA. That is, on an incline, front wheel hits a dip or bump, the steady state is overwhelmed by inertia. Over you go.
There are many references to tractor roll overs on the interweb. My take on the reading of them has been that "most" roll overs are due to INERTIA. That is, on an incline, front wheel hits a dip or bump, the steady state is overwhelmed by inertia. Over you go.
Thanks for the replies. I have loaded tires and also rear wheel weights on two tractors. I suspect that getting older makes one become more cautious. Have never turned one over but I know the feeling of being on a slope and running over something with the upper wheel. On relative smooth but sloping land I have been trying to come up with an angle that is safe without being too cautious. Again thanks for any thoughts on this.
jeepcoma
Silver Member
The problem of "pucker factor" is that it's based on your personal comfort level based on the angle of the tractor, the speed you're going, how busy you are, how it's the last run you need to make and you really just want to get the job done, etc etc.
As the operator on top of the seat you have no actual knowledge as to where the center of gravity is, and therefore, whether you are in a danger zone or not.
Pucker factor is reduced over time as you accumulate knowledge via "well that felt scary but it didn't tip, so I guess it's OK". I know that's true for me, I'm probably operating at twice the angle now without fear compared to what caused pucker factor initially. That leads to complacency. What's stable with the MMM and nothing attached front and rear might be a rollover with the FEL, some weight in the bucket, and then some elevation of the bucket.
I wish there was a better answer. I'm sure the engineers designing these machines know (since the ROPS has to work, and they've done the math). For us operators, the process seems to be, put the ROPS up, seatbelt on, and then use the guess-and-check method. If it doesn't roll, you're good. When it rolls, you didn't follow the manufactures instructions and were not operating safely, so too bad.
As the operator on top of the seat you have no actual knowledge as to where the center of gravity is, and therefore, whether you are in a danger zone or not.
Pucker factor is reduced over time as you accumulate knowledge via "well that felt scary but it didn't tip, so I guess it's OK". I know that's true for me, I'm probably operating at twice the angle now without fear compared to what caused pucker factor initially. That leads to complacency. What's stable with the MMM and nothing attached front and rear might be a rollover with the FEL, some weight in the bucket, and then some elevation of the bucket.
I wish there was a better answer. I'm sure the engineers designing these machines know (since the ROPS has to work, and they've done the math). For us operators, the process seems to be, put the ROPS up, seatbelt on, and then use the guess-and-check method. If it doesn't roll, you're good. When it rolls, you didn't follow the manufactures instructions and were not operating safely, so too bad.
David in KY
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Being a city-slicker and first-time tractor owner when I arrived here, I read a lot of wisdom on these pages regarding tractor safety. In particular, because of the hilly terrain where I live, I was concerned with a roll over accident. In addition to all the cautions I read, I decided to mount an inclinometer forward of my steering wheel. Fast forward a few years later, I remain accident free, yet ever vigilant. I can attest to the inclinometer helping me to gauge the risks that I face, and perhaps calibrating my senses to know as danger approaches.
On my ground, there is only a small portion that is level. The vast majority is sloped from 6% to 30%. Also, the direction of the slope in relation to the direction of tractor operation (up-down vs cross-slope) can be the difference in upsetting your stability. I often have to pick up a load, slowly maneuver to a safe orientation to the hill, then proceed to transport the load. You become more comfortable over time, building confidence each day. But don't rush things. The price is very high!
BTW, I have an open station tractor with ROPS, loaded rear tires, always carry a heavy 3PH implement, and I ALWAYS wear my seat belt.
Take your time, be smart and deliberate about movements, and you'll be alright.
Here's the model I bought: Rieker Mechanical Inclinometer
I took a piece of aluminum angle, cut to length of the meter, attached the meter, and fastened two rubber encased magnets as feet, which stick to the frame of the tractor hood. I move it to the tool box when parked, so the sun and weather don't beat on it.
All the best.
On my ground, there is only a small portion that is level. The vast majority is sloped from 6% to 30%. Also, the direction of the slope in relation to the direction of tractor operation (up-down vs cross-slope) can be the difference in upsetting your stability. I often have to pick up a load, slowly maneuver to a safe orientation to the hill, then proceed to transport the load. You become more comfortable over time, building confidence each day. But don't rush things. The price is very high!
BTW, I have an open station tractor with ROPS, loaded rear tires, always carry a heavy 3PH implement, and I ALWAYS wear my seat belt.
Take your time, be smart and deliberate about movements, and you'll be alright.
Here's the model I bought: Rieker Mechanical Inclinometer
I took a piece of aluminum angle, cut to length of the meter, attached the meter, and fastened two rubber encased magnets as feet, which stick to the frame of the tractor hood. I move it to the tool box when parked, so the sun and weather don't beat on it.
All the best.
David in KY
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Liquid "ballast" filled tires.
ultrarunner
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The off road supply houses sell incline gages.
Going a cross a side hill that should have been ok turned into a roll over for a friend when his loaded rear tire hit a soft spot from ground squirrels… it didn’t take much
Going a cross a side hill that should have been ok turned into a roll over for a friend when his loaded rear tire hit a soft spot from ground squirrels… it didn’t take much
CliffordK
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One of the things I did on my tractor was it had an adjustable mount on the wheels. I flipped the wheels out as far as they would go, effectively adding about a foot of width to the tractor. Perhaps not a lot, but every little bit counts.
You could probably find the tipping point of your tractor on the level by either jacking up one side, or winching the tractor over until it tips. Safety straps to catch it may not be a bad idea.
Then once you have a tipping spot, add a safety margin.
You could probably find the tipping point of your tractor on the level by either jacking up one side, or winching the tractor over until it tips. Safety straps to catch it may not be a bad idea.
Then once you have a tipping spot, add a safety margin.
YLee Kioti
Veteran Member
Inclinometers | Slope Grade Degree Indicator For Sale | R&B MFG. INC
We started making manual inclinometers in 1996 at the request of a major equipment manufacturer. Soon, other equipment manufacturers started calling. Learn more!
www.tiltmeter.com
Call her up. She has had the meter built to state standard for their machines. I never go past 11 degrees, it my tractor. Though 15 degrees is the yellow zone. Been using it for about fours now. The vertical part helps when backing into the creek to mow.
10 degrees with bucket nearly touching the ground.
It's very tiring as the creek is about 350 foot long and mow both sides. Thinking of getting hedge trimmer attachment to weed eater and walking it down cutting that way.
WinterDeere
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Every sailing outfitter sells these, although they call them clinometers or "heel indicators". Here's the one mounted to the rear grating of one of my boats, they usually cost under $20.
LouNY
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Interesting, my driveway has a 14-16 degree climb. Working on it sideways has a bit of a pucker factor.Inclinometers | Slope Grade Degree Indicator For Sale | R&B MFG. INC
We started making manual inclinometers in 1996 at the request of a major equipment manufacturer. Soon, other equipment manufacturers started calling. Learn more!
Call her up. She has had the meter built to state standard for their machines. I never go past 11 degrees, it my tractor. Though 15 degrees is the yellow zone. Been using it for about fours now. The vertical part helps when backing into the creek to mow.
10 degrees with bucket nearly touching the ground.
It's very tiring as the creek is about 350 foot long and mow both sides. Thinking of getting hedge trimmer attachment to weed eater and walking it down cutting that way.
WinterDeere
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One of the issues with trusting a clinometer (or inclinometer) is that the rollover threshold for any tractor must change a lot, depending not only on what's in the loader bucket, but also on how high you carry that bucket or your rear ballast.
My lawn is very hilly, particularly the back yard, and there are areas where I just cannot go straight up and down the slope, I have to be at least partly sideways to it. I always make sure to carry both my rear ballast and loader bucket as low as I can manage in these areas, knowing it vastly increases stability over having either higher in the air.
My lawn is very hilly, particularly the back yard, and there are areas where I just cannot go straight up and down the slope, I have to be at least partly sideways to it. I always make sure to carry both my rear ballast and loader bucket as low as I can manage in these areas, knowing it vastly increases stability over having either higher in the air.
Torvy
Super Member
Those meters are great and all, but speed and a rock or a hole can dump you over even if your incline is 'green'. The incline adds to your risk, certainly. For me, having a meter would likely add to a dangerous level of complacency. Ymmv.
I am probably overly cautious, but my life doesn't depend on anything I'm doing with my tractor. It certainly isn't worth the risk to push the limits.
Basic physics things can help. Wider stance. Lower center of gravity. Weight in the seat (wheels). Inertia (slower is better). Keep your loader as low as is practical. Similar to driving on ice, sudden changes are not your friend.
I am probably overly cautious, but my life doesn't depend on anything I'm doing with my tractor. It certainly isn't worth the risk to push the limits.
Basic physics things can help. Wider stance. Lower center of gravity. Weight in the seat (wheels). Inertia (slower is better). Keep your loader as low as is practical. Similar to driving on ice, sudden changes are not your friend.
vagem55
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Kubota B3030 with loaded tires and wheel spacers for me. Cheap inclinometer mounted below the speedometer. Amazon.com
dstriplett
Bronze Member
As someone said above, the critical rollover angle is a dynamic number with all kinds of variables and combination of variables. The most critical are the vertical center of gravity and SPEED. You also must rehearse beforehand what your reactions are going to be if you feel a rear wheel coming off the ground. You have to be quick in your response and you won't have time to sit there and think it thru once you cross the Rubicon. Keep the CG as low as possible, go as slow as possible, and rehearse your immediate action steps to where you can do them without thinking about it. A mechanical inclinometer tells you basically nothing of use as it measures static angles - which your roll over angle is not.
On my 55hp New Holland, it had a narrow wheel base. I just swapped the rear tires side to side. The dish of each tire is now out and literally made a difference of almost 2 ft. In width. Now, with the turf tires, I don't think it can turn over. The tires will slip down the slope before rollover. Tread pattern matters.
