TuffTorq K46 Repair Guide with Pictures

[pooleo]

Working on my swap. For the L120, the K61 needs to be dropped about 2". The fan will hit the frame rail and the right fuel tank support. I ended up cutting the OEM mounting points from the frame. Cut the same piece off the donor frame. Going to position and weld in place.

 

[HusqvarnaDad]

I have some problems with a Husqvarna LGT 2654 Lawn Mower. I have a Tuff Torq K46BN transmission. The problem is that the axle broke on the left side. It has the wheel hubs and broke inside the wheel hub. I called Tuff Torq and the directed me to Husqvarna. Husqvarna doesn't want to cover it even though its a factory defect. They want to push it back on the Tuff Torq. Its my girlfriends parents mower and they are wanting to get it fixed. I am not happy with the situation at all. I told them today. They don't have to worry about me ever buying any of their products. The mower was purchased at Lowes. The mower was made in 06 according to the manufacturing date that is posted on the serial number at Partstree.com. The mower was bought in 08. Tuff Torq will not admit or even look at the pictures of the transmission. I could understand it was a pump or something due to wear and tear going out.
The guy at Husqvarna customer service was implying that they didn't take care of the mower. Gee I don't think an axle is a maintenance part. It has signs of not being a clean fresh break all the way through. So thanks to Tuff Torq and Husqvarna. I have 3 options or 4 actually. 1. try to get it welded, 2.replace the manufacturing defective axle $80 plus the hub assembly that sits around the axle, plus S&H and time, 3. buy the transmission assembly for anywheres from $616.81 plus shipping and handling to over $868.87 plus 15% on shipping and handling, or 4 buy a new mower. Definitely will not be a Husqvarna. We have a Toro and I am glad to have it. We also have a Cub Cadet Model #2185. I have had no problems out either of those mowers. The Cub Cadet has had some work done, but to be expected since it was built I think in 1994. I really hope that if any you out there buy a new mower. Look at your warranty. You would think that it being a manufacturing defect and having several people who weld for a living and know what they are looking at tell me this. You would think that they would honor the warranty and make a happy customer. I will send some pics when I get it figured out for you to see for yourselves.....View attachment 321270View attachment 321271View attachment 321272View attachment 321273View attachment 321274View attachment 321277View attachment 321278View attachment 321279View attachment 321280View attachment 321281View attachment 321282View attachment 321283View attachment 321284View attachment 321285View attachment 321286

I have the same problem you had, almost the same story - Husqvarna LGT2654, 150 hrs, K46 Transmission, Left axle, Manufactured 2006, Purchased 2008, Lowes, etc. Any luck with either of them covering it under a warranty? Have you fixed the axle yet? I went to the TuffTorq site and found the Axle Kit for $96 including shipping. I have a farmer neighbor who is going to look at it tomorrow to see if he can weld it, but it's doubtful since it sheared off inside the wheel hub right at the end of the notch where the axle key inserts into the shaft which is about 1/2" inside the wheel hub and about 1" from where the axle ends at the transmission. Does anybody know of a website that gives directions on how to replace the axle shaft?

 

[HusqvarnaDad]

Several things...
First, thank you LOGG, great job!
I am getting ready to open up my k46 for the second time. The first time was 2 years ago. Broke the left axle. All the dealers wanted to sell me a new transaxle for around $1,000.... NO!
I contacted TuffTorq directly and got the axle, new filter, and the synthetic fluid delivered for less than $100. After a THOROUGH cleaning internally and replacement of parts it was back in order. In fact it was more responsive with the 5W50 synthetic than the day I bought it new!

Next:
After a lengthy talk with tuff torq in a mindset like this quote from wsp, I have changed my mind! I truly believe they can make great stuff... The OEM's won't buy it! People talk about the bullet proof k66 upgrade... That is a Tuff Torq.
Here was what I found out. The k46 is built to have a drain plug to change fluid... None of the OEMs will pay the extra $.25, yes a quarter!
TuffTorq recommends synthetic oil... The OEMs use conventional
TuffTorq recommends changing the fluid at (if memory serves correctly) 10 hrs, 100 hrs, and then every 200 hrs and the k46 is built to be trouble free for 1,000 hrs! My OEM owners manual did NOT say this, but called it a maintenance free transaxle! This is the 3rd I have seen. It gives TuffTorq a bad name, but the OEMs get to sell more machines because 3 years down the road it's "broken" and might as well go buy a new mower....

If we would have known this from the start and followed these maintenance recommendations, I bet very few of us would have had these problems. But the big box store brands...about anybody competing in the "homeowner" priced mowers won't put the good stuff on, it will cut sales

I have basically the same problem GranadaMan had, almost the same story - K46, Husqvarna LGT2654, 150 hrs, Left axle, Manufactured 2006, Purchased 2008, Lowes, etc. I went to the TuffTorq site and found the Axle Kit for $96 including shipping. I have a farmer neighbor who is going to look at it tomorrow to see if he can weld it, but it's doubtful since it sheared off inside the wheel hub right at the end of the notch where the axle key inserts into the shaft which is about 1/2" inside the wheel hub and about 1" from where the axle ends at the transmission. Does anybody know where to find a website that gives directions on how to replace the axle?

 

[Voyager6]

I have basically the same problem GranadaMan had, almost the same story - K46, Husqvarna LGT2654, 150 hrs, Left axle, Manufactured 2006, Purchased 2008, Lowes, etc. I went to the TuffTorq site and found the Axle Kit for $96 including shipping. I have a farmer neighbor who is going to look at it tomorrow to see if he can weld it, but it's doubtful since it sheared off inside the wheel hub right at the end of the notch where the axle key inserts into the shaft which is about 1/2" inside the wheel hub and about 1" from where the axle ends at the transmission. Does anybody know where to find a website that gives directions on how to replace the axle?

https://www.tufftorqservices.com/EnvEEdefault/FlatHTML/TechInfo/docs/Repairprocedures.htm

Simple to do. I changed axles in a K58 with no problem. Open Case top down. At differential, pull two C-Clips/thrust washers out and pull out axle. Change seal, tape and lube new axle, Slide in, put C-Clips/thrust washers back and and make sure they are seated in differential. Repeat for other side. Hopefully you bought two drain plug kits as it is easy to drill the holes out in the lower case and tap them. You will need to scrape all gasket sealant off the case and reapply new. Wait 24 hours, fill with 5W50 and put the top plugs back in and you are good to go.

 

[aca31]

Hi, I did the rebuild on my K46, filled it with fluid and put it back on the tractor. Im trying follow the purge procedure but must be doing something wrong. When I push forward or reverse it feels terrible and I start to smell burning belt.

 

[sjsmith2262]

I was thinking some of the high dollar screw compressor oil. I have about 2+ quarts left over after a couple of oil changes....hummmm Not sure what it is, but it is very expensive. $125 per gallon or more.

Like to hear back from some of the guys who have rebuilt and put a bunch of hours on their rebuild. Status report guys?

Kyle_in_Tex,
Since rebuilding my K66 transmission last fall, I've put on over 50 hard hours of use on her without *any* issues whatsoever!!! Still running like a champ!

REFERENCES:
1. http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...k46-repair-guide-pictures-43.html#post3083331
2. http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/parts-repairs/164892-tufftorq-k46-repair-guide-pictures-51.html

wactbn - great write-up & pictures!

 

[Voyager6]

Pull the fenderdeck and check the belt idler pulleys and make sure they haven't seized. You can observe the fan and pulley if you can remove the gas tank. Make sure the belt doesn't rub against the fan blades.

 

[SnakeBit01]

New here but we replaced the pump motor and filter in ours and everything is put back correctly including the wedge inside the trans and ours goes reverse when pushing the forward pedal, and the reverse pedal is dead?

 

[Voyager6]

New here but we replaced the pump motor and filter in ours and everything is put back correctly including the wedge inside the trans and ours goes reverse when pushing the forward pedal, and the reverse pedal is dead?

You didn't replace the center case or at least sand the surface? Have you put the tractor on Jack Stands and then moved the motion lever both ways fully and verify that reverse won't engage? Was it fully bled? Does the trans want to creep when both pedals are not pressed and brake is off?

That reminds me, try it again with the brake linkage removed from the transmission arm. If it starts working, you may have a dragging brake that needs the linkage adjusted. However, this won't explain the 'goes into reverse when forward pedal is pushed' (that is the wedge or you have a major leak inside the case).

Is this from the LT180 in your profile? If so, it is a K46C and the fat part of the wedge should be up when looking down at the transmission when it is turned upside down and lower case cover is off.

 

[SnakeBit01]

You didn't replace the center case or at least sand the surface? Have you put the tractor on Jack Stands and then moved the motion lever both ways fully and verify that reverse won't engage? Was it fully bled? Does the trans want to creep when both pedals are not pressed and brake is off?

That reminds me, try it again with the brake linkage removed from the transmission arm. If it starts working, you may have a dragging brake that needs the linkage adjusted. However, this won't explain the 'goes into reverse when forward pedal is pushed' (that is the wedge or you have a major leak inside the case).

Is this from the LT180 in your profile? If so, it is a K46C and the fat part of the wedge should be up when looking down at the transmission when it is turned upside down and lower case cover is off.

Yes the fat part is up we sanded cleaned and prepped everything the lever moves both forward and reverse we are going to tear the case apart and check for leaks but I am baffled really...