Tube vs. Tubeless

/ Tube vs. Tubeless #1  

Milist

New member
Joined
Sep 19, 2003
Messages
9
Location
Mass./N,H.
Tractor
B2150
I,m buying new tires for my kubota B2150 with rear tires filled with calcium chloride and no tubes. When the tire was taken off , I noticed rust on the rim but nowhere close to perforation. Is it worth it to add tubes at replacement time?
With tubes, I can't plug a leak but maybe the protection is worth it.
Also, the 2 tires I am considering(for yard and trail work) are Firestone's Turf and Field 5 bar which is 4 ply, or Titan's Multi- Trac which is 8 ply.
Any experience out there would be greatly appreciated.
 
/ Tube vs. Tubeless #2  
skip the tube and clean the rims and fill with the newer products that don't cause rust such a "rim guard" or "beet juice". I saw that you are in NH, Pinnacleview in Walpole (Keene area) installs one that is made from mollassis...... That is what they told me when they filled my tires....
 
/ Tube vs. Tubeless #3  
I've got tubes in all my tires, and they are filled. Works fine - but I haven't had to deal with a puncture since the tubes went in (had 'em all the time before).

But if you haven't checked in to it I'd suggest you think about having your tires filled with foam. Heavier than most other fill products and will ensure no more flats. But quite expensive, naturally /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif...
 
/ Tube vs. Tubeless #5  
if the price difference is not outlandish i would lean toward the 8 ply. if u need to have them loaded ,go with one of the non corrosive type fillings.
 
/ Tube vs. Tubeless #6  
Before I would just let the plys make up my mind, I would want to see what the difference was in the tires. As a tire dealer told me one time, when I was buying tires, and said I thought I should have more plys. He told me, its all in what the plys are made of, and how strong they were. He went on to tell me that 2 plys might be as strong as 6, it was all in what the plys were, what they were made of and how thick they were. It made sense to me, still does. So I would ask for some reason the 8 might be better. We always think they would be, and that would be right, if they were the same material and thickness, but if not maybe not. Just my 2 cents worth
 
/ Tube vs. Tubeless #7  
I have multi trac tires on my 990 and I believe they are 4 or 6 ply. Do they now make 8 ply ones?
 
/ Tube vs. Tubeless #8  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I have multi trac tires on my 990 and I believe they are 4 or 6 ply. Do they now make 8 ply ones? )</font>

Most of the "Titan TracLoader" tires I have seen (R4's) are 6 ply.
 
/ Tube vs. Tubeless #9  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( He told me, its all in what the plys are made of, and how strong they were. )</font>

Well said. Nylon cord is the weakest but most comfortable, polyester are stronger but less comfortable, Aramid (Kevlar) is the strongest and stiffest. Kevlar has an elastic modulus similar to very hard steel.
 
/ Tube vs. Tubeless #10  
I would suggest you run tubes in your loaded tires. I just replaced the calcum loaded rears on my Ford 2120 which had tubes and there was a fair amount of corrussion near the valve stem. they have always had tubes. You may want to give Galaxy tite in Malden Mass a call for your tires. They are a manufacturer an didstributor. I got the best price there. galaxytire.com Ask for Kevin

Andy
 
/ Tube vs. Tubeless #11  
Very interesting and timely post. I was getting ready to submit a post asking the same question. And for a Kubota B2150 as well!

I don't know what a </font><font color="blue" class="small">( Turf and Field 5 bar )</font> tire is exactly. Sounds like it may be either R-4 or a bar-turf tire. I have ordered two Firestone Ag tires (12.4-16) at $220 each. They are very hard to find.

Ply Ratings: The front 6-12 AG tires on my B2150 could be replaced in either 2, 4, or 6 ply tires. I had already ordered the 4-ply before I found out about the 6-ply. I don't know how many different ply-rating options there are for the rear tires.

TUBES with fluid?? In asking around locally the opinions seem to be about 50/50 whether I should use tubes or not. My current tires have never had fluid in them. I need to add fluid to help with my FEL tasks, but the original tires have such serious dry rot that I don't want to waste money on filling tires that may soon come apart. I will have to make a decision about the tubes in the tires as soon as the new tires come in (hopefully that will be soon!).

Regarding B2150 tires, here is another tidbit that you may want to know:

You may already know that the B2150 was not offered with R-4 tires. I was looking through my B2910 manual and discovered that the B2910 uses the same 12.4-16 rear AG tire that the B2150 uses. The B2150 came with 6-12 front AG tires while the B2910 can use either 6-12 or 7-12 front AG tires (apparently the 7-12 has the same height, but is 1" wider). Based upon that information, I ordered 7-12s for my B2150. Upon further investigation, I found that the turf tire sizes were the same as well. One would conclude, then, that the B2150 would use the same R-4 tires and rims from the B2710/B7800/B2910. My B2910 has R-4s (no fluid either) and I plan to swap them one day with the B2150 just see how they work.

Hopefully we both can gather a lot of information from this post.

Kelvin
 
/ Tube vs. Tubeless #12  
The new material that they are filling tires with today is more ecologically friendly and that translates into more friendly to your wheels also. It is a non corrosive product. If you do a search for "rim guard" or "beet juice" you will find a lot of information about the product on the TBN site..... Junkman
 
/ Tube vs. Tubeless #13  
Hi...

Another newer non-toxic, non-corrosive fill is called "Balastar"?... about $2.90/gallon... molasses-like...


Dave...
 

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