Tree Trimmer Build

Todd727 · May 25, 2013

I saw something similar here and decided to build my own. Grabbed a pump and pulley from Burden. Picked up a scrap table saw arbor and got to work. Hoses, idler and belt came from Tractor supply. Titan is local to me so that's where I got the mount plate. Less than $500 invested. Commercial units seem to sell for several thousand dollars. I will probably look for a 1" arbor so that I can run a 12" blade, but the 10" blade works fine up to about 4" limbs.

The video looks slow and jerky because I was running it with one hand while holding the phone in the other. It actually works great and I trimmed along a quarter mile of drive in about 15 minutes.

Guards will be next, but I needed to make sure it worked.

XxLT250RxX · May 25, 2013

Great job. I have though about doing the same thing except using 2 or 3 blades in a row or maybe a chain saw bar and chain. I need a rather long cutting edge. I had a eye injury several years ago and the extended cutting edge would compensate (i hope) for my lack of dept perception when positioning the blade. What are the specs on your hydraulic motor? What rpm's is the blade spinning at?

Todd727 · May 26, 2013

This is the pump I bought:

https://www.surpluscenter.com/Item.asp?item=9-1182

My skidsteer puts out about 23 gpm at 2500 psi. The max RPM of the motor is 5000. The pulleys should give me about a 1.8:1 ratio. Theoretically, then, the blade will run at 9000 rpm. However, I found that I can cut very easily at idle or just above idle. Probably not turning more than 3000rpm at the blade, but I don't have any real way to measure it. I connected one of the pressurized ports on the skidsteer and the case drain connector for the return. That ensures that the motor can only turn in one direction. That is important. Running it in reverse would quickly unscrew the blade.

I originally was going to build or adapt a hydraulic chainsaw but after I saw the Trimall website (it's gone now) I decided this would be better and easier to fabricate. Two of the problems with the chainsaw style are 1) keeping the chain tight and 2) setting up an oiler. With the saw blade, I don't have either issue.

I think I'm going to build some bushings for the 12" blades. I had one of the Harbor Freight bushings laying around and tried it. It is easier to cut and see what I'm doing with the 12" blade, but the HF bushings didn't stay in place. I'll need some thicker ones that can't come out of the blade hole.

Midniteoyl · May 26, 2013

While I can see this being used in the next 'Saw' movie, I fail to see the practical use over a chainsaw-on-a-stick? Other than being able to sit while cutting, it seem to take waayy longer and use waayy more fuel.

BigE_ · May 26, 2013

Midniteoyl said:
While I can see this being used in the next 'Saw' movie, I fail to see the practical use over a chainsaw-on-a-stick? Other than being able to sit while cutting, it seem to take waayy longer and use waayy more fuel.

Chainsaw on a stick is a bit slower and gets tiring very fast. Also, you have the limbs falling on you. Plus, this is just plain cool looking!

Todd727 · May 26, 2013

Midniteoyl said:
While I can see this being used in the next 'Saw' movie, I fail to see the practical use over a chainsaw-on-a-stick? Other than being able to sit while cutting, it seem to take waayy longer and use waayy more fuel.

Well, like I said in the OP, it's slow to run when you only have one hand to move the arm and reposition the machine. Plus, there was a slight learning curve. It's much faster with two hands. Finally, I've used the pole saw and I can tell you that after trimming 3 miles of trail, carrying bar oil and extra fuel as well as holding that saw up in the air, this is much more efficient and faster. I have 6 miles of trail to trim, both sides have to be cleared high enough for a horse and rider. No way I can do that in a single day with a pole saw.

BigE_ said:
Plus, this is just plain cool looking!

Thank you!

stuckmotor · May 26, 2013

A great job of fabricating. I want one.
Stuck

nc redneck · May 26, 2013

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/269126-quick-attach-front-end-hydraulic.html?highlight=

Midniteoyl · May 26, 2013

Todd727 said:
Well, like I said in the OP, it's slow to run when you only have one hand to move the arm and reposition the machine. Plus, there was a slight learning curve. It's much faster with two hands. Finally, I've used the pole saw and I can tell you that after trimming 3 miles of trail, carrying bar oil and extra fuel as well as holding that saw up in the air, this is much more efficient and faster. I have 6 miles of trail to trim, both sides have to be cleared high enough for a horse and rider. No way I can do that in a single day with a pole saw.

Thank you!

At 6 miles to trim, I can see it.. Around here, they use a bush-hog-on-a-stick (boom).. makes quit the mess, but is very fast

handirifle · May 26, 2013

I wouldn't go much over idle when using the saw, ever! look at the max rpm on the blade and you'll see 9K is WAY over speed, and might result in blade failure. A chunk of saw blade at that speed could come at you like a bullet. I love your idea and work, but I would add some sort of rear blade guard to it, for YOUR protection.

handirifle · May 26, 2013

Oh yea, I do not have anywhere near what you have, just about 100yds of drive to trim, but have tried the "chainsaw on a stick" and it gets old and HEAVY real fast.

Now if I could put the saw on a stick on my FEL.........

Todd727 · May 27, 2013

That blade says 8000 max rpm. There is also a limit of 6gpm in the case return connector I bought, so probably not going to get anywhere close to max speed.

Todd727 · May 27, 2013

nc redneck said:
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/269126-quick-attach-front-end-hydraulic.html?highlight=

I like that. Would be good once I get the 3 and 4 inch limbs knocked down.

Todd727 · May 27, 2013

Midniteoyl said:
At 6 miles to trim, I can see it.. Around here, they use a bush-hog-on-a-stick (boom).. makes quit the mess, but is very fast

I have this:

Skid Steer Brush Cutter Bushmaster - YouTube

Does a great job but, it's hard to trim the sides of trails and roads with. It has done a fantastic job at clearing some seriously overgrown areas and for cutting new trails. The excavator model would do what I want, but then I'd have to buy an excavator....

Midniteoyl · May 27, 2013

Todd727 said:
I have this:

Skid Steer Brush Cutter Bushmaster - YouTube

Does a great job but, it's hard to trim the sides of trails and roads with. It has done a fantastic job at clearing some seriously overgrown areas and for cutting new trails. The excavator model would do what I want, but then I'd have to buy an excavator....

Me want!

I have soo much overgrowth to clear I'm looking for ways like that to do it... wonder if I can adapt it to my FEL?

Todd727 · May 27, 2013

Here is their website. Rotary Cutters

I have the SL601. As long as you have a quick attach on your FEL and depending on your lift capacity, you could probably get one that works. The hydraulic flow might be a problem, but a PTO mounted pump would be a possible solution. The Tazmanian model only requires 10gpm and is lighter. I'm not familiar with the mini-skidsteer mounting plates though. Not sure if it'll work on a standard quick attach or if you need an adapter.