Trying to decide Kubota BX25 or 1025R

   / Trying to decide Kubota BX25 or 1025R #51  
This isn't the thickest or tallest grass I've mowed, but it did this without any issues:


The old lad's kids' father dropped a tree in the road and needed help. The BX couldn't lift it, but it was got the pressure off the ground just enough to get his saw unstuck. Then, his chain wouldn't stay tight. Brand new Stihl....again, I'm thinking more a reflection of the man than the machine. I had my Echo CS400 with the stock 18" bar and chain. I finished with it. That trunk was around 20-21" across the larges part, pictured. I would cut it so the small bit would go in the bucket then move it to the burn pile. Was very efficient. Would have been more-so if I didn't have to do most of it myself.
 
   / Trying to decide Kubota BX25 or 1025R #52  
Great set of pictures, nikerret! Thank you. :)
 
   / Trying to decide Kubota BX25 or 1025R #53  
Great pics.

Always be careful digging because there are lots of utility things buried below grade. Some is surprisingly close to the surface.
 
   / Trying to decide Kubota BX25 or 1025R
  • Thread Starter
#54  
awesome info and pictures. Speaking off jobs and implements, I know I will be getting a brush hog but not sure about a blade or box blade. What would I use to level out the area where my shop is going? (see attached) Would I need to bring in some feel dirt?

Also want to move some of the dirt to the right of the clearing to add to the flat part, but I assume I will have to hire in some big guns?

Also have a pretty long driveway that is pretty smooth but it has a high spot down the middle with grass growing, would that be a box blade or would I need something else? I will take a picture when I get home.

Also
 

Attachments

  • 3.jpg
    3.jpg
    6.8 MB · Views: 223
  • 4.jpg
    4.jpg
    8.2 MB · Views: 171
   / Trying to decide Kubota BX25 or 1025R #55  
For site prep work, bulldozers work great because they get a truly flat surface with good compaction. If you are pouring a slab, you want it flat and compacted and not loose like smaller equipment would often leave. Plus, they can do the work in a fraction of the time.
 
   / Trying to decide Kubota BX25 or 1025R
  • Thread Starter
#56  
For site prep work, bulldozers work great because they get a truly flat surface with good compaction. If you are pouring a slab, you want it flat and compacted and not loose like smaller equipment would often leave. Plus, they can do the work in a fraction of the time.

Yes I understand that a dozer would be better and faster but cost is a factor. I think all I would be doing with the subcompact is trying to get it level best as possible. It will be a pole building and they said the site already looks pretty good. I would just try to clean it up a little bit. They will be digging holes away.

Just not sure what implement would work best
 
   / Trying to decide Kubota BX25 or 1025R #57  
For doing a lot of 3pt level work, the JD would be better, as it has position control.

I can't really see the pictures, they show up HUGE, on my screen, but I believe the box blade is better, for doing the type of work you're looking at. I considered the box and the rear. I went with the rear because it can do nearly everything the box can, even if less efficiently. The box has scarifiers, which the rear blade cannot duplicate.

Everyone I know who has a box blade just uses it on their gravel driveways. They don't seem overly impressed with it, for snow removal or other dirt work. The beauty of the rear blade is being able to angle it. That's where it makes magic. Where I went wrong is not getting the tilt option. THAT is the rear blade to get. My next one will have tilt or I might try to fabricate a tilt, for this lightweight blade.

There are a lot of threads on here, comparing the two. Take others' advice, over mine, in this regard. I've never used a box blade.

Of course, you can use your tractor to do the dirt work. I don't know what your soil is like, but I have terrible clay, here, and can do some pretty good digging. When I get some more experience, I'll really be able to knock it out. In learning terms, I'm still playing basketball with those hoops you hang on your bedroom door.

The beauty of learning to do it on your own land, is you already know how disappointed you'll be, when you screw up and how proud you'll be, when you fix it. Plus, yours is nice and open. Nothing to run into. There's no way I would pay someone to do something I could do with my tractor, unless it was time sensitive and my tractor would take too long or I already messed it up beyond my ability to fix it. You don't learn half as much by watching as you do by doing. Start with YouTube videos or find someone who does have experience, if you aren't the "wing it" type.




As was stated, be careful digging. In KS, we have OneCall, aka DigSafe, aka 811. It's a group of a lot of the utility companies and providers, who will come mark the property, so you can choose what's going to go where. I'm sure your area has something similar. If they do, make sure you get a list of the companies they work with and the companies, in your area. Fortunately, EVERY company in my town is on KS list. In the County, there is one company I have to call, independently (it's a small power company). On top of that, I also carry an independent liability policy with specific coverage for digging. Mine is a commercial policy as I would like others to pay for my tractor and enjoy the tax write-offs. With tractors, **** near everything is deductible. It's my first year, ask me again, in April, how that worked out.
 
   / Trying to decide Kubota BX25 or 1025R
  • Thread Starter
#58  
You think it is to big of a job for the bx or 1025? Still dont have any pics but I noticed last night my driveway is slanted. Not sure how I would level it.

Def gonna tackle the shop area though. Is there a way to guesstimate how much dirt to bring in?
 
   / Trying to decide Kubota BX25 or 1025R #59  
I would do my own, with my BX. If someone wanted to hire me to clear/level an area, it would depend on the size. If mine was the right tool for the job, or slightly undersized, I would be willing. If my tool is not the right tool, I will tell the customer they would be better off paying someone with the proper tool. No sense paying me $200, when the right person, with the right tool, will only cost $150.

For example, I know a guy who is wanting to make his single carport a double garage. That would be a quick, easy job I would take on. I had a guy ask me about digging out the footings, for a basement. That is NOT what I do and I told him he should look elsewhere.
 
   / Trying to decide Kubota BX25 or 1025R #60  
For doing a lot of 3pt level work, the JD would be better, as it has position control.

I can't really see the pictures, they show up HUGE, on my screen, but I believe the box blade is better, for doing the type of work you're looking at. I considered the box and the rear. I went with the rear because it can do nearly everything the box can, even if less efficiently. The box has scarifiers, which the rear blade cannot duplicate.

Everyone I know who has a box blade just uses it on their gravel driveways. They don't seem overly impressed with it, for snow removal or other dirt work. The beauty of the rear blade is being able to angle it. That's where it makes magic. Where I went wrong is not getting the tilt option. THAT is the rear blade to get. My next one will have tilt or I might try to fabricate a tilt, for this lightweight blade.

You're right about the position control setup being more useful for blade work. That said, I've been using both a box blade and a scraper blade on my BX for many years now, and with practice you get the hang of using that funky raise/lower control on the BX. Have done a bunch of dirt work with the box blade... a 48" BB is a good size for these SCUTs. For snow, a BB is better than nothing, but not by a whole bunch. Great counterweight for FEL work though.

An offsetting tilt rear blade is indeed a very useful implement, but they are not common in a size suitable for an SCUT, maybe because the added reinforcement needed makes them pretty heavy and having the digging/pushing action so far off-center can toss around a lightweight tractor.

Finally, what a great write-up you've done here! Very useful information, and photos as well!
 

Tractor & Equipment Auctions

2019 CATERPILLAR 930M WHEEL LOADER (A51242)
2019 CATERPILLAR...
2018 INTERNATIONAL 4400 4X2 EXT CAB SERVICE TRUCK (A51406)
2018 INTERNATIONAL...
2019 FORD F-650 SUPER DUTY BOX TRUCK (A51406)
2019 FORD F-650...
(2) 15X8 RIG MATS (A50854)
(2) 15X8 RIG MATS...
3000 Gallon Black Poly Water Tank (A49461)
3000 Gallon Black...
HAMM SMOOTH DRUM ROLLER (A50854)
HAMM SMOOTH DRUM...
 
Top