Trailer choices

[radioman]

megaboz said it right about weight ratio with no brakes on trailer. Due to limited budget, I have opted not to upgrade my current blazer towing the bota in 16ft trailer. I added weight distrubuting bars and sway control due to short wheelbase of truck which is simalar to your honda. I have driven it without the extra addons, and it can be a white knuckle experience due to idiots on the road. Adding on the weights bars really helps with the braking and balancing. I added the sway when I know the weight is approaching 5k or so in trailer and it really helps.

You can do it in a pinch with your pilot truck but heed others if not me. Get brakes, you won't be sorry.

 

[Firefighter Kubota]

Just another vote here for dual axels and brakes and a wooden deck...

5500K or 7000K

I had a steel dump trailer that I used to haul my B series and it would slide all over the place if things were not binded down like a huricaine was coming.... Be safe and do it right the first time...

As for length, 14 would probably work, you'll be happier with 16 total flat deck or a 14 +2 beaver tail. (what I'm using now)

Good luck

 

[Jaylegger]

I found something for you:2009 Load Max 36 Ft. Tri-axle Gooseneck Trailer *LOTS OF EXTRAS*

Just to bring things back to the posters reality, the OP wishes to haul a BX1860 with FEL which is, at most, in the 2000 to 2100 pound range total weight with a length of 11 feet and he estimates he'll trailer the unit a couple times a year. The tow vehicle is a relatively light duty SUV with a max GVRW of 4500 pounds.

Inferring from a couple posts I get the impression he wants to spend about $1500 dollars so that limits his options and pretty much eliminates aluminum, dual axle/brakes from the equation. At this point there are only a few options available and key is keeping the entire towing package as light as possible so not to tax his SUV's braking system excessively and not to infringe excessively on the vehicle GVRW rating in an effort to maximizie towing comfort and safety.

From my perspective the choice of trailer is fairly obvious, a 12 to 14 foot long, 5 to 6 foot wide, single 3500# torsion axle, steel trailer. To shave a few more pounds from the tare look for a flat deck design with no side rails.

 

[megaboz]

I found something for you:2009 Load Max 36 Ft. Tri-axle Gooseneck Trailer *LOTS OF EXTRAS*

Just to bring things back to the posters reality, the OP wishes to haul a BX1860 with FEL which is, at most, in the 2000 to 2100 pound range total weight with a length of 11 feet and he estimates he'll trailer the unit a couple times a year. The tow vehicle is a relatively light duty SUV with a max GVRW of 4500 pounds.

Inferring from a couple posts I get the impression he wants to spend about $1500 dollars so that limits his options and pretty much eliminates aluminum, dual axle/brakes from the equation. At this point there are only a few options available and key is keeping the entire towing package as light as possible so not to tax his SUV's braking system excessively and not to infringe excessively on the vehicle GVRW rating in an effort to maximizie towing comfort and safety.

From my perspective the choice of trailer is fairly obvious, a 12 to 14 foot long, 5 to 6 foot wide, single 3500# torsion axle, steel trailer. To shave a few more pounds from the tare look for a flat deck design with no side rails.

I realize maximizing the amount of what you spend and what you get is a big concern these days, but spending a few hundred dollars for brakes to me is a small price to pay to be safe. After all how much does a human life cost? What if it was you hit by an out of control truck pulling too much weight? Or with an overloaded trailer that could be handled by the tow vehicle?

There has been a lot of input on here, and most of it is pretty good. Should be more than enough to make a wise decision.

I only paid $2200 for my 18 foot dovetail with brakes on both axles, new.

The only part about the 12 foot trailers, I think you're going to find they have a load capacity of about 2100 pounds (give or take a little).

Depending on how far and where he would be towing it, he will have it pretty well maxed out. So now you have a 1000 lb trailer, 2100 lbs loaded tractor for 3100 lbs, with a tow vehicle that only weighs about 4500 lbs, the weight ratio isn't very good if he is going to be towing long distances, which was never really specified, it does/could make a difference. If it is towed long distances, it could be hard on the brakes of the tow vehicle. If it is going to be towing down steep hills that aren't paved, the trailer brakes are going to save his life with that weight ratio.

Personaly, now this is my preference, I don't like using a trailer that is nearly loaded to the max. Too much wear and tear.

I think this topic has been beat to death. I belive everyone here has pretty much said the same thing fo rthe most part. Some think the dual axles and brakes (at least on one axle) is over kill and others think it is a necessity.

Metal or Wood? I love the wood, I love replacing it every couple of years because it rots, twists and snaps under the weight. Metal, I love it too because it can be slick as snot and it rusts, but a can of paint and a can of Duplicolor bed liner will fix that.

 

[megaboz]

Here's an extreme example of too small of a tow vehicle. YouTube - downhill caravan crash

 

[mow4fun]

Here's an extreme example of too small of a tow vehicle. YouTube - downhill caravan crash

Now, that is funny. :laughing:

 

[Jaylegger]

So mow4fun you've been fairly quiet lately, have you decided it's safer to justy hop on the tractor and drive it to its destination or have you narrowed down your choice of trailer?

 

[TripleR]

So mow4fun you've been fairly quiet lately, have you decided it's safer to justy hop on the tractor and drive it to its destination or have you narrowed down your choice of trailer?

I don't know about mow4fun, but I am now afraid to use mine for anything and will now contact someone from Megamovers the next time I need to transport anything.

 

[mow4fun]

So mow4fun you've been fairly quiet lately, have you decided it's safer to justy hop on the tractor and drive it to its destination or have you narrowed down your choice of trailer?

Good idea, just drive it there, hmmmm...

Well, I appreciate all the different views and opinions and it got me thinking more and more.

Basically, I need to haul the tractore maybe 2 times or 3 times per year max for a distance of 15 miles. There could be one trip per year where I might do which is about 100 miles, this might be an occurance of once every few years. When I haul it, it might be with the FEL or the Chipper but won't be both which sets the weight at about 2200 lbs max at haul time.

I decided that trailer must be minimum 12 feet long but 14 feet would be better. Single axle would do the job but could max the trailer GVWR, dual axle is better and insures that I am not worried about maxing the trailer. SO, I am looking at both and depends on the deals. 6 feet or 7 feet width.

Brakes are good to have but would require additional work on the truck which in turns increases the investment including additional cost for the trailer. If I can find a good condition used trailer with brakes then might be worth it but not the goal with a new trailer.

I am looking for a Utility or Car Hauler trailer at this point, I think either would do the job but paying a lot of attention to the weight of the trailer. I am checking ebay, craigslist, and few dealers around me in NJ and PA. There are few out there in both new and used that could be a good choice. The thrill of the hunt goes on.

 

[Diamondpilot]

I am in NJ and the truck is a 2010 Honda Pilot AWD.

Here is the info I got. A 2010 Pilot AWD has a max tow rating of 4,500#. As for NJ here you go.

Maximum Speed Limit: 55
Maximum Dimensions for trailer:35'L x 8'W x 13'6"H
Maximum Length with Trailer:50'
Minimum Weight requiring Separate Trailer Brakes:3,000
Trailer Equipment Requirements:
Safety Chains:Y
Brakelights:Y
Taillights:Y
Clearance Lights:N/A
License Light:Y
Turn Signals:Y
Reflectors:Y
Flares:N/A
Breakaway Brakes:Y
Tiedowns:N/A
Two Trailers:N
Insurance:N
Wide Trailer Permit Phone Number: 609-633-9403 Agnt: 800-257-9003

Basically what its saying for NJ is you need brakes on any trailer over 3,000# and a brake-away kit along with the standard lights, safety chain, ect.

As for brakes or not brakes you must have them in your state. I sell trialers for a part time job and deal with this all the time. If you were to have a accident and you were towing over 3,000# (trailer plus cargo) your insurance company is going to run from you and leave you hanging. On top of that you would get a citation for no brakes. Its the law that any trailer over 3,000# must have brakes in NJ. Plain and simple.

As for saving money its will not. It will wear out the brakes on that little Pilot ASAP and you will be spending it one way or another.


Chris

 

[megaboz]

Here is the info I got. A 2010 Pilot AWD has a max tow rating of 4,500#. As for NJ here you go.

Maximum Speed Limit: 55
Maximum Dimensions for trailer:35'L x 8'W x 13'6"H
Maximum Length with Trailer:50'
Minimum Weight requiring Separate Trailer Brakes:3,000
Trailer Equipment Requirements:
Safety Chains:Y
Brakelights:Y
Taillights:Y
Clearance Lights:N/A
License Light:Y
Turn Signals:Y
Reflectors:Y
Flares:N/A
Breakaway Brakes:Y
Tiedowns:N/A
Two Trailers:N
Insurance:N
Wide Trailer Permit Phone Number: 609-633-9403 Agnt: 800-257-9003

Basically what its saying for NJ is you need brakes on any trailer over 3,000# and a brake-away kit along with the standard lights, safety chain, ect.

As for brakes or not brakes you must have them in your state. I sell trialers for a part time job and deal with this all the time. If you were to have a accident and you were towing over 3,000# (trailer plus cargo) your insurance company is going to run from you and leave you hanging. On top of that you would get a citation for no brakes. Its the law that any trailer over 3,000# must have brakes in NJ. Plain and simple.

As for saving money its will not. It will wear out the brakes on that little Pilot ASAP and you will be spending it one way or another.


Chris

That is almost too funny in parts that I am looking at. Can you imagine a Pilot pulling a 35 foot trailer? That would be more than twice the siize of the tow vehicle.

But on a more serious side, does/can breakaway brakes exist on a trailer with out a braking system? I mean doesn't the brake away brakes require regular trailer brakes to work? Or can one live without the other? This is a serious question, I am trying to educate myself, so I am not trying to be sarcastic in the least.

 

[Diamondpilot]

That is almost too funny in parts that I am looking at. Can you imagine a Pilot pulling a 35 foot trailer? That would be more than twice the siize of the tow vehicle.

But on a more serious side, does/can breakaway brakes exist on a trailer with out a braking system? I mean doesn't the brake away brakes require regular trailer brakes to work? Or can one live without the other? This is a serious question, I am trying to educate myself, so I am not trying to be sarcastic in the least.

For trailer brakes there are 4 types. Only 2 types are even a consideration on the type of trailer you are looking at due to you tow vehicle. They are Surge and electric.

Surge brakes are hydraulic and are completely contained on the trailer. They are commonly found on boat trailers and rental trailers. The modern surge brakes being, Disc Brakes, are very effective but will add about $1000 to the cost of a trailer. The older type are drum and can be had for about $750.

The most common type for a utility trailer are electric. They are always drums. We can only hope they will develop a disc electric brake someday. They cost about $200 per axle and you will need a controller, about $125, and the associated wiring on your vehicle, about $100. Most modern Explorer sized SUV's and up are pre-wired along with all 1/2 ton trucks and up. Not common in your size SUV. So as you can see the cost for most is about $325 to set up a trailer and tow vehicle for using electric brakes.

The other two types are air and electric over hydraulic. These are commonly found on larger trailers 20,000# and up. Not a concern for your application.

The brake-away system is simple. The law states it must apply full braking for 15 minutes, that's it. It is a system that can be added to any brake system with the proper parts. Its not required in all states but in NJ it is on any trailer requiring brakes. Thats trailers over 3,000#.

On a electric brake system if the trailer becomes disconnected it activates a switch that applies voltage directly to the trailers brakes via a small on-board battery. This battery will last for 5 years or so and cost about $25. It holds the brakes until the battery goes dead.

On a surge system if the trailer becomes disconnected it pulls a lever which simulates brake activation and applies hydraulic pressure to the brakes. It will hold indefinitely until reset.

I know we all want to save money but think of your investment? You have the SUV, trailer, tractor, your life, ect.

Chris

 

[Jaylegger]

Diamondpilot has provided the most relevant info thus far. Your only option sans brakes is an all aluminum single axle 2990 GVRW trailer which, coincidentally, falls under the 3,000# brake limit. Either way the price just went up. In another week you'll be inquiring about trading in your Honda for a new f-450 vehicle which of course opens another can of worms, can you imagine how stupid you'd look hauling a piddly 14 foot trailer with that.

 

[mow4fun]

Actually all these trailers with 2990 are only rated that way to get past the brakes issue but they are actually 3500lbs.

 

[Jaylegger]

As long as you stay under the GVWR of the trailer there's a built-in margin of safety. I don't think it you can legally be under the GVWR with a steel trailer with your gear but it can be easily be done with an aluminum which typically will have a tare weight between 500 and 650 pounds depending on manufacturer. I find it difficult ascertaining tare weights for steel trailers, for some reason it doesn't appear to be the norm for those weights to be advertised.

 

[itsjustme]

Lets do a little math here, I will round the numbers up just for fun.
- 1260 - is the tractor weight
- 250 - mowing deck with mulch kit
- ???? - Loader

I can't find the loader weight anywhere. Maybe some of you guys have a manual with that info can jump in.

We now have 1510 lbs plus loader weight. Just as a guess lets say the loader weight is 490 lbs.The tractor as equipped is now 2000 lbs (+/-).

Most 6X12 Landscape trailers with a ramp/gate will come in at 1000 lbs. or less. So it would actually come down to the trailer(and options) thats chosen to keep the gross weight at 3000 lbs.

BTW the brakes on a Pilot are almost identical to an F150.

Lets do a cost analysis for a trailer that will be used twice a year.
-$1100 - 6X12 single axel

-$2100 - 6X14/16 tandem with brakes.
+ $200 - For brake controller and wiring.
$2300 total cost

But wait a minute!
Now we have to add in the super duty diesel dually to pull the tandem trailer.
$2300 trailer
+$40,000 new truck
$43,000 for whole package

But wait a minute
Now we have to add a Featherlite goose neck to the big truck combo.
- $43,000
+ $9,000
- $52,000 Total

This can keep going on and on and on.:laughing::laughing:

Don't anyone get upset I just having a little fun

 

[teach]

Go with at least a 12' tandem axle trailer w/ brakes. I just purchased a new 14' and its none too long to haul my B7500 w/ loader. It would just fit on a 12' with no attachments, but I wouldn't have any wiggle room to balance the load properly and keep from having too much weight on the tongue or to prevent lifting the bumper. I use to haul it with a 16' deckover tandem without brakes and I'll never go back to no brakes. You really have to anticipate your stops! I haul mine with a full size, extra cab 1500 series Chevy pickup and I wouldn't want to haul with anything much lighter, but I guess it depends how far you want to take it. I would be a little concerned about your tow vehicle. Is it even rated for 2" receiver class III type hitch? Good luck whatever you go with!
Teach

 

[mow4fun]

Yes, it has a factory installed hitch with 2" receiver.

I think I am targetting the 14' or 12' if it is an exceptional deal.

 

[megaboz]

Diamondpilot has provided the most relevant info thus far. Your only option sans brakes is an all aluminum single axle 2990 GVRW trailer which, coincidentally, falls under the 3,000# brake limit. Either way the price just went up. In another week you'll be inquiring about trading in your Honda for a new f-450 vehicle which of course opens another can of worms, can you imagine how stupid you'd look hauling a piddly 14 foot trailer with that.

So only one person actually had anything good to say? Granted DisamonPilot is right on, but I think pretty much everyone was saying the same thing. Why would you buy a Ford? The comments given by others have been focused on safety and within the law.

Actually all these trailers with 2990 are only rated that way to get past the brakes issue but they are actually 3500lbs.

The insurance companies and law enforcement will not see it that way.

 

[Jaylegger]

So only one person actually had anything good to say? Granted DisamonPilot is right on, but I think pretty much everyone was saying the same thing. Why would you buy a Ford? The comments given by others have been focused on safety and within the law.

What I meant was that he provided objective factual information regarding the requirements of brakes in NJ. Most everything else posted has been purely ones personal opinion.

Why would I buy a Ford?? In reality I wouldn't, it was hyperbole.