Unexpected new project: What round for Trailer Deck?

[dnw64]

I would second the suggestion of getting green oak from a sawmill, in the same thickness that was originally there.

If you do use PT, make sure you get Ground Contact rated, which has more chemicals in it.

 

[FTG-05]

I just redid a small trailer and used ground-contact rated 2x lumber (I used 2x10 since it worked out the best). Home Depot had some, and it was the first time I had seen them carry ground-contact in anything but posts. If you can find that it's a good option.

I was also glad to see that Lowes and HD carry self-tapping 1/4-20 screws for screwing into structural metal. These were identical to the screws that were on the trailer's original decking, except these new ones are rated for treated lumber. The original screws were raw steel and had rusted badly over the years. Some had rusted away to about 1/8" diameter!

And another question about that:

Which is better: 2x6, 2x8, 2x10, 2x12? Does it matter? There are 2x8s on there now.

 

[Deere Dude]

I would check with a pole barn company for treated wood, if in your area. They use as good of wood as you can get and should still sell it outright.

 

[ArlyA]

For doing bridges, we used mostly 8's because they allow plenty water to pass through them. If you go more narrow, it gets to be to many darn screws to add... For attachment fasteners we attached both end corners, then staggered a single screw on stringers. Personally, I just used standard treated lumber and if it dries well in a few years, then coat it with a preservative..

And another question about that: Which is better: 2x6, 2x8, 2x10, 2x12? Does it matter? There are 2x8s on there now.

 

[LouNY]

Personally I wouldn't bother with pressure treated lumber, I'd try for some aged or kiln dried Oak 2x8's.
Before I screwed them down I'd coat the bottom and sides with used motor oil screw it down and brush a coat on the top.
Recoat annually when it s good and dry.

 

[FTG-05]

For doing bridges, we used mostly 8's because they allow plenty water to pass through them. If you go more narrow, it gets to be to many darn screws to add... For attachment fasteners we attached both end corners, then staggered a single screw on stringers. Personally, I just used standard treated lumber and if it dries well in a few years, then coat it with a preservative..

When you say "standard treated lumber", do you mean non-ground contact PT lumber or something else?

Thanks,

 

[FTG-05]

Personally I wouldn't bother with pressure treated lumber, I'd try for some aged or kiln dried Oak 2x8's.
Before I screwed them down I'd coat the bottom and sides with used motor oil screw it down and brush a coat on the top.
Recoat annually when it s good and dry.

Depending on what my sawyer says, I'm leaning towards this.

Two things I don't know: Can he make rough sawn lumber at 1 1/2" thick (I don't see why not) and the cost vs. BBS PT lumber.

The other downside is that he's suffering from cancer, so it's been hard to get a hold of him. Don't know when he could get the job done. One of the nicest guys you'd ever want to meet. Cancer sucks.

 

[/pine]

White oak...

 

[dnw64]

And another question about that:

Which is better: 2x6, 2x8, 2x10, 2x12? Does it matter? There are 2x8s on there now.

Since it's square edged 2x12 will be strongest*. If it were T-G it wouldn't make too much difference since each piece is supported by another on both edges.

*But you may want to calculate how different sizes will fit. It wouldn't be great to use 2x12s and then find out there's a 3" space to fill when you got to the middle or edge. OTOH, if you have a table saw you could just figure out what size they all needed to be and rip to 10-1/2" or whatever it worked out to. BTW, PT will shrink a little, but not much. I would space them 1/8-1/4" to start with to ensure that water won't stay trapped between.

 

[dnw64]

White oak...

Not slash pine?

:laughing: