TRUCK AND TRAILER TEAM.

   / TRUCK AND TRAILER TEAM.
  • Thread Starter
#81  
Nice trailer, but I believe that is overkill for LB and his little BX.

LB I think you are making this a way more difficult decision than what it really is. If you were commercial hauling lots of different heavy equipment everyday, but for an occasional hauling of something small like a BX.

I think you are kidding yourself if you think you will be hauling buildings on a trailer anyway - how often are you going to do something like that? Unless you are going to start building a selling them. Then there is a reason why the guys that do it use the big roll back trucks. Too much wind resistance/top heavy. Unless you move up to a really big trailer or something like what J J posted.

Main use is for hauling the BXs.
My thinking is if spending all that money on a truck/trailer combo I might as well speck it out to get as
many uses out of the rig as possible.
Some how it just don't make sense to put all that money
in an outfit and still have to pay someone to haul my pick up or something like a small storage building.
 
   / TRUCK AND TRAILER TEAM. #82  
Here's a couple of PJ tilt trailers from the site JJ listed
 

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   / TRUCK AND TRAILER TEAM. #83  
Main use is for hauling the BXs.
My thinking is if spending all that money on a truck/trailer combo I might as well speck it out to get as
many uses out of the rig as possible.
Some how it just don't make sense to put all that money
in an outfit and still have to pay someone to haul my pick up or something like a small storage building.

Again, even your small toy TRUCKS can easily be towed with a half ton truck and a 7,000 lb car hauler type trailer. As far money goes paying someone to haul a building, how many are you planning on buying? My inlaws are moving and having a 10x20 shed they had build last year moved 45 miles for $200. By the time you jump the cost of the truck and trailer to the point it can handle this, I bet you could pay them to move a build 30 - 40 times. Of course, it is your money, what makes sense to you doesn't necessarily make sense to me.

BTW, I just bought a 16+2 car/utility trailer rated at 7k to haul my NH - closer to 4,000 lbs w/ loader, loaded tires, and attachments. I wouldn't be afraid to put my Silverado (1/2 ton ECSB 5,500 lbs) on this trailer and tow it with my Suburban. But I probably wouldn't put my Suburban (6500 lbs) on it.
 
   / TRUCK AND TRAILER TEAM. #84  
LB, (JMHO)

If you are wanting to haul your tractor, car, lumber, etc...and no buildings, then this is all you need.

*Truck---1/2 ton, auto, 4x4, V-8

*Trailer---16ft. to 20ft. Car Hauler. (brakes on trailer)

*Use a weight distribution hitch with sway control.
___________________________________

If you listen to other people on (another thread) they will have you trying to haul 26000lbs. with a pickup truck and trying to make you into a "Hot Shot Trucker" which will get you killed. I think you said that you had never hauled anything with a trailer before.

I won't tell you here how much weight i hauled with my F-250 or my F-150, when i needed to haul a load in one trip and not two, but i don't tow that much anymore,

The two tractor trailer company's i use to drive for was a flatbed division, and sometimes i would have a load that if i had extra chains/binders i would be over weight.

What a couple people on (another thread) don't realize is, that there is probably teenage kids or someone that has never towed/hauled before, and has already viewed their post. So they probably figure if someone is towing 26000lb. with a pickup, than they will be able to haul that much.

I have had the best training in hauling with tractor trailers, and i used what i learned to haul with a pickup truck but follow the (GVWR) and don't go over that, and don't brag about going over the (GVWR) for everyone to see.

If you get a trailer with brakes,(use them) and a weight distribution hitch with sway-control will help, some of the others don't think so since they are experts in boat towing.

Hope you find the best setup for your needs.
____________________________________
LB, we are trying to help you.
Here's a couple of PJ tilt trailers from the site JJ listed
This is a nice trailer.
Again, even your small toy TRUCKS can easily be towed with a half ton truck and a 7,000 lb car hauler type trailer. As far money goes paying someone to haul a building, how many are you planning on buying? My inlaws are moving and having a 10x20 shed they had build last year moved 45 miles for $200. By the time you jump the cost of the truck and trailer to the point it can handle this, I bet you could pay them to move a build 30 - 40 times. Of course, it is your money, what makes sense to you doesn't necessarily make sense to me.

BTW, I just bought a 16+2 car/utility trailer rated at 7k to haul my NH - closer to 4,000 lbs w/ loader, loaded tires, and attachments. I wouldn't be afraid to put my Silverado (1/2 ton ECSB 5,500 lbs) on this trailer and tow it with my Suburban. But I probably wouldn't put my Suburban (6500 lbs) on it.

I agree with you, LB just needs a 1/2 Ton truck and car hauler, or the
trailer that George found, if the weight isn't too much for a 1/2 Ton.

You won't be hauling a building everyday, unless that's the business you are wanting to do.
 
   / TRUCK AND TRAILER TEAM. #85  
J J-
It technically does have a dovetail. Just looks like a normal flat deck while driving on the road. But I don't want to start any arguments.

P.S.-
I've seen that 2nd pic on here before. I wonder if LB can see what's wrong with it...:rolleyes::D


Kyle

Just curious, what do you think is wrong with that trailer, and does anybody else see something wrong with it?
 
   / TRUCK AND TRAILER TEAM. #86  
J J-
I can't believe someone with experience wouldn't see the S-10 towing probably 10,000#+. I know he was just moving it to the back lot, but still.


Kyle
 
   / TRUCK AND TRAILER TEAM. #87  
It looks like a 1/2 T chevy to me and not an S10. But even zoomed in its hard to tell.
 
   / TRUCK AND TRAILER TEAM. #88  
J J-
I can't believe someone with experience wouldn't see the S-10 towing probably 10,000#+. I know he was just moving it to the back lot, but still.


Kyle

I thought you all saw something serious about the trailer that I didn't see.

That is exactly what he was doing.

I know the potential for dragging the dovetail when going over a swell of any kind
 
   / TRUCK AND TRAILER TEAM. #89  
   / TRUCK AND TRAILER TEAM. #90  
LB, I think you need to break up your looking into two separate parts to reduce the variables. First, decide on the maximum weight and size you will need to haul on the trailer, and then find a trailer that will meet your needs. If you want a deckover, comcentrate on available deckovers. When you find one, find out how much it weighs and what its GVWR is.

Next, figure out how much weight you want to put on the truck: 10-15% of the combined weight of the trailer and the load, for tongue weight; actual load in the bed; driver, passengers, tools, equipment, and hitch. You will then be able to decide on a truck, which must carry the total load (differnece between GVWR and unloaded weight), and must be able to tow the trailer (GCWR minus GVWR). You should be able to determine unladen weight, GVWR, and GCWR from the sticker on the door pillar of the truck.

By the way, on your '71 F-250, the max GVWR was 7500, and the truck probably weighed in excess of 4500. Sof if your loads exceeded 3000 including driver, fluids, etc., then you were overloaded. I had a '67 IH 1200A Campermobile, GVW was 7300, and weight empty was 4660 (had to weigh for Calif. tags). I put about 4500 of sand on it one day; it sure handled squirrely. Bever did that again!!

Good luck shopping.

P.S. Allow a reserve of at least 10%, don't try to actually reach the max.
 

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