Trailer Storage

[N80]

This weekend I am purchasing a new 19' 8k# gvwr, open, flat bed, car/tractor hauler. It will be used mostly to haul my car to the track, occasional use for other projects and rarely to haul my tractor. I'm guessing it will get used maybe 5 or 6 times a year.

The rest of that time it will be sitting in my open, sand floored tractor shed and the tongue will probably actually be sticking out from under the roof line of the shed.

What do I need to know about storage for this trailer? It has easy lube hubs so I will certainly make sure those are well lubed prior to and after storage. Does anyone make a cover to protect the plug end of the wiring harness? These always seem to have dirt, spiders and bugs down in them. Is there any benefit to buying jack stands to keep it raised up off the tires (it has radials)? Should I keep tire pressure at normal levels or lower for storage? Is it worth it to buy tire covers? It will get morning sun from on the left side.

Any other tips recommended? I don't want this thing to turn into the rusted unreliable-when-I-need-it-most that most infrequent-use trailers usually turn into.

Thanks for any help.

 

[bdog]

I wouldn't worry about it too much if it is mostly under a shed. We have a lot of trailers some of which see infrequent use and they seem to be holding up well. I don't do anything special for the tires or bearings. As long as it moves every month or two I wouldn't worry about the bearings rusting up. You can put a zip lock bag over the plug to help protect it if you want but I don't bother with that either.

 

[Diamondpilot]

I would just leave everything as is. If it was loaded in would place it on Jack Stands.

I would put the tires on treated lumber though and the tongue jack also.

Chris

 

[wolfpack2]

Be careful with the easy lube axles. If you get carried away and push more than one or two pumps grease into them, you can blow the inner seal which will then contaminate the brakes and cost you major money. You should service the brakes every year or two. Most trailer brakes are not auto adjusting and should be inspected and adjusted every year or two. This would also require repacking the bearings, so no real need to lube them unless you put a lot of miles on it every year.

 

[N80]

Be careful with the easy lube axles. If you get carried away and push more than one or two pumps grease into them, you can blow the inner seal which will then contaminate the brakes and cost you major money. You should service the brakes every year or two. Most trailer brakes are not auto adjusting and should be inspected and adjusted every year or two. This would also require repacking the bearings, so no real need to lube them unless you put a lot of miles on it every year.

Thanks for the tip. Did not know that about the easy lube axles.

As for the brakes and repacking the bearings, is this a DIY job? Is a press required? I know nothing about trailer brakes or bearings but I've done pretty extensive brake work on my own cars (changing pads, rotors, calipers, brake lines, etc).

 

[N80]

I'm planning on getting one of these for tire changes, etc. I might even get two and leave the trailer parked up on them to keep it out of the dirt. Probably a little better than a left over piece of treated lumber.

 

[Diamondpilot]

I'm planning on getting one of these for tire changes, etc. I might even get two and leave the trailer parked up on them to keep it out of the dirt. Probably a little better than a left over piece of treated lumber. <img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=465812"/>

I would stay away from them. I'm in the trailer business part time and have seen many bent axles due to them. Placing all that load on one axle overloads it.

Chris

 

[N80]

I would stay away from them. I'm in the trailer business part time and have seen many bent axles due to them. Placing all that load on one axle overloads it.

Chris

Even with an unloaded trailer? So what do you do when you have a flat on a loaded trailer? Seems like any jack point on the frame would be liable to frame failure with a loaded trailer too.

 

[Diamondpilot]

Even with an unloaded trailer? So what do you do when you have a flat on a loaded trailer? Seems like any jack point on the frame would be liable to frame failure with a loaded trailer too.

Maybe not on a unloaded but we've seen plenty of bent axles from it.

I always tell everyone to Jack from the axle as close as possible to the spring perches. I carry a short 16,000# Bottle Jack in all my town vehicles with some wood cribbage to make it possible for any situation.

Chris

 

[N80]

Well, I got my trailer. Below is a picture. I was not sure I'd be able to get the tractor, FEL and mower on this trailer but it looks like there is room. However, it looks to me like the tractor is a little too far forward, especially if the FEL was attached.

 

[EddieWalker]

That's a nice looking trailer. I wouldn't worry too much about doing anything more for it then just parking it under a covered area. I think that 99 percent of the problems trailers experience is caused from exposure to the elements. Sun is probably the worse down here in the South, but it all adds up. When I build my barn, there will be a parking place for my trailer.

 

[Green Power]

Nice trailer, hope it provides you many years of good service!

 

[kevin37b]

Nice looking rig . I would suggest a much shorter drop on your insert . Might level things up a bit . You really need 2ft . more of trailer . Not knocking , just trying to help .

 

[N80]

Nice looking rig . I would suggest a much shorter drop on your insert . Might level things up a bit .

You might be right. I bought that hitch insert because I was mostly pulling a two horse trailer. Because it is short, any upward angle put unwanted lift on the front two wheels and it was miserable to pull that way. That is not as much of an issue with this longer trailer which also puts more weight on the hitch and drops the rear of the truck a little. In the picture the ground is sloping a little which makes it look worse than when it is on level pavement.

Another issue is that the ramps are short. No problem for the tractor but my low slung track car might have trouble with the breakover angle. Less drop on the hitch would help with that too.

You really need 2ft . more of trailer . Not knocking , just trying to help .

True, for pulling the whole tractor rig. But, probably should have gotten two feet less. I will rarely pull tractor, loader and mower at the same time. In fact, my tractor hasn't been towed in 8 years or more. It will mostly be used to pull my track car which would be fine on a 16' trailer. This trailer was a compromise between those two needs.