trailering your utility tractors

/ trailering your utility tractors #1  

weeder

Silver Member
Joined
May 12, 2015
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Location
Tuscola Illinois
Tractor
John Deere 425 lawn tractor
Here's another question do you use chains and lever binders or heavy ratchet straps to hold down your tractor on the trailer? Also do you use 2 in the front and rear or just 2?
 
/ trailering your utility tractors #2  
depends on tractor. my gc2400 with bucket and tiller/snowblower runs around 2200lbs +/-.
I use 4 1500lb rated straps to secure to hook points I added to my single axle 7x14 trailer.
if taking the time to do 2 may as well do 4. cheap insurance.
 
/ trailering your utility tractors #3  
Chains and binders, one at each corner (4 total).
Any attachment on the 3pt another chain or heavy ratchet strap depending on what it is.
 
/ trailering your utility tractors #4  
As Dave M said -- depends on what you are hauling! My main criteria is to ensure that that the momentum of that object does not bring it forward on the trailer and into me and the truck. If that is an 800 lb small Kubota (on a 14ft trailer with strong perimeter rails going 12 miles away) a couple of straps is sufficient. If it is the 9,000 lb MF 2660 with 1000 lb bucket on the loader and a 1460 lb 7ft bush hog on it that takes the multiple 3/8" chains and not the 5/16" lighter ones. And of course proportional grades in between for less heavy loads.
I treat stopping forward motion in a potential collision as the #1 driver. Second is keeping the tires under significant force downward onto the trailer bed where brakes and gears help, and Third is prevention of other motion such as that caused by steep hills, rear end collisions, side hits, deep unforeseen potholes, etc.
 
/ trailering your utility tractors #5  
fwiw I did manually add electric brakes (and emergency breakaway) to my trailer to help with some issues @JWR just mentioned. one of the smartest things I ever did.
hauled that tractor/tiller combo many times with a 2010 mercury marquis that I added a 7 pin output to and brake controller.
 
/ trailering your utility tractors #6  
fwiw I did manually add electric brakes (and emergency breakaway) to my trailer to help with some issues @JWR just mentioned. one of the smartest things I ever did.
hauled that tractor/tiller combo many times with a 2010 mercury marquis that I added a 7 pin output to and brake controller.
I do use electric brakes on the 21ft deck-over 2 axle Pequea trailer that I use for heavier loads. VERY effective. Mandated by the State of PA where I bought it though I would have bought the brakes anyway. I do not have electric brakes on my smaller 14ft single axle Stage Coach brand trailer. It is fitted with a heavier 7000 lb axle and HD wheels but I have not hauled much more than my 1900 lb B2150 Kubotas on it. Actually a full load of firewood is probably heavier than the B2150's and I've done that several times. I used to use a 1990 Ford Explorer V6 stick when towing an 18ft custom made low deck trailer (25 years ago) but that was suicidal. Got rid of both the Explorer and the trailer before trying to haul the larger tractor, etc. Power was never the issue with any towing vehicle I have used -- it is always the weight. The heavier the towing rig the better off you are.
 
/ trailering your utility tractors #7  
I do use electric brakes on the 21ft deck-over 2 axle Pequea trailer that I use for heavier loads. VERY effective. Mandated by the State of PA where I bought it though I would have bought the brakes anyway. I do not have electric brakes on my smaller 14ft single axle Stage Coach brand trailer. It is fitted with a heavier 7000 lb axle and HD wheels but I have not hauled much more than my 1900 lb B2150 Kubotas on it. Actually a full load of firewood is probably heavier than the B2150's and I've done that several times. I used to use a 1990 Ford Explorer V6 stick when towing an 18ft custom made low deck trailer (25 years ago) but that was suicidal. Got rid of both the Explorer and the trailer before trying to haul the larger tractor, etc. Power was never the issue with any towing vehicle I have used -- it is always the weight. The heavier the towing rig the better off you are.
I added because was hauling with a 2010 marquis but I ended up using that trailer for people I worked for behind 2011 silverado 2500HD cause it just worked great for the GC1710 then GC1723 we used.
didn't try to load the bobcat S595 onto it (with weights and larger bucket was 7500 lbs or so) though LOL
while my 2019 silverado 1500 has enough braking power to haul trailer/tractor w/o brakes....its those emergency situations that matter. well worth the 350$ I spent on parts on trailer (iirc controller in car was 50$) for that ease of mind. etrailer.com set me up with all parts needed very fast.
 
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/ trailering your utility tractors
  • Thread Starter
#8  
depends on tractor. my gc2400 with bucket and tiller/snowblower runs around 2200lbs +/-.
I use 4 1500lb rated straps to secure to hook points I added to my single axle 7x14 trailer.
if taking the time to do 2 may as well do 4. cheap insurance.
My tractor is a M-F GC1705 weighs in around 1500 lbs. I don't know what the bucket weighs.
 
/ trailering your utility tractors #9  
Chains for equipment, straps for "normal" attachments (mower, blade, plow) chains for heavy tall equipment, 8" chipper.
 
/ trailering your utility tractors #10  
My tractor is a M-F GC1705 weighs in around 1500 lbs. I don't know what the bucket weighs.
DL100 or DL95? depending on year could be either.
iirc the DL100 is around 250lb and the woods 48.30 tiller is 500lbs.
GC2400 bare is 1433 (per massey specs...unsure if includes fluids) lbs, so the tiller alone takes it to 1933 lbs.
add the (irirc) 250 lbs for DL100 FEL is 2183 lbs.

edit: add into that the weight of the trailer with 2x12x14 and 2x12x7 pressure treated sides/front (thats 35 ft, plus a 12x40 inch 2x12 box I built to haul fuel cans in), 2x6x14 pressure treated floor, thats a bunch of weight that can smack you in the ass under sudden tow vehicle brake applications.
 
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/ trailering your utility tractors
  • Thread Starter
#11  
DL100 or DL95? depending on year could be either.
iirc the DL100 is around 250lb and the woods 48.30 tiller is 500lbs.
GC2400 bare is 1433 (per massey specs...unsure if includes fluids) lbs, so the tiller alone takes it to 1933 lbs.
add the (irirc) 250 lbs for DL100 FEL is 2183 lbs.

edit: add into that the weight of the trailer with 2x12x14 and 2x12x7 pressure treated sides/front (thats 35 ft, plus a 12x40 inch 2x12 box I built to haul fuel cans in), 2x6x14 pressure treated floor, thats a bunch of weight that can smack you in the ass under sudden tow vehicle brake applications.
DL95
 
/ trailering your utility tractors #12  

Aww heck. When I replied I was going off thread title with "utility tractor" ie bigger tractor. For your GC good ratchet straps are fine.
 
/ trailering your utility tractors #13  
honestly I would expect the DL100, the DL95, the DL1805 to be very close, prob all are w/o 20 lbs each other.
but when trailering you MUST add a safety factor.
if you think your FEL only weighs 200 lbs......call it 250lbs and secure per that.
your 1705 bare weighs around 1500. but it has mass. treat it as 1650. cause we have no idea if fluids are involved in the "weight" or not. then theres crap like (for me) adding a sunshade, etc.
its hard getting actual specs on the loaders, much easier to get ACTUAL weights on the attachments. my blizzard B54 rear blower is 535 lbs.
ALWAYS treat your load as if it weighs more than it actually does and tie it down as that.
I've weighed my GC2400 with DL100 and blizzard blower weighed in (with full fuel and sunshade) at 2260 lbs. had full fuel load. but was on scale dealing with trailer trucks so...not sure how accurate it was at those lower weights.
but I strap for more than my stuff weighs.
so I use 4 1500lb straps. on the rear I do I cross attach to hold the the attachment in place.
 
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/ trailering your utility tractors #14  
Aww heck. When I replied I was going off thread title with "utility tractor" ie bigger tractor. For your GC good ratchet straps are fine.
for most part true. however when hauling a 4ft woods bush hog a GC unit is almost 21ft long with bucket. so what I did on 16ft tilt trailer (end of ramp from front of CAM trailer was 22ft) was strap tractor (4 straps) then 3/8 chain and binders on bush hog pulling towards front of trailer. kept the hog from jumping on rough roads and loosening straps.

Oops made error CAM brand 16 ft tilt bed trailer is 18 feet from front to end of ramp.
GC series with 4ft woods brush hog the rear wheel touched over end.
So GC series with that hog is 18ft long.
My error sorry
 
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/ trailering your utility tractors #15  
It's not just about having it tied down good enough for a trip.

It's also about having it anchored well enough that in the event of an accident, it doesn't get loose.

Especially, if you have a trailer that doesn't have a stop at the front of it, to keep the load from coming off the front of the trailer. (I'd have one installed ASAP).
 
/ trailering your utility tractors #16  
Think it depends on size of tractor.... Mine weighs in at about 1500lbs (with out 600lb ballast) and I use ratchet straps left over from race car days, each strap is rated at 2500lbs working and 10,000 burst.... Think it keep tractor on trailer quite well...

And I'm in Kalifornia where law says load will have 4 tie downs to retain load on trailer...
 
/ trailering your utility tractors #17  
Here's another question do you use chains and lever binders or heavy ratchet straps to hold down your tractor on the trailer? Also do you use 2 in the front and rear or just 2?
Ck2610, so not a Utility tractor, but, ill answer anyways; two straps. One on front axle, and one on draw bar.
 
/ trailering your utility tractors #18  
Depends on trailer.

In my dump trailer it gets 2 3500# axle style ratchet straps.

On my tilt trailer it gets chains and binders (2) on the rear, those same straps on the front (2)
 
/ trailering your utility tractors #19  
Mines 4800 lbs with the front loader- I use 3/8 chains and ratchet binders
 
/ trailering your utility tractors #20  
My bare tractor is less than 2000 pounds but with filled tires, loader and an implement or ballast box on the back I’m about 3000 pounds. I use some of that cheap yellow rope to make it looked tied down.;):eek: Not really I use the wide ratchet straps. I do get lazy and rarely strap down the FEL or implement on the back. I suppose in theory something could happen but the last time I towed my tractor was 5 miles.
 

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