Trailer buying help

Soundguy · Aug 17, 2004

Weight and width are fine. those 16' tandem car haulers weight about 1700-1800 pounds depending on decking, bracking and options. That leaves you 5200 pounds of cargo.

I think your length may be an issue... though if it is a finish mower, it will be shorter than a brush hog.. and you may get away with setting the bucket down in a way that provides clearance.

As long as you can get your weight ballanced.. go for it.. otherwise look for an 18" trailer..

Soundguy

virgil · Aug 17, 2004

breaks, breaks, breaks... As a previos post sugested to get breaks on at least one axel, I recomend breaks on both axels.. Chances are you will have more "go" than "woa".
Chain that machine down properly. You would be surprised how many small tractor, ditchwitches and other small machines are brought to me in pieces because the driver used the equivilent of a shoe string to tie down a machine. Driver lost the load, the machine ends up tumbling down the road with pieces flying off in all directions. $$$$$$$$

botaman2 · Aug 17, 2004

I have a Kubota L3010 HST,fel w/hd bucket,loaded R4 tires,9'BH,the tractor weight is 6500#. The trailer I use is 18' with a 10,000 GVW. I have also used it to haul the tractor -loader with landscape rake,and 4'bush hog,all configurations use up all 18'. I would never consider anything smaller than 18'.

RobertN · Aug 18, 2004

A 7000lb trailer(two 3500lb axle) will weigh around 1500lbs(mine is a Carson 16' 7000lb, and weighs 1600lb). So, that gives you basically 5500lb of load capacity. You estimate your load at about 4000lbs, so you are ok in the weight range. Remember too, most hitches are only rated 5000lbs unless you get weight distributioon stuff.

My Kubota B8200(B2910 size) with 4' rotary mower and loader, use up my whole 16' trailer. Often, I take my mower and scraper. I put the mower on the front of the trailer, and let the loader rest on(scrpaer is on the 3pt). This works fine.

Remember incidentals when you get a trailer. Most come basic, and you add to them. Make sure you get a spare tire; I have had to use mine and was glad to not be stuck on the freeway. Make sure you have plenty of chain tie downs and rope hooks.

Get your brake controller installed before you get the trailer. Make sure your trailer plug is all wired properly.
www.marksrv.com/wiring.htm

Get your chains and binders. Remember per Federal DOT you need chain and binder at all four corners. think about extra gloves, as chains sitting in the sun can be hot!

JohnJohn · Aug 18, 2004

Wow!
Lots of good information guys. My tractor measures out 18'3" from the front of the bucket to the end of the deck.

Here is the deal... My mothers realtor is paying for the trailer. I told him it may run $2,000 and he was ok with it. A free trailer is a free trailer.
I currently have a S-10 Chevy Blazer with a V6. It is only rated for 5000 pounds so I may have to get the trailer and sit on it until I can buy a truck next year.
I may just put on my flashers and hit the road for the next few months.
I would have to drive on a two lane road that is fairly busy for 1.5 miles. I see tractors on this road every couple of weeks. In high gear I may hit 25 to 30 MPH on a 45 MPH road that people drive 55 on.
I could just stick to early Sunday mornings to lessen the impact I may have on the traffic. My L series is much bigger than a B series but no monster grand L or M tractor.

I think the 18'X7' dual axel dove tail trailer will be fine. It will hold 7000 pounds and I have estimated my loads to be 4000 pounds. That is my tractor, loader, and 7 foot deck.

Here is a link to the trailer I am looking to get. Trailer

Bowhunter · Aug 18, 2004

Nice looking trailer JohnJohn. If your whole setup measures a tad over 18', I'd seriously think about the 20' trailer for a little more money. You never know when you'll want the extra space for a push mower, weekeater, toolbox, fuel, etc.

I was getting ready to post that you could drive on the road and be to your destination by the time you get it loaded on the trailer, but then I see that the realtor is buying. That changes everything. Even if you go with the bigger trailer and have to kick in a little money, you get a great trailer for not much out of pocket. Good luck on your decision.

Soundguy · Aug 18, 2004

( breaks, breaks, breaks... As a previos post sugested to get breaks on at least one axel, I )

I did specify brakes... here's the part of my message:

( depending on decking, bracking and options. )

Soundguy

8561 · Aug 18, 2004

I'll give you just a little additional advice which might differ from some of the other advice you've gotten. Remember you need to be able to turn this trailer around. For every two feet you go up, it gets tougher to turn it around in a tight space. If you have plenty of room, ignore my post. My driveway as well as some of the places I go tend to be a little tight, so it was a consideration I had to make for my particular situation.

herdfan · Aug 18, 2004

( My mothers realtor is paying for the trailer )

That's pretty nice!
Does your mom's realtor have an office in WV? /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Jackrabbit_Slim · Aug 20, 2004

I'm towing a B2710 with various implements, depending on the job, with a Ford F150 4X4. I went with an 18 foot car hauler and wish I'd gone up to the 20 footer just to give myself a little more room to play with my load position. Well, that and the fact that the rotary mower hangs off the back end.

The loader/backhoe combination gives me a total tow weight of 5560 pounds and a tongue weight of 825 pounds, which necessitated a jump up to a class IV hitch.

One thing I'd be looking at is the width of the ramps. I didn't /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif My machine is set up for as much width as I can get, and when my ramps are positioned for the front wheels (about 29 inches between those two as I recall) my rears are over the outside edges of the ramps. I really would prefer to have a little more wiggle room there.

Slim