TRACTOR SLUNG PTO SHAFT!!! - PICS.

[Williy]

When I want to use the PTO I am at idle turn
the knob to start the PTO then slowly raise RPM's
up to 2200 and when I go to shut it down its at idle
then turn it off. Am I wrong in doing it like this???
shut the tractor down before I will attach anything
to the PTO. To hole the shaft to the yoke I only
have a #5 bolt that's the way it came also have
a slip clutch on the RC

willy.

 

[Fallon]

When I want to use the PTO I am at idle turn
the knob to start the PTO then slowly raise RPM's
up to 2200 and when I go to shut it down its at idle
then turn it off. Am I wrong in doing it like this???
shut the tractor down before I will attach anything
to the PTO. To hole the shaft to the yoke I only
have a #5 bolt that's the way it came also have
a slip clutch on the RC

willy.

Always engage the PTO at idle or close to it. I have yo bump up the RPMs slightly to engage my heavy flail mower or it might stall. Once engaged I generally just kick the throttle all the way up. Doesn't er how fast or slow once the clutchbis engaged. My flail has an overrunning clutch. So it doesn't matter what RPM I disengage at. The flail will keep spinning for a minute or 2 regardless. PTO shaft stops quickly though. Most of my other impliments are low inertia. Should probably idle down to disengage, but often don't.

 

[IndyIan]

Found that out this weekend when back to mowing.. Made sure I was slipping enough to soften the blow on engagement but seemed like was still slipping a bit more than it should in taller grass. Carried tools with me and just cranked down the clutch screws 1/4 turn at a time until the slipping in tall grass was (almost) non-existent. Seems like it still takes a big of a jolt on engagement but not as bad as before. Seemed like engaging at idle with RC all the way to the ground in taller grass soften the impact a little on engagement and let the clutch do its job. If the RC breaks - will be good really excuse to buy a bigger one!

My tractor has the same electric over hydraulic switch for the pto, and I broke the gr5 shear bolt on my 5' RC hitting the switch at near 540 pto rpm. The circlip was installed on the cutter shaft and held the pto shaft in place though, so there was no carnage.
Now when I was hooked up to a 5' round baler I stopped for some reason with about 4' of bale made and had to hit the switch with at probably 300 pto rpm(so the tractor wouldn't stall), and it started the round baler quite smoothly!
I wonder if the internal tractor pto clutch gets sticky from never slipping when starting a small pto load? My tractor also has an automatic pto engagement feature that it will start whenever you lower the 3pt and stop when you raise it, so it must be designed to engage fairly smoothly, but with a small rotary cutter, maybe it never slips at all and sticks after a while?

 

[TexasDigger]

My tractor has the same electric over hydraulic switch for the pto, and I broke the gr5 shear bolt on my 5' RC hitting the switch at near 540 pto rpm. The circlip was installed on the cutter shaft and held the pto shaft in place though, so there was no carnage.
Now when I was hooked up to a 5' round baler I stopped for some reason with about 4' of bale made and had to hit the switch with at probably 300 pto rpm(so the tractor wouldn't stall), and it started the round baler quite smoothly!
I wonder if the internal tractor pto clutch gets sticky from never slipping when starting a small pto load? My tractor also has an automatic pto engagement feature that it will start whenever you lower the 3pt and stop when you raise it, so it must be designed to engage fairly smoothly, but with a small rotary cutter, maybe it never slips at all and sticks after a while?

Haven't had a a chance to run anything larger on mine so not sure. I did talk to the guys at Larry Stovesand Equipment and they said the switch is basically just on/off and the only way to decrease the "hit" is to lower RPM's. They did recommend coming up from idle a couple hundred RPM's though for the hydraulics to flow more smoothly when engaging but sounded like no way to avoid the "hit" besides throttling down when you turn on the switch. Not sure if I would trust the auto on/off with a $5k tiller on the raise/lower feature - definitely not without a slip-clutch! If you keep breaking the sheer bolts on your RC even when throttling down, slip clutch is really only option to prevent having to replace the the sheer bolt all the time.

 

[IndyIan]

Haven't had a a chance to run anything larger on mine so not sure. I did talk to the guys at Larry Stovesand Equipment and they said the switch is basically just on/off and the only way to decrease the "hit" is to lower RPM's. They did recommend coming up from idle a couple hundred RPM's though for the hydraulics to flow more smoothly when engaging but sounded like no way to avoid the "hit" besides throttling down when you turn on the switch. Not sure if I would trust the auto on/off with a $5k tiller on the raise/lower feature - definitely not without a slip-clutch! If you keep breaking the sheer bolts on your RC even when throttling down, slip clutch is really only option to prevent having to replace the the sheer bolt all the time.

Oh yes, I always drop the rpms down to idle for the RC, and I put gr8 bolt in... it was breaking the gr5's pretty easily hitting minor stuff like ant hills.... Maybe a bad idea but my RC has a nice round stump jumper so it should fold the blades and save itself? I guess from your experience I know I don't want to break the input shaft on the cutter, as stuff will be flailing around!
I have ran a small square baler and it started up pretty smoothly as well. I'd have to look at my service manual tonight, but I'm quite sure there is still a pto clutch, its just engaged hydraulically now when you flick the switch.

 

[5030]

Always engage the PTO at idle or close to it. I have yo bump up the RPMs slightly to engage my heavy flail mower or it might stall. Once engaged I generally just kick the throttle all the way up. Doesn't er how fast or slow once the clutchbis engaged. My flail has an overrunning clutch. So it doesn't matter what RPM I disengage at. The flail will keep spinning for a minute or 2 regardless. PTO shaft stops quickly though. Most of my other impliments are low inertia. Should probably idle down to disengage, but often don't.

Once you euchre your inherently weak Kubota PTO wet brake you will, but then you have an over running clutch on the implement so you are good to go. If there is no ratchet clutch, I stick on a over running clutch on the pto stub. You don't want to ever replace that pto brake as it entails splitting the tractor.

 

[scootr]

Good thread. Good reminder to keep a couple of those #2 shear bolts in the tractor tool box.
Saves wasted time going back to the barn

 

[Sawyer Rob]

Once you euchre your inherently weak Kubota PTO wet brake you will, but then you have an over running clutch on the implement so you are good to go. If there is no ratchet clutch, I stick on a over running clutch on the pto stub. You don't want to ever replace that pto brake as it entails splitting the tractor.

Why would you replace it??

I'm glad my tractors don't have one, and if it did and I wore it out, yeaaa... lol

SR

 

[5030]

Because with no working pto brake the stub turns constantly so tell us how do you attach a pto shaft to a rotating stub???

 

[ptsg]

Because with no working pto brake the stub turns constantly so tell us how do you attach a pto shaft to a rotating stub???

Put the PTO in Neutral.