Tractors and wood! Show your pics

[Sawyer Rob]

Imagine winching a log up a hill. You see a problem, so let go of the winch rope to stop. If the brake did not automatically set upon winch release, the log would be rumpling back down the hill until you grabbed the brake line and set the brake. If that prblem you saw was a kid or your dog sniffing around the action, that delay could be a big problem. So the brake acts automatically. If you need slack, you can make that happen at your leisure.

That's an easy one to answer, with my winch I just hold both ropes IF I'm worried i may need the brake pulling up hill.

In all the years I've been winching, I've never needed to use that trick though.

SR

 

[Gordon Gould]

To me there are so many variables working in the woods there is no one winch braking system that is always the best. There are times when applying the brake immediately and automatically is good or convenient but there are also times when applying the brake automatically when you when you stop pulling is the last thing you want to do. For instance just one example is when working in a thick softwood stand I will sometimes cut a tree and purposely lean it against it's neighbors not having anywhere else to put it. Then choke it as low as possible and winch the butt off the stump towards the tractor letting the top slide down the thick neighbors as it is winched out. If the top should start coming over instead of the butt pulling off the stump you better let the line go slack in a hurry and allow the top to lean back again instead of coming over towards you.

On Norse winches (which I do not own) you can select if you want the automatic pawl brake or not by moving a lever . I think that is a nice feature. Helps keep your options open.

gg

 

[Hoobie]

The chokers I bought ready-made are all about 6 feet. (If you want an exactl length, I can go out and measure one.) I do have one longer one I made up for larger logs.

As Jstpssng mentions, you do want some tail on the end. Not only is it easier to hook up, it's also handy when using a self releasing snatch block. The point where the choker attaches to the winch cable is what releases the snatch block. Sometimes you want it to release just a bit before the logs get all the way to the snatch block. You can always make the tail shorter if you want to delay the release simply by pulling more of the chain through the keyhole on the slider on the winch cable. But having that extra couple of feet comes in handy on some pulls (for instance, if my anchor for the snatch block is buried back in among some saplings or other obstacles, I want it to release BEFORE I pull the log all the way up to the anchor point.)

Excellent point. Took me a while to catch onto that when I bought my wallenstein winch years ago.

 

[Skeans1]

Have you guys ever thought about trying cable chokers they’re a lot easier to deal with, plus you can push them through stuff. This is a cat style choker my personal favorite since it separates the main line from the chokers.

 

[VroomVroom]

To me there are so many variables working in the woods there is no one winch braking system that is always the best. There are times when applying the brake immediately and automatically is good or convenient but there are also times when applying the brake automatically when you when you stop pulling is the last thing you want to do. For instance just one example is when working in a thick softwood stand I will sometimes cut a tree and purposely lean it against it's neighbors not having anywhere else to put it. Then choke it as low as possible and winch the butt off the stump towards the tractor letting the top slide down the thick neighbors as it is winched out. If the top should start coming over instead of the butt pulling off the stump you better let the line go slack in a hurry and allow the top to lean back again instead of coming over towards you.

On Norse winches (which I do not own) you can select if you want the automatic pawl brake or not by moving a lever . I think that is a nice feature. Helps keep your options open.

gg

Yes I could see that being necessary. I’ve watched a few videos of people pulling standing trees. I often wondered if the tree sometimes fell across a tensioned cable, it would break something or flip the tractor. You probably could do like sr mentioned too, and pull both ropes simultaneously, the clutch and brake. Maybe I’ll shoot off an email to find out. Wish my trailer was fixed. I’d like to use it a bit, mostly to see if I’m gonna have pto trouble. It’s too fine of a line from engaged, to not engaged on its linkage.

 

[Jstpssng]

Yes I could see that being necessary. I’ve watched a few videos of people pulling standing trees. I often wondered if the tree sometimes fell across a tensioned cable, it would break something or flip the tractor. You probably could do like sr mentioned too, and pull both ropes simultaneously, the clutch and brake. Maybe I’ll shoot off an email to find out. Wish my trailer was fixed. I’d like to use it a bit, mostly to see if I’m gonna have pto trouble. It’s too fine of a line from engaged, to not engaged on its linkage.

There's no need, your winch is an entirely different setup than SR's. The clutch is the brake. These are somewhat similar to the clutch on a skidder.

 

[Skeans1]

There's no need, your winch is an entirely different setup than SR's. The clutch is the brake. These are somewhat similar to the clutch on a skidder.

Do these winches have the power spool out feature like some of the bigger winches?

 

[Jstpssng]

Do these winches have the power spool out feature like some of the bigger winches?

No

 

[fruitcakesa]

If you use it much, will you consider getting an arch to get the butts up out of the dirt?

The winch has an arch mounted above so I can get some butt lift with it depending on log diameter

 

[fruitcakesa]

Do these winches have the power spool out feature like some of the bigger winches?

No, just free spool.