trailer to wagon

[schmism]

Anyone know of a thing you can buy or build that will turn a trailer into a wagon?

They have these things which are trailer movers

im just wanting to build something that is self stable sitting there, but i can easly remove the "trailer" part and use it as a trailer again behind my truck.

My trailer is a 5x10 single axle utility trailer

build a trailer (stearing type wagon front axle) and build a 3 point connection, between the ball and 2 lower end links that i would pin to the V of the trailer about were the bed starts?

take the above trailer mover and add a third wheel and relocate the ball between all 3 to make a self stable platform?

 

[slowzuki]

I've seen them for tractor trailer flatbeds, they use the pup/b-train cart things so tractors can take a flat bed into the field to load with hay.

 

[RoyJackson]

Take a look at Northern Tool.
You might find what you need there. Search under wagons.
If you're in a rural area, keep an eye out for a hay wagon. You could swap the front (steering) axle over to your trailer, or just use the hay wagon.

 

[milkman]

You could put a socket for the ball on the trailer mover on the tongue back under the trailer tongue close to the trailer and cut the trailer tongue at that location and fix it so you can reattach it 2" receiver type when you want to us it for two wheel trailer, just remove the trailer mover. Of course you'd have to redo the tongue on the trailer mover to hook it to your tractor.

 

[ericjeeper]

Have you give any thought about welding a rolling jack to the tongue? Now the trailer has 3 points on the ground when not attached to a vehicle/tractor.
I am not following why anyone would wish to make an easy to back trailer a difficult piece of machinery to move?

 

[schmism]

Have you give any thought about welding a rolling jack to the tongue? Now the trailer has 3 points on the ground when not attached to a vehicle/tractor.
I am not following why anyone would wish to make an easy to back trailer a difficult piece of machinery to move?

a rolling jack doesnt really roll on anything but hard ground.

why would i want to make a trailer into a wagon?

because i have an FEL on my CUT and when i wish to stop and load dirt, manure, rocks, sticks, hay, (need i go on) then i can "park" the "wagon" and load it while its stitting there by itself, then simply drop a pin throuh the tow tong and pull it to were i need to unload.

the same process with my current trailer means i have to back perfectly onto the 2" ball with my draw bar, crank the trailer jack up and down about a million turns each time....

I could aquire an older hay wagon but thought why aquire another piece of eqiupment to store/maintain when ive alreayd got 95% of what i need in my current trailer....

I didnt find much under the wagon section other than some basic frames i could use to build off of.... there is the $80 wagon kit that could be tempting for a cheep front pony hitch carryer. Wagon Kit — 800-Lb. Capacity | Carts + Wagons | Northern Tool + Equipment

 

[Ford850]

a rolling jack doesnt really roll on anything but hard ground.

why would i want to make a trailer into a wagon?

because i have an FEL on my CUT and when i wish to stop and load dirt, manure, rocks, sticks, hay, (need i go on) then i can "park" the "wagon" and load it while its stitting there by itself, then simply drop a pin throuh the tow tong and pull it to were i need to unload.

the same process with my current trailer means i have to back perfectly onto the 2" ball with my draw bar, crank the trailer jack up and down about a million turns each time....

I could aquire an older hay wagon but thought why aquire another piece of eqiupment to store/maintain when ive alreayd got 95% of what i need in my current trailer....

I didnt find much under the wagon section other than some basic frames i could use to build off of.... there is the $80 wagon kit that could be tempting for a cheep front pony hitch carryer. Wagon Kit — 800-Lb. Capacity | Carts + Wagons | Northern Tool + Equipment

Schmism,
Be sure your exsiting trailer can handle a rearward load without flipping backwards. If your trailer wheels are not set to the back back like a wagon, adding a front set of wheels will allow you to steer it but not fully load it. A separate trailer might be your safest bet.

 

[schmism]

Schmism,
Be sure your exsiting trailer can handle a rearward load without flipping backwards. If your trailer wheels are not set to the back back like a wagon, adding a front set of wheels will allow you to steer it but not fully load it. A separate trailer might be your safest bet.

ah yes i was wondering when someone would point out the "rear load issue"
Yes its currently something i have to remind myself of when i use the trailer jack on the tonge.

so your right, one of the other good reasons to use a dedicated "wagon" setup.

 

[RoyJackson]

Schmism,
Be sure your exsiting trailer can handle a rearward load without flipping backwards. If your trailer wheels are not set to the back back like a wagon, adding a front set of wheels will allow you to steer it but not fully load it. A separate trailer might be your safest bet.

Good point!!!!

 

[PUMA454]

There are a couple companies selling 3 point receiver hitch adapters. While using one of these hitch adapters, you drop off the trailer from your tractor using a jack stand with the tongue height being horizontal. You should also have jack stands at both rear corners like enclosed trailers typically have. You can then lower your 3 point adapter and drive away after blocking the trailer tires.

Load the trailer as desired. Drive back to the tongue and go under the ball and slowly pick-it up using the 3 point. Once the ball is clicked in the socket, drop the two rear jack stands.

P.S. Be careful that the load doesn't have a negative tongue weight unless you have the one hitch adapter having a safety chain which when properly used doesn't let the 3 point hitch fly up.

Just adding to flip-up rear jack stands is allot easier than building a wagon conversion. Only downside is you can't move it without reattaching!

 

[TheKid]

when i wish to stop and load dirt, manure, rocks, sticks, hay, (need i go on) then i can "park" the "wagon" and load it while its stitting there by itself, then simply drop a pin throuh the tow tong and pull it to were i need to unload.

the same process with my current trailer means i have to back perfectly onto the 2" ball with my draw bar, crank the trailer jack up and down about a million turns each time....

Unless I'm not picturing what your saying, it sounds like you're going to have to back perfectly to line up and drop a pin through the tow tongue.

If you had a ball on your 3 point hitch and a jack on the tongue of the trailer all you would need to do is line up the ball to the coupler raise the 3 point so the jack is off the ground, latch the coupler and drive to where ever you want and then reverse the process.

That's the way I do it with my smaller garden trailer, and also by boat when I move it.

 

[sandman2234]

Tractor trailer dollie is probably a little heavy for this but might be worth looking into, especially if you can find one that the fifth wheel plate has been damaged or removed. For your use you might even remove one of the sets of tires on the duals to reduce weight. The other option is to build something similar to that so you can control the size and weight to match your equipment.
I would assume that you would load your trailer at the front first and like most trailers require, have at least 60 percent of the weight on the nose of the trailer, therefore making the position of the trailer wheels a mute point. It is pretty easy to tell when a trailer is getting light in the nose when your loading it, but you do have to watch for that. A good habit is to always load it from the front to the back.
David from jax

 

[zac]

some thing like this? Farm-Tuff Tandem Axle Utility Wagon — 2200-Lb. Capacity, Model# 03813-TM | Carts + Wagons | Northern Tool + Equipment

 

[Iplayfarmer]

I'm very surprised that everyone is suggesting a second trailer to solve your problem. The obvious solution is a second tractor. One to pull the trailer and one to load it.

In all seriousness, though, I think your idea of a convertible wagon/trailer would work great for you and what you have in mind. It sure beats cranking the jack up and down with every load. You've demonstrated enough understanding of practical limitations in past threads that I'm sure you're not going to dump a 2 ton rock on the back of the trailer and catapult the trailer dolly accross the field.

I saw one of these the other day before I read this thread.

Trailer Tug Pro, LLC - Gas Trailer Movers

I'm not suggesting that you use one of these, but I do think you could take some ideas from these. The thing I first noticed is that the ball is slightly forward of the axle. This would add just a little tongue weight and help with stability, I would think.

 

[SkunkWerX]

I use a ball on my 3-pt TowBar, set the trailer foot so the front is dipping forward a little. Tow it to the location, drop the 3 Pt. hitch low enough so trailer can un-couple and sit on it's own.
Fill from front to back.
once loaded, back around, line up the ball, and raise 3 Pt. hitch so ball engages and lifts trailer foot off ground.
Close coupler, attach the safety chains and drive off to dump.
Never have to touch the trailer jack.