Trailering a CK20, tie down methods

[DirtHauler]

O.K., here's my input, when I had my CK20 all I did was to install a clevis with a 3/4" pin on the draw bar and ran a chain thru it. On the front I installed a pair of "twisted" cleviss', one on each side of the frame, you have to drill out the holes from 18mm to 19mm (3/4") and use heavey grade bolts 'n' nuts then ya just run your tie down chain thru them. I use this same set up on my CK30. Simple and effective.

 

[Highbeam]

I'm confused dirtauler. Maybe it's the mix of CK20 and CK30 pictures but I didn't think that my CK30 had the top front corners of the frame cut off. I found a couple of other differences but maybe those are just the CK20 pics.

On the rear clevis, do you still use two chains or just one pulled all the way across the trailer and through the clevis? I would be awfully worried about a lack of side to side restraint if you only used one long chain. Though I see it done all the time on yellow machines.

I continue to be jealous of your twisted cleviss out front.

 

[Greg - Kioti CK20 TLB]

Great thread with a lot of useful advise. I'm going to move my CK20 this weekend for it's 50 hour service and this has given me food for thought. Looks like I need some twist clevices and large hooks.

Firehose to put the chain through...great idea! Do firehouses really give that stuff away?

 

[DirtHauler]

Highbeam.....I know I'll get "flak" about this but yes I use one chain thru the rear clevis from each rear corner of the trailer which is about 45 degrees and the same for the front, the tractor is "streched" between the two points and doesn't move and I know alot you out there are gonna gasp for air and grab your chest but I've hauled my tractor alot of miles and have even "tested" this one day when some idiot decided to flip a U turn in front me while I was moviin at about 45 mph and had to lock 'em up, alot tire smoke but the tractor never moved!

 

[jhixf564]

I havn't read the whole post, but did anybody mention Shrink Wrap?

Justin

 

[malk315]

Trailer is home and fits perfectly behind the shed

The 3 point hitch ball adapter was great for moving the trailer around after bringing it home. I thought I was in big trouble when I needed to back up the trailer a slight grade and didn't realize it was in high range -- thought it was too much weight for the tractor and got very disappointed for a moment and then duh -- put in low after almost getting it moving in high range! -- and then moved it w/ authority no problem.

It's the 16' w/ 7000 lb max weight.

Not hauling attachments -- just tractor, loader, and possibly MMM. Psyched to get the chains and binders working.

I'll try to take a picture of how everything turns out. Probably first real haul will be next weekend... plenty of other junk to move w/ the trailer to purge some stuff from the basement!

 

[RedRocker]

Took a pic of my hooks, Jeep tow hooks I had laying around.

 

[DirtHauler]

O.K., took a couple pics of my CK30 chained down. The front method works for CK20/25/30 I just used the existing holes on front sides (drilled out to 3/4"). On the back, I used this clevis but with the draw bar attached on my CK20.
On my CK30, I removed the draw bar (too long) and have the clevis attached to the draw bar hole.

 

[kurtfromct]

will a 16 foot trailer be adiquate for trailering a ck20hst with front loader and backhoe or should i use an 18 foot?

 

[KAB]

will a 16 foot trailer be adiquate for trailering a ck20hst with front loader and backhoe or should i use an 18 foot?

If you are buying a trailer, get an 18'. If you already have a 16' it will work, but it will be a tight fit. To get my CK20 with Backhoe loaded and correctly balanced the hoe actually extends beyond the end of the trailer.

Attached is a picture with the RFM, if you look close you can see the rear mower wheels just off of the end of the trailer. If I could have found a deal even close to the deal that I got on the 16' I would have spent the extra money for an 18'.

Kurt