Trailer paint recommendation

[WinterDeere]

You also need to be very careful using Imron or other similar products. If you are not, you could destroy your lungs and die.

Same problem I was describing above, it's a linear polyurethane with an isocyanate hardener. Isocyanates are nasty stuff, and a forced fresh air respirator is required when spraying them. Do not try to spray a 2-part paint with a regular cartridge respirator, not that folks haven't gotten away with it, but the consequences of a leaky mask can ruin your life.

But that's not necessarily a show-stopper, as there are some affordable (e.g. Allegro 9200-01 is under $1000) forced fresh air systems on the market. I can dig up info on the one I've been using the last 20 years, if anyone is interested. Bonus, your mask will never fog up with a fresh air system, they're actually much nicer to use in an enclosed space, than a regular cartridge respirator and goggles, except that you have to drag an extra hose around with you.

 

[Kubota Kid]

I painted my trailer with Eastwoods Rust reformer, four yrs later no rust, still looks like the day I did it.

 

[BubbaSam]

Well Guys...
I just watched the testing on the Project Farm Video on Rust Converters on YouTube. There were 8 different products tested. The tests were Oxidation, Chipping, Scratching and Water Pressure. The summary is POR-15 ($2.06 per oz) won on ALL cases! However, he suggested that the best product for a lower cost was Rustoleum Rust Reformer ($0.49 per oz).

You can watch the entire video here:

 

[JeepHead]

Brother in law used LINE-X on his Jeep and it's been through some crazy stuff and still looks great!

 

[Gord Baker]

Time to overhaul my 16’ equipment trailer, and while I have the floor torn off of it, I have been thinking about painting it. Does anyone out there have a recommendation for paint for the metal on my trailer? I’m sure some people just shoot Rust oleum on there, but I’m wondering if there is a better/longer-lasting option that I can shoot from a pneumatic sprayer.

Thanks!

If you have an Industrial Paint company nearby, get the frame Sandblasted to Commercial Blast spec., (protect wheel bearings) and have them apply a Zinc Rich Primer followed by a High Build Epoxy. Most important is clean substrate.

 

[350c]

Rustoleum is durable, lasts extremely well, and it is very easy to do touch-ups as needed.

And it's cheap!

I painted the headache rack on my truck 4 years ago with their gloss black spraypaint, and it still looks new.

Agree. I used a steel brush on a grinder, then painted with Rustoleum Rust Reformer, followed by a top coat of flat black Rustoleum.

 

[KennyG]

But that's not necessarily a show-stopper, as there are some affordable (e.g. Allegro 9200-01 is under $1000) forced fresh air systems on the market. I can dig up info on the one I've been using the last 20 years, if anyone is interested. Bonus, your mask will never fog up with a fresh air system, they're actually much nicer to use in an enclosed space, than a regular cartridge respirator and goggles, except that you have to drag an extra hose around with you.

I can't remember what brand my fresh air system is, but I think it only cost about $400. I solve the extra hose hassle by taping the fresh air and compressed air hose together, so they don't tangle. But again, for painting something like a trailer or an implement, just use Rustoleum or some implement paint.

 

[TugHillDog]

furiously taking notes....

 

[WinterDeere]

If you have an Industrial Paint company nearby, get the frame Sandblasted to Commercial Blast spec., (protect wheel bearings) and have them apply a Zinc Rich Primer followed by a High Build Epoxy. Most important is clean substrate.

I've done this twice before, and it definitely gives the best result, but with some caveats:

1. Most of these places miss things underneath the trailer. The guys do their best, but getting down under a trailer is just about impossible in all the gear they're wearing and dragging with them, so they mostly end up working blind when doing the underside. You will ALWAYS end up doing some of that manually with a needle scaler or wire wheel.

2. There really is no way to "protect the bearings", sand will always find a way in. Even with bearing buddies, where sand won't get into the bearing itself, it will get into the plunger area outside, and must be cleaned out. I always figure that disassembly, full cleaning, and re-packing is mandatory after blasting a trailer. Better yet, do it when your trailer needs a new axle, that's how I got away with skipping that chore on my last one.

3. Lights need to be removed, or replaced afterward. You'll want to remove them to paint anyway, but getting it to/from the blaster means you'll be doing some lights work in their parking lot, before and after blasting.

I'm presently needle scaling and re-painting the subframe of my log hauling trailer. It's taking me several days, and honestly, sometimes I wish I had just hauled it to the local blaster I've used for two other (boat) trailers. But between brakes, bearings, and lights, I figured this was the easier course. Also, I can selectively just do the frame and a bit of touch-up on the body (closed side trailer), when needle scaling, versus mandatory full-repaint when blasting.

 

[Dennis Mohn]

Time to overhaul my 16’ equipment trailer, and while I have the floor torn off of it, I have been thinking about painting it. Does anyone out there have a recommendation for paint for the metal on my trailer? I’m sure some people just shoot Rust oleum on there, but I’m wondering if there is a better/longer-lasting option that I can shoot from a pneumatic sprayer.

Thanks!

Look into a product called Por19, car guys use it yo prime auto bodies and they have one for painting frames. It will encapsulate any rust you miss when yo prep and ir is very durable .