Used tractor recommendation for 40 acre property for $15-20k?

[prof fate]

The CS (littlist) kiotis have the loader hyd setup on the outside. the CK's don't.

Also, different years make a difference...the older KL's seems antiquated to me compared to the CK's that replaced them.

Kioti's have the highest hydraulic flow - means you can lift and dump at the same time on the loader - many brands you can do one OR the other, but not both at the same time.
at idle it will pick up the tractor..many won't do that either.

Kioti has the highest ground clearance - an issue with 'sticks' so to speak should be less.

Why are all those folks driving in the 'sticks' anyway? LOL

Friend has a NH with the hydro control as a lever on the dash. Kubota has 1 rocker pedal. Kioti has 2 pedals. I prefer pedals - keeps your hands free to steer and operate the loader. I would probably prefer the rocker pedal over the 2 pedal.had a rocker pedal cub cadet when I was young, made sense to me. the two pedal is too much like a car...right is gas, left is brake..no, it's reverse. ****, hit something. Well, i've gotten used to it but still think it's not the best concept.

As for speed of loader..it's all fast when it's new to you..then you get used to it and it's slow...perception.

Best advice is to go test drive all of them, or yoru short list and decide what YOU like, what fits YOU the best.

I went down the kioti rabbit hole online last night. TBH at first they seemed awesome but then some stuff kind of irked me. For example some of the negative stuff I saw was around design flaws and maybe shortcuts. Like one guy said his whole tractor became inoperable because a stick unplugged something on the undercarriage, another guy said at first he loved it, but over the years was very dissapointed with the FEL, saying his older kioti bucket was much snappier, another guy stating the location of outside hydraulic QDs would get disconnected by a stick, electrical issues (which some were saying is a dealer issue).

This basically got me back to thinking about cars. I used to have a honda civic and there were a lot of little things that pissed me off about it ... basically things that were overlooked because they didn't spend enough resources thinking it through (b/c it's cheap) ... then my next car was a BMW and they seemed to have thought of everything, even things I wouldn't think of. Overtime not having to deal with dumb little "BS" has been worth it's weight in gold.

I'm new to tractors, so I don't know if there is a "well thought out" tractor or if they are all similar, I just know when I see stupid issues it REALLY drives me crazy. If something breaks or fails thats fine, but when I can't have full confidence in using something because I know corners were cut there ... then that's when I would prefer to dump my money more into quality.

For example today in car world if I had 27k ... I'd buy a used BMW 2015 335 with low miles, instead of a brand new loaded toyota camry, because I know I'm getting a higher quality machine, with more time spent thinking through every little detail to make the experience of owning one more enjoyable, rather than something that sells me on features and looks, but once purchases starts to rear it's quirks which can just be chalked up to "we didn't think about that" or "we didn't have time to fix that or make it perfect".

I'm not trying to rag on KIOTI at all, I may still end up with one, I'm just saying little issues like that have a big weight to me. But hey if all tractors share that commonality then that must be the way it is.

As another example though, people were saying the john deere's wiper fluid and wipers sucked. If the rest of the machine never bugged me out but that was one of the issue I would prefer that.

I have to do more digging into all the brands I guess to see the nuances of all of them.

 

[Tennsawdust]

Hey .. we have a 40acre property ... it's about half woods and half fields.

We have trees and rocky areas and wet areas.

I'd use the tractor for:

- moving rocks, clearing paths making them nice
- food plots
- diverting water (backhoe?)
- mowing grass
- Other?

I'm looking at a place I can start when looking at tractors, right now I have been gravitating towards a kubota bx22/23 ... but would love to hear some recommendations as to what I should look for.

I think you've gotten some good advice with regard to size. As good as the BX series is (and other subcompacts like the RK24, and LS MT series) I think you would very quickly realize you did not buy enough tractor. Mowing any appreciable amount of grass with a 4 foot brush hog will take forever. You will want something that will run at least a 5 foot hog. If you are considering Kioti you should take a look at the CK2610. It may be just enough tractor for you and you could buy it new with an attachment or two for around $20K. It will run the 5 foot brush hog. Just make sure it has the newer (4030) loader on it because that one is quite a bit more capable than the older one.

As for used machines you can search in your price range at websites like TractorHouse and get a good idea of what you should be able to get. Used machines in your local area will be hit and miss. You should be able to find a decent compact or utility sized tractor in your price range. Look for something with a loader. Hours are not always the best indicator. Utility tractors with 5,000 hours on them are not uncommon. In most cases the physical condition of the tractor is a good indicator of how it was used. If it is worn, but everything is there and works then it probably saw reasonable care. If it is beat to heck then you should assume it was abused and neglected mechanically. Pay attention to tire condition. Rear tires for a tractor can sail past $1000 pretty easily so you need to factor that in as you look. You should be able to find compact tractors with reasonably low hours (I would consider anything under 1,000 hours as low hours). If you are lucky you will run across a nice garage queen.

 

[boostmg]

All the advice has been excellent.

At this point it seems like I'm thinking something like a Kubota L or Kioti CK is the direction I need to go...

A couple things I'm asking are:

1. How does horsepower relate to usability, more HP more pushing pulling power, more PTO power, I'm not crazy about 25/26hp, but thinking maybe the 33-35 ... or 39 if i was lucky would be the route to go.

2. I'm not sure how far is "too far" for a dealer. Nearest Kioti dealer to me is about 1:40-2 hrs away. Kubota is closer.

 

[TheMadOne]

All the advice has been excellent.

At this point it seems like I'm thinking something like a Kubota L or Kioti CK is the direction I need to go...

A couple things I'm asking are:

1. How does horsepower relate to usability, more HP more pushing pulling power, more PTO power, I'm not crazy about 25/26hp, but thinking maybe the 33-35 ... or 39 if i was lucky would be the route to go.

2. I'm not sure how far is "too far" for a dealer. Nearest Kioti dealer to me is about 1:40-2 hrs away. Kubota is closer.

PTO HP and weight are the critical stats. PTO HP determines what size of PTO driven implement you'll be able to work with. Weight determines what size ground engaging implements you'll be able to pull.

At the size of your property I think a standard L would be hard pressed to keep after.

I'm on break, and took a quick stroll through tractorhouse.

Not sure where in Ohio you are, but I'd say this:

https://www.tractorhouse.com/listings/farm-equipment/for-sale/30655387/kubota-l3240?ST=ohio&CTRY=usa

Would be a good place to start.

And if it were my money I'd take a good look at:

https://www.tractorhouse.com/listin...5910419/massey-ferguson-4225?ST=ohio&CTRY=usa

Just my 2 cents.

 

[prof fate]

weight is the first big thing - bigger is better for the most part. Mowing grass, like on a lawn..4400lb of tractor is like driving a pickup aroudn your yard..if its wet/damp/soft you WILL leave marks or even ruts.

I went from 1500lb to 4k (w/ loader and loaded tires) and the difference is HUGE - hills (sidways in particular), implement 'weight' no longer the tail wagging the dog syndrome.

HP - if you have a lot of hills a bit more is helpful when going up hill - you won't have to slow as much.
Bigger implements - rule of thumb is 5hp per foot of brush hog - so 30hp pto (35hp tractor, more or less) is 6' brush hog. Same idea for roto tiller or finish mower.

Less hp means mowing slower or more often (so grass isn't so tall).

Dealer distance...When I had my kubota I went every 6 weeks - a 40 year old tractor can do that to ya.
the kioti..went there to look, sign loan app, went back to sign final papers. Haven't been back since. Maybe late this year I'll need filters so I'll go there. Fluids are common enough I can get them anywhere. Warranty work..if needed..the first pickup trip is free.

I didn't look at LS - nearest dealer is nearly 2 hours away, so I get your concern. Kubota dealers, I have 3 in the area, are all an hour away. Kioti also an hour away. Mahindra and deere are slightly closer (30, 40 min respectively). RK is now the closest at 20 minutes.

But then my car dealer is 45 min away (no subaru dealers in my county). Ah, the rural life LOL

get COMPLETE price quotes - kioti includes the quick attach bucket (A $500 option on kubota), bucket level indicator ($75 on kubota), grab handles on both sides/fenders ($75 on kubota).
I got rear remotes, mirror, floor mat, horn, arm rest, link pedal, cruise control, loaded rear tires for $695. Kubota was $900 for rear remote alone. I then added a crank handle leveler for the 3pt, $90.

Small details, but they add up in price and convenience. Link pedal..i dont' use it. Cruise? every hour I mow I use it. arm rest I use all the time, same for grab handles and mirror, even the horn (to chase the horses outta my way)

All the advice has been excellent.

At this point it seems like I'm thinking something like a Kubota L or Kioti CK is the direction I need to go...

A couple things I'm asking are:

1. How does horsepower relate to usability, more HP more pushing pulling power, more PTO power, I'm not crazy about 25/26hp, but thinking maybe the 33-35 ... or 39 if i was lucky would be the route to go.

2. I'm not sure how far is "too far" for a dealer. Nearest Kioti dealer to me is about 1:40-2 hrs away. Kubota is closer.

 

[shooterdon]

I bought my first tractor last summer. JD 855. It was not the right machine for me but I have learned a lot by having it. It cost over $2k to fix it up. If/when I trade it, I will not lose much if anything.

Be prepared for that. It is easy to make compromises to get on with it but you may regret it later. With a used machine, the “hit” is not as much. Budget for repairs.

I am now looking at a new machine to take advantage of low financing and to get a warranty. These are attractive benefits that a used machine will not have.

Make a list of the work you need to do, and it’s frequency. Some tasks may be better sourcing out.

Good luck

 

[Tennsawdust]

I don't think it would be unusual for the buyer to be a couple of hours from the dealer. There is not a tractor dealer on every corner and those of us who need tractors tend to be in rural areas. I have a Kioti-LS dealer and a Rural King store about 45 minutes away. There are a handful of other dealers in the 1-2 hour range. You should ask about service and see what it is going to cost you to get the tractor back to the dealer should the need arise. Some dealers won't mind sending a truck to pick it up, others will leave it up to you to get it there. Since I live in the boondocks I am factoring a trailer into my buying decision.

 

[hiddentacocatneddih]

I have only 6 acres and I was concerned with anything under 30 hp not being enough tractor for what I want to do. I ended up with a 45 hp tractor and while a 5-6000 lb tractor on Ag tires isn't the best on the lawn, I have a lawnmower for that (less than an acre of yard). With 40 acres I would definitely be looking 40-70 hp. Should be easier to find a used tractor in that range for 15-20k. I paid less than $5k for mine. That size used floats around the cost on modern SCUTs if you look for machines from 2000's and older.

 

[boostmg]

The only "wrench" i can throw in this whole conversation is that there are some "wetter" areas on my property, it's one of the things we need to fix. It's essentially rain runoff, and it makes fields wet sometimes, and some paths get wet.

Tractors getting stuck is a huge concern, I don't know how tractors are in the mud, or if there's anything you can do to assist them in the mud. Not sure if heavier or lighter is better in those situations.

Either way getting control of the water this spring/summer is a top priority, mostly so then I can bring a tractor through in peace and then make more elegant solutions to the water issues.

 

[MossRoad]

The only "wrench" i can throw in this whole conversation is that there are some "wetter" areas on my property, it's one of the things we need to fix. It's essentially rain runoff, and it makes fields wet sometimes, and some paths get wet.

Tractors getting stuck is a huge concern, I don't know how tractors are in the mud, or if there's anything you can do to assist them in the mud. Not sure if heavier or lighter is better in those situations.

Either way getting control of the water this spring/summer is a top priority, mostly so then I can bring a tractor through in peace and then make more elegant solutions to the water issues.

Then you'll love that advice for getting a big heavy tractor when you're hiring a tow-truck to get your machine out of the back 40....

Tractor weight and ground clearances are over emphasized. Heavy tractors are no good with the wrong tires. Light tractors won't pull stumps or plow well. Unless you're driving over logs or boulders, or trenching mud ruts in a logging road, ground clearance isn't much of a factor. My little machine only has about 7" of ground clearance but I can go over 12" logs. How's that possible? :laughing: It never gets stuck in mud. It puts less PSI on the ground contact patch than my size 13 shoes. I sink deeper in mud than it does. Things like that need to be taken into consideration.

For your budget, I'd skip the backhoe, plan out your projects a little bit in advance, and do weekend rentals of small, tracked excavators. I can get a weekend rental for under $300. The little excavators are way better at excavating than a backhoe on a small tractor. Way better. It's a better use of your money. We rented a small tracked excavator to put in a 24x32 garage foundation 48" deep. I thought that would take all weekend. It only took a couple hours. I spent two more hours digging small trees out, and returned it for only a half-day rental VS the entire weekend. :thumbsup:

Also, consider purchasing a larger used machine, knock out all your large tasks in a few years, then selling that large machine and downsizing to a property maintenance sized machine. That worked well for us.

Back around 1990 we purchased a very used mid 70's IH2500b. That was about a 15 year old machine at the time with several thousand hours on it. It's an 8000# tractor loader with 50pto horsepower, a dedicated loader with oversized lift cylinders and a 3/4 yard bucket. Had a cab, too, but that's irrelevant. We used that to knock out the large jobs, like cutting in a road from the highway, knocking down some larger trees, and brush hogging between rows of trees in a plantation for 5 years.

You could probably find a nice, larger used machine, purchase it, do your large tasks for a couple years, and sell it for darn near what you paid for it.

We bought our small machine to mow/brushcut a couple acres of meadows, a couple miles of walking trails, haul firewood out of the woods (we heat with wood, about 6 cords per year), plow the driveway snow at our home about 9 miles away, and mow our 1 acre of lawn every week 8 months out of the year. We also used it to maintain 4 ball diamonds at a little league park, and another at our kids' school/church.

After we bought the small machine, the large one just sat there for several years, so we sold it. If we ever need a large task done, I'd rent a machine for the weekend. Otherwise, a smaller machine like a BX is fine for property maintenance like you seem to be describing.

So, as others have mentioned:
- really think about the tasks you want to accomplish. No just today, but in the future.
- how much time do you want to dedicate to those tasks?
- what size machine will do those tasks in the time you think is acceptable?
- how much money do you want to spend on a machine large enough to do those tasks in the time you think is acceptable?
- adjust your desired sized machine, your budget, and your time to be realistic.

You may find one machine that does it all or you may find you need a couple different sized machines. But most importantly....

take your time!

Sit on and drive as many machines as possible before making a decision. Don't go just by what you read or are told. Sit on it. Do some test tasks with it if at all possible. You can quickly get the feel of if a machine feels right or not. Consider the ergonomics. Nothing worse than sitting on an uncomfortable machine for a few hours. Stuff like that.

Good luck in your search.