Sounds like a "safety switch" blocking the circuits to the starter. As others have mentioned, check PTO, neutral, also the seat. Mine (HST) also has a clutch switch. The safety police MUST protect us at all costs!!!
tractor won't start... help me troubleshoot it.
- Thread starter MikeS_in_GA
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OP
MikeS_in_GA
Bronze Member
I took the starter into AutoZone and it tested out as fine. I'll have to look for all the safety switches the next time I am out at the farm.
Thanks for the tips everyone!!
Thanks for the tips everyone!!
Take a multi-meter with you. Make sure all your neutral safety switch's are working properly... check for continuity on the safety switches. Use your multi-meter to see if you have battery voltage coming out of your ignition switch when ignition is turned far enough to activate the starter. If your ok there, trace down thru to the fuse box/circuit breaker/main fuse, that goes to the starter relay. Be sure to check your fusebox for faulty or loose or blown fuse`s. Pull each fuse and check them.
I`m no expert on kubota tractors, but i do know automobiles very well with 40yrs experience turning wrench`s for a living... take a look into the fuel pump circuit. Automobiles today have a circuit that cuts power to the starter if the fuel pump is not working properly. Its a longshot, but worth thinking about.
I`m no expert on kubota tractors, but i do know automobiles very well with 40yrs experience turning wrench`s for a living... take a look into the fuel pump circuit. Automobiles today have a circuit that cuts power to the starter if the fuel pump is not working properly. Its a longshot, but worth thinking about.
OP
MikeS_in_GA
Bronze Member
Thanks.
the battery failed its test, so I put in a new one today. Still didn't start. I did find that a rat ate through a headlight wire, so I am wondering if it didn't get another wire somewhere else. I'll bring the multi meter next time.
Tx Jim
New Member
Did you clean/tighten where negative cable attaches to frame? My guess is faulty neutral start switch or associated wiring.
bspeedy
Platinum Member
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- Kubota L4330, Ford 1700, JD 2210, Takeuchi TB135 Excavator
Use a pair of heavy duty jumper cables and bypass your ground wire from battery to frame and the positive wire to the starter. My L3710 had the same symptoms and it was an internally corroded positive cable. Everything looked fine, but it was corroded inside.
Not sure if someone mentioned it but you must make sure none of the ptos are engaged. Also my B3030 hydrostatic unit will not start if the pedal is not exactly in the center position. I often have to juggle the pedal to get it to start otherwise there is nothing, not even a click.
Spanner
Veteran Member
It's really important, for armchair diagnostics, to differentiate between "Tractor Won't Start" (TWS) and "Engine Won't Crank" (EWC). They are different situations.
You have already gone to major work by removing the starter motor for testing. Let's slow down...
One of your posts alluded to the fault being "EWC"
Start with the Battery. Well, we now know it failed the "Test" so a new battery is fitted.
The connections need to be clean, shiny and tightly secured.
From there trace power to the Ignition Switch, Fuse Block and check all safety interlock switches. Clutch or Brake switches and PTO and Gear Range Shift switches are all candidates for checking.
Now this is important: Take someone with you who is capable of stomping on the brake and can shut the tractor off if it starts by chance while you are working at ground level with Jumper Cables and/or bypassing wiring etc. Soldier B could save your life.
Otherwise always be sitting on the seat when you turn the ignition switch to "Start".
Tractor manufacturers installed Safety Interlock circuitry to protect operators from themselves. Too many were run-over by their own tractor when starting from the ground.
Now, if the fault is the other TWS (i.e. The engine will crank but not fire-up and run) you are probably looking for a fuel issue or a fault to the electric fuel stop solenoid.
Diagnostics is following a logical path in sequence. Pulling the starter motor before checking battery power/connections is not smart Diagnostics.
Regards,
:wrench:
You have already gone to major work by removing the starter motor for testing. Let's slow down...
One of your posts alluded to the fault being "EWC"
Start with the Battery. Well, we now know it failed the "Test" so a new battery is fitted.
The connections need to be clean, shiny and tightly secured.
From there trace power to the Ignition Switch, Fuse Block and check all safety interlock switches. Clutch or Brake switches and PTO and Gear Range Shift switches are all candidates for checking.
Now this is important: Take someone with you who is capable of stomping on the brake and can shut the tractor off if it starts by chance while you are working at ground level with Jumper Cables and/or bypassing wiring etc. Soldier B could save your life.
Otherwise always be sitting on the seat when you turn the ignition switch to "Start".
Tractor manufacturers installed Safety Interlock circuitry to protect operators from themselves. Too many were run-over by their own tractor when starting from the ground.
Now, if the fault is the other TWS (i.e. The engine will crank but not fire-up and run) you are probably looking for a fuel issue or a fault to the electric fuel stop solenoid.
Diagnostics is following a logical path in sequence. Pulling the starter motor before checking battery power/connections is not smart Diagnostics.
Regards,
:wrench: