Used tractor recommendation for 40 acre property for $15-20k?

[prof fate]

I started wtih an older kubota, 14hp 1500lb and on a 2 acre lot it's fine. On the 25 acre horse farm...way small.

Went to the kioti (35hp, 29pto, 4300lb with loader and loaded tires) and WOW, night and day difference. On the 2 acre property it's like a bull in a china shop. One size bigger might be nice on the farm - fellow farmers here run a bigger frame size (some deere, some kubota, some new holland) - 45-50hp range. But that was mo money, created storage issues, and bigger tractor's need bigger implements which cost more..so like everything in life it's a compromise.

I've got 182 hours on mine since june. Using the heck out of it and it's been perfection.

To lift over 1000 lbs (it's rated at 1800ish) I need to hand an implement off the back, but only had to do that twice. It's great on hills.

 

[tradosaurus]

Do not hijack BOOSTMG's thread.

You have a legitimate topic.

Start a fresh thread with your topic in the title.

I don't see it as hijacking. The info on JD aluminum housing (as well as plastic hood and smaller front axle shaft) gives the OP a more informed decision on what tractor to buy.

Don't be a curmudgeon.

 

[rangerfredbob]

When I first bought my 5 acres, and my goal is to only have payments on the house so I needed a used tractor, goal was around $3000 and I found a Kubota L260 with loader and brush hog for $3500. Sure it's from the early 70's but its a trooper and probably similar to the size you need... 26hp, 4000lb (probably closer to 5000lb with filled tires and the loader), real tractor tires in a classic tractor setup so plenty of ground clearance. This size (5' wide) is very maneuverable and handy for most things...

I'm not saying to go that old, with your budget you should be able to get something similar from the 90's or newer without a problem, I've had some age related issues like only having one working glow plug, junk in the fuel system (found a bee in the screen before the pump once...)

 

[Jchonline]

I don't see it as hijacking. The info on JD aluminum housing (as well as plastic hood and smaller front axle shaft) gives the OP a more informed decision on what tractor to buy.

Don't be a curmudgeon.

He isnt, he is being considerate. There are thousands of directions a thread could go...this one needs to be focused on helping the OP. If you want to say “you may want to check into the JD rear ends in this size tractor as they may have had issues” that is fine. But if you are asking questions of others about the JD rear ends...that is hijacking.

 

[WM75Guy]

I think you will run out of tractor real fast with a BX. Don't just consider your current needs but any future needs. If don't need a lot of bells and whistles don't just look at SCUTs or CUTs but consider a utility class tractor. You can get more HP and capacity for your money.

I have 14 acres of mostly cleared pasture which we use for horses. The limiting factor for me has been FEL lifting capacity. My TC40DA/16LA is 40 HP but the FEL is rated at 1600# at the pins. It can do anything I ask of it for ground attachments such as running a 6' cutter, 6' tiller, or 8' arena rake.

The problem is when using forks the further away from the pins the less you can lift. I have to split pallet loads of shavings and such to get them off the trailer. As I get older I am looking to use it for more tasks so the next upgrade is a 3rd function and grapple for picking up downed limbs and such. I want to get a 10 bale hay grapple but it just doesn't have the strength for that. I either have to settle for a 5 bale grapple or get a bigger tractor.

 

[jeffgreef]

Two more cents- I agree with above posters that for your acreage a bx is too small, and in your price range you won’t find a new one large enough with the implements you need, so a used 30-35 hp is the way to go. I’ve been watching craigslist for a long time here in California for just such a tractor, don’t know what it’s like in Ohio, but here’s what I’ve learned:

The only tractor brands NOT to get are Chinese and Russian tractors (my opinion) only because they require a lot more repair and maintenance due to design and quality. As well, remember that ANY obscure, off-brand tractor may be hard to find parts or service for. I’d consider any of the familiar brands so long as I could verify its condition and it had the capabilities I need.

Here you can find used 30-35hp tractors with loaders and backhoes in the $20,000 range, with backhoe usually more, without, less. Often a few more smaller implements as well. I’ve considered going 500 miles from home to find the right used one, hiring a local mechanic to check it, then paying $.75 a mile to ship it. Do your homework.

 

[boostmg]

There's a lot of great replies here ... getting me thinking in lots of directions.

The best thing I have to compare to this experience is cars ... I've been into cars for a while and like working on them so I can compare some lessons learned there to here.

1. I'm certainly of the belief that I prefer a more powerful engine vs a less powerful one. So whatever motor I get I would want it to be the equivalent of a v8 powered SUV - pretty much more than you need, which means less stress on the motor.

2. I don't know anything about Tractor motors but when I look at vehicles I look at the motor and try to find bulletproof ones. Are tractor motors made by certain manufacturers and shared amongst tractor brands? Are some motors known for their reliability over others?

3. I have looked at some used one .. the hours I've seen seem to be 1500 hours or less ... how many is too many? Also are there "service" intervals for tractors wherby a certain "hour mark" they pretty much require, new this, new that, etc?

4. I think maybe my eyes are bigger than my wallet right now, and the more I think the more maybe a backhoe isn't a critical accessory I need right now. Are there any critical "must have" accessories when buying? For example is a bucket loader a must have?

5. With tractors, is rust a concern? Do some manufacturers use better metal than other? Or maybe older built machines have better metal than new?

6. When it comes to attachments and parts are tractors universal? Can I mount any type of tractor backhoe to any tractor?, what about other accessories?

7. What usually breaks on tractors? Are they hard to work on or fix? Are some tractor parts more "universal" than others, or easier to find than others?

8. What tractors do you think have the best communities around them? One of the most helpful things for me is when I have a problem, to find forums and others that have had much experience with the same machines.

 

[TheMadOne]

There's a lot of great replies here ... getting me thinking in lots of directions.

The best thing I have to compare to this experience is cars ... I've been into cars for a while and like working on them so I can compare some lessons learned there to here.

1. I'm certainly of the belief that I prefer a more powerful engine vs a less powerful one. So whatever motor I get I would want it to be the equivalent of a v8 powered SUV - pretty much more than you need, which means less stress on the motor.

Then what you want to look for is the largest displacement engine with the lowest engine RPM required to achieve 540 PTO RPM.

2. I don't know anything about Tractor motors but when I look at vehicles I look at the motor and try to find bulletproof ones. Are tractor motors made by certain manufacturers and shared amongst tractor brands? Are some motors known for their reliability over others?

Not really. Branson tractors are powered by what amounts to a Cummins if that helps.

3. I have looked at some used one .. the hours I've seen seem to be 1500 hours or less ... how many is too many? Also are there "service" intervals for tractors wherby a certain "hour mark" they pretty much require, new this, new that, etc?

Maintanince is going to be the issue with any used tractor, just like a car. Typically I wouldn't be afraid of anything with less than 5k hours on it. Service intervals are throughout the life of the tractor and you shouldn't shy away from a well maintained tractor just because it's coming up on a service. You'll at least know that one was done properly.

4. I think maybe my eyes are bigger than my wallet right now, and the more I think the more maybe a backhoe isn't a critical accessory I need right now. Are there any critical "must have" accessories when buying? For example is a bucket loader a must have?

A FEL(Front End Loader) is the most critical implement to have for most of us. It not only allows us to move material in the bucket, but is a platform for adding forks, snow blades, and grapples. You can do a lot with just a FEL, shredder, and box blade.

5. With tractors, is rust a concern? Do some manufacturers use better metal than other? Or maybe older built machines have better metal than new?

Tractors are not made from thin hydroformed steel. Rust only becomes a serious issue if the tractor was used to spread caustic substances(salt/fertilizer), and was not properly cleaned afterwards.

6. When it comes to attachments and parts are tractors universal? Can I mount any type of tractor backhoe to any tractor?, what about other accessories?

No, backhoes are proprietary, and typically require a subframe. There are 3pt versions, but they are not recommended as they put undue stress on your 3pt assembly and have been known to rip the top link mount right out of the rear end housing. Any implement that connects to the tractor using the rear PTO, 3pt hitch, or drawbar will work across any brand. Those each have their own requirements, PTO HP (min and max), 3pt category(1, 2, 3), and max towing weight of your tractor.

7. What usually breaks on tractors? Are they hard to work on or fix? Are some tractor parts more "universal" than others, or easier to find than others?

A tractor, at the end of the day, is a diesel vehicle with a hydraulic system. Most breakages are either hydraulic or electrical. I'm unsure how to best answer your "easier to fix" question.

8. What tractors do you think have the best communities around them? One of the most helpful things for me is when I have a problem, to find forums and others that have had much experience with the same machines.

By shear volume, Kubota, Case, and John Deere have the largest communities. Case doesn't really play in the compact realm much.

 

[jeff9366]

The best thing I have to compare to this experience is cars ... I've been into cars for a while and like working on them so I can compare some lessons learned there to here.

1. I'm certainly of the belief that I prefer a more powerful engine vs a less powerful one. So whatever motor I get I would want it to be the equivalent of a v8 powered SUV - pretty much more than you need, which means less stress on the motor.

2. I don't know anything about Tractor motors but when I look at vehicles I look at the motor and try to find bulletproof ones. Are tractor motors made by certain manufacturers and shared amongst tractor brands? Are some motors known for their reliability over others?

1. Cars and trucks primarily overcome air resistance over 30 mph.

Tractors pull implements through dirt, DIRT RESISTANCE, from '0' mph to 10 mph for compact tractors.

Tractors with just a mid-power engine will simply spin their wheels/tires in typical tractor applications unless properly ballasted. Dirt provides little traction relative to concrete roads.

Heavier tractors are constructed on larger frames and longer wheelbases. Heavier tractors are built with thicker steel to withstand greater stress. Heavier tractors have larger diameter wheels/tires, increasing ground clearance. Heavier tractors with large diameter wheels/tires have more tractive power pulling ground contact implements, pushing a loader bucket into dirt and pushing snow. Larger wheels and tires permit heavier tractors to bridge holes, ruts and tree debris with less operator perturbation.

TRACTOR WEIGHT FIRST. TRACTOR HORESPOWER SECOND. TRACTOR BALLAST THIRD.


2. Diesel engines are ideal internal combustion engines for tractors.
Diesels are heavy; weight is your friend operating tractors.
Diesels provide lots of torque and run relatively cool as revs are low relative to gas.
Diesels require fueling less frequently per unit of work than gas engines. Most writing here tote and fuel compact tractors from five gallon containers.

Tractor implements break/bend occasionally as dirt contact parts encounter exceptional resistance while sunk. I am on good terms with the local high quality welding shop. Heavy implements break/bend less often than light implements.




VIDEO: So you want to TRADE UP for a new Tractor? - TMT - YouTube

 

[rangerfredbob]

Try auctions, there's an auction house near me that does 3 a year for mostly farm stuff, most of the implements my family has comes from there, we've gotten several tractors there for good deals, a Farmall M for $750 with 3 point, a Ford 8600 for $750 (might need clutch, has injection issues but runs) and a Ford 4600 for $4700 I think but had FEL. If you could find something like that 4600 for a reasonable deal you'd probably be set, it's simple, 50hp and that 201CI 3 cylinder is pretty easy to work on, we redid the head on my brothers Ford 4000 (same thing just 25 years older) and it really wasn't bad and I think all in with machining and parts it was around $500.