trail clearing technique and tools

[ArlyA]

That's one possibility. MATERIALS, however, matter.

I have to cut large swaths of grass (between fence and ditch): if not for the ditch I'd be running a tractor. Thicker and stronger material is going to beat the snot out of my fence: the .105 line is more than a match (at speed) for the metal fencing! (while it's not going to break the stays it DOES bend them- which is why I pulse trigger when running right up along the fence; also swing the trimmer so that it's rotating in the same direction I'm want to cut as this reduces the overall, apparent, speed to soften the inevitable blow to the fence's vertical stays).

And, yes, I understand how to use a string trimmer. Thick stuff you drop down on: but if it's really hard/thick, you're going to have to saw- one could hardly think to drop a chainsaw on top of a tree!

Maybe a little history would be good. We started running large string when another club borrowed us there old husky they had put a 2 string head on it that would hold .155. This was about 20 years ago. After using that we got our own and used it alongside steel blades on other units. And over the years we tried every string diameter and style was tested and found the larger was better and we could cut much more as the sizes went up. We typically would have one steel and two string units running at the same time. Since we had volunteers with us using machines, the steel balded ones would be knocked into rocks all the time, sparks go flying so we didn't like to give them to some folks. Over those years, we pretty much tried all string types and manufactures. Some would cut better, but might last less long, so its a trade off. Today we stick with string we get in 3 pound spools and its pretty reasonably priced in bulk. Like this.

Amazon.com : Oregon 22-855 Heavy-Duty Professional Magnum Gatorline Square String Trimmer Line .155-Inch Diameter 3-Pound Spool (Renewed) : Patio, Lawn & Garden

Amazon.com : Oregon 22-855 Heavy-Duty Professional Magnum Gatorline Square String Trimmer Line .155-Inch Diameter 3-Pound Spool (Renewed) : Patio, Lawn & Garden

www.amazon.com

https://www.amazon.com/Oregon-Heavy...5+whacker+string+spool&qid=1632093084&sr=8-10

And we used 3 string cam lock heads for years and years. Last year we got our 1st 4 string head from Stihl who claims will be coming out with one that's .170 capable. Do note, these large strings take lots of power to spinn.

 

[DieselBound]

Background DOES help, and I don't doubt your experiences at all. I'm merely wishing to note that material strength is also part of the equation. .105 line by other manufacturers was FAR inferior to the Titanium line, and this is not an over-exaggeration. As you note concerns about spinning larger mass, a lighter mass has advantages (fuel usage being one big one). I have sufficiently more grass (now) to cut than thick brush (though I DO get some of that among the grasses). My string holds up very well and I can run it long and run on a tank of fuel longer than I would be able to do with greater mass: keep in mind the saying that "speed kills;" this string is touted as being faster to spin up (and I believe it).

For anyone interested in an excellent line, the reviews tell the story (over 4k reviews and a 4.6 rating). Here's one, but for the .095 line:

Best String out there

Best String out there, I have used every brand made and not one come close to the Titanium string, I work for the National Park Service and we cut miles of campgrounds, roadsides, and unbelievably rough country, get this if you want the best.

Here's some of the work that I do with my trimmer and string (Reed Canary grass, mostly, with various other stuff, some woody, in as well; ditch to the right and I cannot get any machinery in here):

[Deep] Ditch and road to the left in this pic. This is the only significant stretch that I have to resort to this. Had little choice when putting in the fence: normally I opt for ease of maintenance, but too many trees would have to be removed and I will do whatever I can to not take down trees if I don't have to. Am still scheming of ways to get my smaller tractor (or riding mower) here: maybe a portable bridge across the ditch...

Because I have to be careful to not snag the fence (bend it up) I tend to just blip the throttle when right up against the bottom of the fence. Any heavier cutting material would be problematic for this.

There are differing needs. I'm just wanting to point on what have been successful for me. I've had a lot of exposure to my environment, a LOT of brush cutting involved (and now increasing more grass).

 

[bdhsfz6]

No not really cheating, but you have more $$$ than we do! You also can't use that on single track trails which we do miles of each summer.. If you go back a few posts you'll note, we are trying to get a tow-behind flail mower for logging roads we do.

Yeah, the offset flail was spendy but not that much more than the old brushog I had to replace anyway. The flail does double duty in the pasture as well as the trails. It also makes quick work of the side & overhanging growth which the brushog wouldn't.

I also looked at the cheaper Lane Shark articulating mower but it's 44" cut was too narrow for pasture work.

 

[DieselBound]

Here's a 45" pull-behind flail:

ATV pull behind flail mower

I got my 7' (tractor/PTO-driven) one from them, and while I've had a couple issues with it they were mostly assembly issues (recommend going over everything before first use!).

There are others out there. Mulching flails (hammers) would be a requirement. I'd want a center pull for trails: many are offset with the expectation of cutting grass in open spaces.

 

[ArlyA]

Here's a 45" pull-behind flail:

ATV pull behind flail mower

I got my 7' (tractor/PTO-driven) one from them, and while I've had a couple issues with it they were mostly assembly issues (recommend going over everything before first use!).

There are others out there. Mulching flails (hammers) would be a requirement. I'd want a center pull for trails: many are offset with the expectation of cutting grass in open spaces.

here is the one most likely we'd get. trail clearing technique and tools

 

[ArlyA]

Here's a 45" pull-behind flail:

ATV pull behind flail mower

I got my 7' (tractor/PTO-driven) one from them, and while I've had a couple issues with it they were mostly assembly issues (recommend going over everything before first use!).

There are others out there. Mulching flails (hammers) would be a requirement. I'd want a center pull for trails: many are offset with the expectation of cutting grass in open spaces.

The Champan mower sure looks heavier duty than that one. Cost about twice as much too.

 

[DieselBound]

Yeah, I ran across British ones as well (and also noted that they looked stout). It's hard to compare units without listing all the specs (weight provides a bit of a clue). Sadly, if you can't a get a hold of a certain brand/model then it's like it doesn't exist: and should you have to deal with getting parts?

EVERY unit has limitations. Knowing what they are and operating within those is the trick. My flail is a whole lot more delicate than my rotary cutter; I have to make myself operate the flail with that understanding (if it was a less heavy duty model I'd have to adjust for that as well).

I was pretty sure I wanted/needed a flail (desired extra cutting width [less passes means less turns means quicker] and the ability the shift the flail for cutting along ditches and in to light brush). Never used a flail before. The top level flails that met my basic requirements were around $6k. The thought that I could shell out $6k (or more) and find that I didn't like the flail made me apprehensive. I usually figure I can turn around and sell something, but in my area flails, for CUTs, aren't very common; there may not be a market (when you're talking about something that weighs 1,200 lbs shipping tends to force you into a local market). The flail that I ended up with has specs that rival those of the expensive units, and almost 1/2 the price. I figure the worst that could happen by buying the less expensive flail is that I might find myself losing $1k to $2k. Could I absorb that kind of risk? With a more expensive unit I might end up losing twice that (it's relative). I don't expect this flail to last 10 years, but if it does (which it probably will) then great!

Lots of knowledge on flails in this thread:

Flail Mower - Let's talk flail mowers

Might be worth asking in that thread if folks have any familiarity with pull-behind units such as you're interested in. I don't know a lot about gasoline engines, but I do know that Honda and Kawasaki engines tend to be in commercial-grade equipment: I have a riding lawnmower with a Kawasaki engine; rental equipment I get usually has Honda engines.

 

[ArlyA]

Yeah, I ran across British ones as well (and also noted that they looked stout). It's hard to compare units without listing all the specs (weight provides a bit of a clue). Sadly, if you can't a get a hold of a certain brand/model then it's like it doesn't exist: and should you have to deal with getting parts?

EVERY unit has limitations. Knowing what they are and operating within those is the trick. My flail is a whole lot more delicate than my rotary cutter; I have to make myself operate the flail with that understanding (if it was a less heavy duty model I'd have to adjust for that as well).

I was pretty sure I wanted/needed a flail (desired extra cutting width [less passes means less turns means quicker] and the ability the shift the flail for cutting along ditches and in to light brush). Never used a flail before. The top level flails that met my basic requirements were around $6k. The thought that I could shell out $6k (or more) and find that I didn't like the flail made me apprehensive. I usually figure I can turn around and sell something, but in my area flails, for CUTs, aren't very common; there may not be a market (when you're talking about something that weighs 1,200 lbs shipping tends to force you into a local market). The flail that I ended up with has specs that rival those of the expensive units, and almost 1/2 the price. I figure the worst that could happen by buying the less expensive flail is that I might find myself losing $1k to $2k. Could I absorb that kind of risk? With a more expensive unit I might end up losing twice that (it's relative). I don't expect this flail to last 10 years, but if it does (which it probably will) then great!

Lots of knowledge on flails in this thread:

Flail Mower - Let's talk flail mowers

Might be worth asking in that thread if folks have any familiarity with pull-behind units such as you're interested in. I don't know a lot about gasoline engines, but I do know that Honda and Kawasaki engines tend to be in commercial-grade equipment: I have a riding lawnmower with a Kawasaki engine; rental equipment I get usually has Honda engines.

To the best of my knowledge, Champan just started selling mowers in NA this past year, so I expect few reviews. They only build tow behind types. Yes its a risk it might be poor but it still "looks" better built than many others.

 

[kenmbz]

I like my flail, got a betstco 48hd and it was cheaper than anything out there. For the thousands of feet (not miles) of my trails and some lawn cutting it works great. They hat rocks though, so for new trail clearing it can be a pain.
I keep mine high first pass, clear rocks, and then lower for the rest of the passes.
That chapman looks interesting, but the costs of these is quite high for my use.
For you, might make a really good return on investment if time is $ for you.

ArlyA - I am amazed at how much you do with string and pole saw. I can't even get string or pole saw in to my overgrown woods, nor do I have the time. Tractor, chainsaw and brushcutter makes for some tiring days, but it works for me.

Looking at how you do trails inspires me to keep going at mine.

 

[ArlyA]

Thanks Ken. Do note that pole saws, are chain saws. We are in the northern hardwood forest here so it must be different that yours woods. Nonetheless, pole saws are under utilized by many folks.