TX 2160F, with front loader and backhoe, long term project

   / TX 2160F, with front loader and backhoe, long term project #141  
That was great find, I think the original is a vapormatic, unfortunately spares no longer exist, that valve is fine its just the spool I need, such a pity,

Your are correct with your stab at the new spool manufacturer!!
I might keep looking and see what turns up on ebay, they have a sectional valve at £325 I thought I would try this first and was advised by a hydraulic engineering firm I send a request to help with refurbishment of the original spool to just get a monoblock spool, cheaper option to a repair.

Chris
I used to buy quite a few hydraulic stuff from them, specially hydraulic hoses since they had that "Build your own" tool and the prices were great. That was before Brexit of course and now the shipping went to the roof, plus I get hit hard at the customs here for some reason.

I wouldn't lose the faith on that new valve just yet. It's just not function quite right. It does look like it has a check valve, and it may be stuck open causing that effect you're experiencing. You may want to pull the check valve and see if it's moving freely, or something is preventing it from closing all the way.

Does it happen on the curl/dump circuit as well? I imagine it would be hard to tell and it may not have enough weight to recreate the same effect.

This should be it. I marked the location on the picture.

Inked51756003030_578a8b2b18_k_LI.jpg
 
   / TX 2160F, with front loader and backhoe, long term project
  • Thread Starter
#142  
I used to buy quite a few hydraulic stuff from them, specially hydraulic hoses since they had that "Build your own" tool and the prices were great. That was before Brexit of course and now the shipping went to the roof, plus I get hit hard at the customs here for some reason.

I wouldn't lose the faith on that new valve just yet. It's just not function quite right. It does look like it has a check valve, and it may be stuck open causing that effect you're experiencing. You may want to pull the check valve and see if it's moving freely, or something is preventing it from closing all the way.

Does it happen on the curl/dump circuit as well? I imagine it would be hard to tell and it may not have enough weight to recreate the same effect.

This should be it. I marked the location on the picture.

View attachment 726629
Thanks for taking the time to explain, its much appreciated, it was them I got all my hoses from, they were a good price thats for sure,

I have sent the email with both videos tonight so I will see if they have a change of thought after seeing the comparison when they manage to view them,

I'll keep you posted.

Chris
 
   / TX 2160F, with front loader and backhoe, long term project
  • Thread Starter
#143  
I have had the valve collected and returned to the supplier, it was tested and operated as expected on the test bench unfortunately they never tested it replicating the load on the ram, only extending rams out both ports on the spool valve, next is to try it again as they thought/blamed me turning the operating handles and not refitting them correctly, time will tell once I get a chance to refit it.

Chris
 
   / TX 2160F, with front loader and backhoe, long term project #144  
Front hubs filled with some grease and put back together

Untitled by chrismac2012, on Flickr

Untitled by chrismac2012, on Flickr
Hi Chris,

George from Gatehhouse of Fleet here. What an amazing job you've done - tractor and documenting it. Thanks so much.

First question: Are you working on 2140 or 2160? I think you got videos of a 2140 being driven around garden and shed.

Second question: How did you deal with wiper/seals on the above cleaned-up hubs? The old ones seem brittle and prone to breaking.

Third question: Did you open the final gear case at all? I'm having a bit of an issue with a bearing inside that case.

Finally: Thanks again for the axle you sold me back in 2019. My NS final gear case has been running dry for at least a couple of years due to a leak. I bought it that way. Being an ex farmer I was waiting for it to break down before I fixed it.

But, to break with tradition, I just decided to fix it before it broke down. Your axle yielded two usable hubs. They don't appear to be handed so I used your OS hub to fix my NS one.

The lower pinion on mine had a straight groove and was a bit worn:
IMG_20220218_154847567_resized.jpg


Both pinions on your axle had spiral grooves and grease nipples:
IMG_20220218_164045318_resized.jpg


So I opted to use yours but it was a bit longer and I was concerned it might foul the UJ. I cut it down by a few mils.
This picture is of the original sizes.
IMG_20220218_164324568_resized.jpg



The end result seems great - and with trees coming down right, left and centre and wood chip to haul as well - so she's going to be well tested very soon.:) We're still struggling with a couple of awkward trees from storm Arwen. Dudley has passed .. just waiting to see what Eunice brings. :(

Below is the gear case mentioned above. It's the other half of your axle.
With extreme violence I think the bearing has moved out by a mil or two. Not easy to pull.
Any idea how to get it out? Is heat the main approach?
How will I ever get it back in again? Thanks.

GearCase.jpg




PS:
Apologies if this is the wrong place to put this stuff. I can move it if needs be.
On the one hand it is near some 4WD front axle posts but maybe I'm squatting in the wrong place!

Cheers, George
 
   / TX 2160F, with front loader and backhoe, long term project
  • Thread Starter
#145  
Hi Chris,

George from Gatehhouse of Fleet here. What an amazing job you've done - tractor and documenting it. Thanks so much.

First question: Are you working on 2140 or 2160? I think you got videos of a 2140 being driven around garden and shed.

Second question: How did you deal with wiper/seals on the above cleaned-up hubs? The old ones seem brittle and prone to breaking.

Third question: Did you open the final gear case at all? I'm having a bit of an issue with a bearing inside that case.

Finally: Thanks again for the axle you sold me back in 2019. My NS final gear case has been running dry for at least a couple of years due to a leak. I bought it that way. Being an ex farmer I was waiting for it to break down before I fixed it.

But, to break with tradition, I just decided to fix it before it broke down. Your axle yielded two usable hubs. They don't appear to be handed so I used your OS hub to fix my NS one.

The lower pinion on mine had a straight groove and was a bit worn:
View attachment 734120

Both pinions on your axle had spiral grooves and grease nipples:
View attachment 734121

So I opted to use yours but it was a bit longer and I was concerned it might foul the UJ. I cut it down by a few mils.
This picture is of the original sizes.
View attachment 734122


The end result seems great - and with trees coming down right, left and centre and wood chip to haul as well - so she's going to be well tested very soon.:) We're still struggling with a couple of awkward trees from storm Arwen. Dudley has passed .. just waiting to see what Eunice brings. :(

Below is the gear case mentioned above. It's the other half of your axle.
With extreme violence I think the bearing has moved out by a mil or two. Not easy to pull.
Any idea how to get it out? Is heat the main approach?
How will I ever get it back in again? Thanks.

View attachment 734124



PS:
Apologies if this is the wrong place to put this stuff. I can move it if needs be.
On the one hand it is near some 4WD front axle posts but maybe I'm squatting in the wrong place!

Cheers, George
Hi George, good to hear from you and glad that axle was of use in the end, you'll see the backhoe I was heading to Liverpool to collect when we dropped that off to you, the replacement bonnet is from a TX 2140 the tractor is a TX2160, although there is no difference apart from engine as all the manuals cover both,

I do remember the wiper seals were tricky to work with, mine were not too brittle though.

That is about the only part of my tractor I have not taken apart, but what I have done if its of any use is copy a couple of pictures of the parts manual to help you along hopefully, it does look like it just slides out though as you say.

Untitled by chrismac2012, on Flickr

Untitled by chrismac2012, on Flickr

Thanks for the comments
Cheers
Chris
 
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   / TX 2160F, with front loader and backhoe, long term project #146  
Thanks Chris. Those diagrams are very helpful.

I use my 2140 very regularly because of the loader. The most I've lifted is about 200kg/440lbs. I'm amazed these little tractors can cope with a loader and rear weight (220kg/480lbs) never mind a back hoe. It wouldn't work on my patch ... 12 degree slope over a lot of it and no ROPS. I'm very careful!

The speed of operation of the loader is very dependent on the position of (and maybe weight on) the 3PL. Seems to be quite a common problem over various makes and models of tractor on this forum. Have you come across that yet? I've made myself a 200kg compact rear weight that sits on top of the 3PL arms and yet clears the ground when the arms are down. Not sure if this will put undue pressure on any stops inside the hydraulics though. Certainly solves the problem.

On the subject of manuals which ones have you got? Repair? Parts? or both? I've got the User Manual. The Repair/Service Manual sounds like it will be equally useful for a numpty like me. :rolleyes: However, I seem to see most references to the Parts Manual on the forums. Also the Parts Manual is often cited as having step by step procedures.

The only stable supplier I've noted is Southern Global in MS, USA - $110 for the set. Don't know what shipping and duty will add up to. Any other recommendations gratefully received.

epartsmanuals looks promising but maybe not worth it if I go the Southern Global route since they only have Parts Manual in PDF I think.

Thanks again for front axle pages. I need to rig up a puller somehow.

Cheers, George
 
   / TX 2160F, with front loader and backhoe, long term project
  • Thread Starter
#147  
My loader hydraulics is fed from the same feed which is used for the 3 point linkage, I have not noticed any differences yet, arms are off at the moment and are usually up, what loader do you have on yours, they are great bits of kit and very handy,

If you want to private message me your email, which I probably had a couple of years ago, if its of any use I can send some manuals, they will be in pdf but near enough for you to have a read of, to be honest apart from torque settings and engine settings I have got by with out using it too much, all the copies I have and managed to see online are of poor photographed quality, although one guy I was in contact with had a very good service manual which would have been good to have.

Cheers
Chris
 
   / TX 2160F, with front loader and backhoe, long term project #148  
My loader hydraulics is fed from the same feed which is used for the 3 point linkage, I have not noticed any differences yet, arms are off at the moment and are usually up, what loader do you have on yours, they are great bits of kit and very handy,

If you want to private message me your email, which I probably had a couple of years ago, if its of any use I can send some manuals, they will be in pdf but near enough for you to have a read of, to be honest apart from torque settings and engine settings I have got by with out using it too much, all the copies I have and managed to see online are of poor photographed quality, although one guy I was in contact with had a very good service manual which would have been good to have.

Cheers
Chris
Hi Chris,

I think my loader is the same as yours. L20?

Doh! Today I fully shut the 3PL lowering rate valve on top of the hydraulic block. This locked the transport box wherever it was and I could put the position lever fully down. Loader seemed better.

PM sent.

Many thanks again.

Rgds, George
 
   / TX 2160F, with front loader and backhoe, long term project
  • Thread Starter
#149  
Having had an issue with an oily black residue coming out the exhaust since day one, I decided now was the time for further investigation, compression test for starters, to my delight it was as per factory guidelines,

Untitled by chrismac2012, on Flickr

next stop valve guides, not able to get them in the uk for 10 days I was struggling a bit until I put a request on an iseki facebook page, a company rep came forward offering a quick delivery and a good combined price, I placed the order on the Monday and the parcel arrived on the Thursday, Netherlands to Scotland, I struggle to get items delivered in 3 days in this country never mind coming in from Europe,

I made up a valve compression tool as I was leaving the head on, having read using a compressor to keep the valves in place while releasing the springs, I did not realise you could but a specific tool, it was not an elaborate thing but did the job, I plumbed the air in through the heater plug hole, frigging the compression tester fittings to get me through, a small bit of a plastic cable tie cut down keeping the non-return valve open to allow compressed air into the bore, I made sure the pistons were tdc on each cylinder before stripping the valve springs, used small magnets and cable ties to ensure the valves did no drop, but the clearance is so little the valve only drops 1/4" before coming in contact with the piston, ( I got brave when refitting and tried to see how close the piston was) so no chance of loosing it.

Untitled by chrismac2012, on Flickr

Home made tool just allowing the spring to be pushed down,

Untitled by chrismac2012, on Flickr

Once the new valve stem seals arrived home it became clear the how worn the old ones were by the size of the hole,
Untitled by chrismac2012, on Flickr

Showing the set up with airline into the heater plug hole,

Untitled by chrismac2012, on Flickr
Untitled by chrismac2012, on Flickr

So now the oily residue has stopped much to my delight, what a mess it was making, yes I should have replaced those when I stripped the engine but way back then I never guessed I would have it in the condition it is now,

Chris
 
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