Tree puller question

[houser52]

 

[jjp8182]

That almost looks like the tree wasn't sufficiently cut before starting to push on it.

.....of course that's not to say something similar couldn't happen if the tree was properly cut as well.

Large standing trees and heavy equipment that isn't designed/intended for tree harvesting can be a risky combination - kind of makes a chainsaw and proper use of wedges actually seem like a safer method.

.... but that just might be me.

 

[JohnnyMX]

On the puller I got from LandPride / Kubota, there was a lighter duty one and one for skid steers that had a brush guard attachment. This was just a sold metal pipe a few feet up from the tractors grill guard. I had a few trees rotate back towards me before I realized that it was a good idea to install it. Mind you; I'm pulling sumac and stuff in the 2-4 inch range most of the time. If something does tip back, that will keep it off the tractor and, for the most part, off of my head. I'm sure I lost a little lift capacity, but I also found that with some white tape, I could tell exactly where the tree needed to be to be inside the jaws without needing to look.

 

[radios1]

you might be able to rent something like this in your area for $571/day. you might only need it for 1 day.. https://www.rentalyard.com/listings/construction-equipment/for-rent/22109363/2011-cat-563

 

[BukitCase]

"you might be able to rent something like this in your area for $571/day"

I see where you got that figure, weekly rental of $4000 divided by 7; in my area, it doesn't work that way. (Probably because everything ELSE seems to be more expensive here)

There are a couple places that rent that type equipment and smaller, both use the same formula -
1 - a "day" = 8 hours on the hour meter
2 - a "week" = 7 days, which means 7 X 8 hours (56 hours) on the meter
3 - If the daily rental is $300, the weekly is 3 times that (but still only 56 hours; anything over that gets charged by hour, or day if it's a full 8 hours)
4 - Units get delivered if very large, or a few other options if they're smaller.
5 - Unit is delivered full of fuel; you can return it that way, or pay about a buck more per gallon to re-fill it if you send it back NOT full

If the company in the link uses that same formula, $4000 (a week) would be $1333 per day (if it were in my area; hopefully other areas are different)

Interested to hear other than the above, I KNOW I'm getting screwed on steel prices compared to other parts of the country... Steve

 

[Smokeydog]

Danuser Intimdator. Not only grips but can excavate roots around the trees. Helps keep fences, buildings and road sides clear. Well made piece of equipment. B26 works in tight spots. M59 the bigger.

 

[jjp8182]

"you might be able to rent something like this in your area for $571/day"

I see where you got that figure, weekly rental of $4000 divided by 7; in my area, it doesn't work that way. (Probably because everything ELSE seems to be more expensive here)

There are a couple places that rent that type equipment and smaller, both use the same formula -
1 - a "day" = 8 hours on the hour meter
2 - a "week" = 7 days, which means 7 X 8 hours (56 hours) on the meter
3 - If the daily rental is $300, the weekly is 3 times that (but still only 56 hours; anything over that gets charged by hour, or day if it's a full 8 hours)
4 - Units get delivered if very large, or a few other options if they're smaller.
5 - Unit is delivered full of fuel; you can return it that way, or pay about a buck more per gallon to re-fill it if you send it back NOT full

If the company in the link uses that same formula, $4000 (a week) would be $1333 per day (if it were in my area; hopefully other areas are different)

Interested to hear other than the above, I KNOW I'm getting screwed on steel prices compared to other parts of the country... Steve

Here a rental "week" is 40 hours of run time & 7 days (at least at the place I rented a mini ex) and usually is at a higher price, but discounted rate (compared to the daily rates with more hours/dollar). Though depending on the item there might also be a minimum rental period. Some items could be rented for 4hr intervals, others at an 8hr "day" minimum depending on the size/nature of the item. For example implements like buckets, box blades etc may only have a daily rate while a compact tractor to use them may have both a 4hr rate and an 8hr daily rate, but larger equipment may only have daily rates since it's unlikely they could drop it off and pick it up twice in a day.

 

[rekees4300]

Sometimes that works, other times it doesn't (not my tractor)...
Aaron Z

WOW as a general rule of thumb ... small tractors and big trees don't mix.

 

[4570Man]

rent a feller/buncher, that's safest for what you want to do. it grabs the tree, then cuts it off, then it moves the tree to wherever you want!..

Why stop there? Just get a logging helicopter.

 

[houser52]

I got my MTL tree/ post puller early this morning. Everything about it looks good, welds, heavy construction, paint and protected cylinder. At my request the company swapped out the flat face couplers for ag couplers. After checking it over I put it right to work.

I had a section of fence with about 50 T-posts and about a half dozen wood posts to pull up. I can say that it generates a LOT of clamping force. It will crush in the sides of the T-posts and splinter 3-4" wooden posts. Got those posts, fence wire, all pulled up in no time. Rolled up everything with the forks and moved the mess to the scrap pile. Finished all that in just a little over an hour which would have taken me a half day using a chain and getting on/ off the tractor. My knees feel so much better too.

Pulling up the posts went so well I had time to try it out on the trees/bushes along the road. As I stated earlier, my intentions were to use the puller to reach up and over the fence to hold small trees/limbs/ bushes hanging out to the highway while I cut them off with my Echo pole saw. Everything was under 4" in diameter and less than 20' long. I held and cut one tree limb/bush at a time and it worked perfectly plus I didn't have to risk my life working next to the highway.

 

[lostcreekranch]

I got my MTL tree/ post puller early this morning. Everything about it looks good, welds, heavy construction, paint and protected cylinder. At my request the company swapped out the flat face couplers for ag couplers. After checking it over I put it right to work.

I had a section of fence with about 50 T-posts and about a half dozen wood posts to pull up. I can say that it generates a LOT of clamping force. It will crush in the sides of the T-posts and splinter 3-4" wooden posts. Got those posts, fence wire, all pulled up in no time. Rolled up everything with the forks and moved the mess to the scrap pile. Finished all that in just a little over an hour which would have taken me a half day using a chain and getting on/ off the tractor. My knees feel so much better too.

Pulling up the posts went so well I had time to try it out on the trees/bushes along the road. As I stated earlier, my intentions were to use the puller to reach up and over the fence to hold small trees/limbs/ bushes hanging out to the highway while I cut them off with my Echo pole saw. Everything was under 4" in diameter and less than 20' long. I held and cut one tree limb/bush at a time and it worked perfectly plus I didn't have to risk my life working next to the highway.

It takes a fine touch, with your 3rd function, to not just crush everything. When I pull fence posts, I grab them near the top where I have a good view. I close jaws to where I know I've got enough clamping force and lift.

When I cut cedar trees, that are at the base of oak trees, I leave about a 3' stump. I ignore the stumps for a year then go back and yank them up with the tree / post puller. Lift them up, shake the dirt from the roots, and drop them. I come back late with the grapple to pick them up.

Glad that you're pleased with your purchase. Pictures?

 

[houser52]

It takes a fine touch, with your 3rd function, to not just crush everything. When I pull fence posts, I grab them near the top where I have a good view. I close jaws to where I know I've got enough clamping force and lift.

When I cut cedar trees, that are at the base of oak trees, I leave about a 3' stump. I ignore the stumps for a year then go back and yank them up with the tree / post puller. Lift them up, shake the dirt from the roots, and drop them. I come back late with the grapple to pick them up.

Glad that you're pleased with your purchase. Pictures?

Thanks for the tips. Sorry but no pics. I should have taken some before and after but didn't think about it at the time. I'll post a pic of the mountain of brush.

I can see that I'll be using this attachment quite a lot. It sure makes the work easier and faster.