TX1300F engine questions

   / TX1300F engine questions #21  
I did not replace the rod bearings. They looked fine.
I was given my TX and it had sat unused 10 to 15 years.
My friends neighbor bought it at an estate sale.
Apparently the neighbor could only get it to run
on one cylinder and after awhile gave up. But
they left the valve cover loose and some water
got into the engine. I had no clue what all
could have been wrong with mine so I kept
my cost down.
 
   / TX1300F engine questions
  • Thread Starter
#22  
So some interesting findings.

Looks like I was possibly wrong about the cylinder walls coking up, barring the engine over it seems that might have just been where the last lot of half burnt diesel settled after the last failed start - under the pistons last position was fine and the rings and scrapers seem to be doing there job too when barring over. So maybe the rings are ok after all.

On the negative side, I can't get the &%$$ing sump off! If you look at the picture below you can see that access to the front bolts is blocked by the pivot bracket.

Anyone encountered this problem before? Any trick to this I haven't spotted?

I haven't really got the time to drop the whole front frame off just to get the sump off, so it looks like I'll be skipping the piston rings and just hoping its just the exhaust valves causing my start issues.

SumpView.jpg
 
   / TX1300F engine questions #23  
I have the same tractor as you and I was able to remove
the 2 next to the pivot with an open end wrench.
The others I had a swivel joint on my socket.
 
   / TX1300F engine questions
  • Thread Starter
#24  
It looks a lot more room in the photo than in reality. Although it doesn't look like it in the photo, the cross member overlaps the bolt heads, making it impossible to get either an open spanner or socket on. I'm just off to have another go though. I don't know why it's different to yours, maybe the front game of mine had been shifted a bit too fit the loader, can't see why though!
 
   / TX1300F engine questions
  • Thread Starter
#25  
No, no luck, I'm either going to have to give up or devise some kind of tool get in there. It'll probably take the same amount of time to just drop the front frame and loader off.

I had been meaning to a full disassemble, clean, paint and rebuild, but I just don't have the time to do it right now.
 
   / TX1300F engine questions #26  
Hey Dan, I just went out to the garage to look at mine
and I must say mine is different than yours.
Here is a picture of mine. Mine has much more
clearance than yours.
 

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   / TX1300F engine questions #27  
Do you have a picture of the front of your tractor?
 
   / TX1300F engine questions
  • Thread Starter
#28  
Don't have a picture to hand. Will take some tomorrow for comparison.

Will also have a look at the TX1500 2WD I have, might not have the cross member but will still be interesting.

Bit of detective work here to see what has been modified from stock. As you can see from the photo by TX1300 is in pretty bad shape cosmetically, but because of the loader its a real workhorse. It really needs some TLC but it's got too much work to do before that.
 
   / TX1300F engine questions
  • Thread Starter
#29  
Hey Dan, I just went out to the garage to look at mine
and I must say mine is different than yours.
Here is a picture of mine. Mine has much more
clearance than yours.

Something else different on mine is the tie rod - mine looks to have been bent to fit into position. Clearly some mod has been done to the front end at some point - although you can't rule out variations in the model. My hunch is that something has been altered to accommodate the loader, will investigate tomorrow.
 
   / TX1300F engine questions #30  
Does yours have the KE70 engine. I was just looking at your
picture an your oil pan is right up to the cross member.
Also I noticed that tie rod but one thing at a time.
 

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