Used tractor recommendation for 40 acre property for $15-20k?

[boostmg]

Hey .. we have a 40acre property ... it's about half woods and half fields.

We have trees and rocky areas and wet areas.

I'd use the tractor for:

- moving rocks, clearing paths making them nice
- food plots
- diverting water (backhoe?)
- mowing grass
- Other?

I'm looking at a place I can start when looking at tractors, right now I have been gravitating towards a kubota bx22/23 ... but would love to hear some recommendations as to what I should look for.

 

[Jchonline]

1. Do you have a house on the place?
2. Rocks get heavy quickly and the biggest challenge with a small machine is getting them out of the ground. Once out you can skid better than carry (small machine).
3. Mowing 20 acres with a BX is something I dont even think Diggin It would do. How much are you mowing?
4. Ground clearance is an issue on unfinished property with the SCUTs. Consider this carefully.
5. For drainage are we talking digging a trench to put in a 4 inch pipe, or digging a natural trench for water to run down? The bucket is about 8 inches wide on these small machines and the reach about 6 feet. Research this carefully to ensure it will do what you want. Lots of other uses for a BH, but they are an expensive implement and you probably do want to buy it with the tractor.
6. Food plots - not my wheelhouse but if we are talking acres of plowing/seeding I just dont see a BX doing it well. It depends on your soil and how much ground clearance you need.


Take a look at an L series machine in the Kubota line...maybe even a L2501 if you dont need a cab. HP goes up from there, and should be considered for HP intensive tasks (large width 3 point mowing in heavy/wet/hilly terrain for example).

Other brands to consider based on locale of reputable dealers: LS (XG or XR), Massey (17 series), Deere (3 or 4 series), Kioti (NX maybe 1 smaller), RK, TYM (they make RK fyi), Mahindra.

 

[boostmg]

1. Do you have a house on the place?
yes

2. Rocks get heavy quickly and the biggest challenge with a small machine is getting them out of the ground. Once out you can skid better than carry (small machine).
We don't have any MASSIVE boulders, but annoying rocks .. still probably 2-300 lbs

3. Mowing 20 acres with a BX is something I dont even think Diggin It would do. How much are you mowing?
We'd probably just mow a path, it's high grass, we probably won't be mowing the whole thing, just clearing a path to drive through, we did it this year with a pull behind motorized flail mower we got from china

4. Ground clearance is an issue on unfinished property with the SCUTs. Consider this carefully.
good point

5. For drainage are we talking digging a trench to put in a 4 inch pipe, or digging a natural trench for water to run down? The bucket is about 8 inches wide on these small machines and the reach about 6 feet. Research this carefully to ensure it will do what you want. Lots of other uses for a BH, but they are an expensive implement and you probably do want to buy it with the tractor.
As we speak we do have 2 projects, one is laying drainage pipe from our gutters on the house, the other is creating a path to let water flow naturally into a creek. For the water diversion I am going to try and tackle that this summer myself without a machine just because the template of the water flow is there and it just needs some assistance

6. Food plots - not my wheelhouse but if we are talking acres of plowing/seeding I just dont see a BX doing it well. It depends on your soil and how much ground clearance you need.
we wouldn't do acres .. probably 20x20ft ... 20x30ft patches .. maybe more .. maybe 1 acre even


Thanks for the replies on the other brands .. are there any brands to stay away from? Like new hollands?

In my initial research it seems like Kubota, Mahindra .. are decent bangs for bucks.

 

[jeff9366]

Any brand of well maintained, used tractor will serve you better than The Best Brand tractor poorly maintained.

Search for a ONE OWNER, owner/operated tractor.

Search for a tractor where the operator normally operates it at no more than 75% of its limits, more only occasionally.

Owners who buy too light may operate near 100% much of the time.

VIDEO: How To Evaluate A Used Tractor - YouTube

We have a 40acre property ... it's about half woods and half fields.

We have trees and rocky areas and wet areas.

I'd use the tractor for:- diverting water (backhoe?)

A Middlebuster (AKA Potato Plow) may suffice.
VIDEO: Middlebuster trenching - YouTube


I recommend a tractor with a bare tractor weight of 2,600 to 3,600 pounds and 25-horsepower to 35-horsepower. Shop tractor weight first, horsepower second. Tractors in this weight range will have 12" to 14" ground clearance.

The fundamental importance of TRACTOR WEIGHT eludes many tractor shoppers. Heavier tractor weight is more important for most tractor applications than increased tractor horsepower. Bare tractor weight is a tractor specification easily found in sales brochures and web sites, readily comparable across tractor brands and tractor models, new and used.

 

[prof fate]

bx is WAY too small...think L or bigger maybe.
For your price - used.
Or learn to like payments...

Rocks..heavy. You'll want a loader. loaded tires on the tractor.
food plots - disking, plowing or tilling...for a 5' tiller or disk you'll need/want 3000lb or more tractor and 30hp min.
hoe- adds a lot of cost to the deal - $5-8k on a new one. You can do a lot with a box blade, back blade, disks and bucket.
Mowing..bigger tractor can run a bigger brush hog for the rough areas, and a rear finish mower. Often a second machine for finish mowing is a better option. You can often get a zero turn for the cost of the mower deck on a bigger tractor, and you won't have to take it off/on all the time you want to use the tractor for other stuff.

I got a kioti CK3510 w/ options and loader for $22k (300/month for 6 years).
Most of my attachments I bought used - 6' brush hog 550, 5' finish mower 400, 5' disk 300, pallet forks new 270, post hole auger new 800, box blade new 450, back blade used 150

I may go for a bigger finish mower, hard to find 6 footers. May do a plow...or a tiller. Issue is i can break ground with the disk and till with a rear tine I got for $150...one for the tractor is $1000 used and double that new.

I cna hire a hoe when I need one...or rent one. Vs $7500 for one for my tractor. There is some residutal value in that when I sell it...what, 10, 20 years from now?

My tiller is a walk behind reverse rotation and I can till up ground at about 1/4 acre/hour and never break a sweat.

Hey .. we have a 40acre property ... it's about half woods and half fields.

We have trees and rocky areas and wet areas.

I'd use the tractor for:

- moving rocks, clearing paths making them nice
- food plots
- diverting water (backhoe?)
- mowing grass
- Other?

I'm looking at a place I can start when looking at tractors, right now I have been gravitating towards a kubota bx22/23 ... but would love to hear some recommendations as to what I should look for.

 

[TheMadOne]

1. Do you have a house on the place?
yes

2. Rocks get heavy quickly and the biggest challenge with a small machine is getting them out of the ground. Once out you can skid better than carry (small machine).
We don't have any MASSIVE boulders, but annoying rocks .. still probably 2-300 lbs

3. Mowing 20 acres with a BX is something I dont even think Diggin It would do. How much are you mowing?
We'd probably just mow a path, it's high grass, we probably won't be mowing the whole thing, just clearing a path to drive through, we did it this year with a pull behind motorized flail mower we got from china

4. Ground clearance is an issue on unfinished property with the SCUTs. Consider this carefully.
good point

5. For drainage are we talking digging a trench to put in a 4 inch pipe, or digging a natural trench for water to run down? The bucket is about 8 inches wide on these small machines and the reach about 6 feet. Research this carefully to ensure it will do what you want. Lots of other uses for a BH, but they are an expensive implement and you probably do want to buy it with the tractor.
As we speak we do have 2 projects, one is laying drainage pipe from our gutters on the house, the other is creating a path to let water flow naturally into a creek. For the water diversion I am going to try and tackle that this summer myself without a machine just because the template of the water flow is there and it just needs some assistance

6. Food plots - not my wheelhouse but if we are talking acres of plowing/seeding I just dont see a BX doing it well. It depends on your soil and how much ground clearance you need.
we wouldn't do acres .. probably 20x20ft ... 20x30ft patches .. maybe more .. maybe 1 acre even


Thanks for the replies on the other brands .. are there any brands to stay away from? Like new hollands?

In my initial research it seems like Kubota, Mahindra .. are decent bangs for bucks.

There's not brands, so much as models. Kubota B3350(engine/def issues), Mahindra 45 series(Non-syncro gears and reported build quality issues), JD 3Es(aluminum rear)

That said, there are owners of all these on TBN and most are happy, or at least content, with their purchase and work within the limitations of the given tractor. I just wouldn't recommend them "off the cuff".

With 15-20K you could very easily go ham. You could probably grab a "real" TLB for that.

My 2cents, if you only have the two digging projects, is to rent an excavator to do them. With your budget you could easily get an older loader tractor and implements if you forgo the backhoe.

I really don't think a BX is the correct size for the jobs you list. Plus tractors tend to shrink after you've put a few hours on them. I'd want to be around 40-50hp and 3500lbs minimum tractor weight if it was me. I do tend to trend on the "bigger is better" side for TBN, though.

 

[finn1]

I see continued negative comments on the JD re the aluminum rear end housing.

Has anyone personally had an issue with one?

And I don’t mean your neighbor’s cousin’s nephew!

 

[jeff9366]

Do not hijack BOOSTMG's thread.

You have a legitimate topic.

Start a fresh thread with your topic in the title.

 

[atsah]

No worries about the Deere's rear end, I would suggest a little bigger tractor for 40 acre's, I think you would find a SCUT to be a little small. Something you could go a little bigger on the implements would cut down on time mowing etc, you may wind up cutting more than you thought.

 

[Jchonline]

1. Do you have a house on the place?
yes

2. Rocks get heavy quickly and the biggest challenge with a small machine is getting them out of the ground. Once out you can skid better than carry (small machine).
We don't have any MASSIVE boulders, but annoying rocks .. still probably 2-300 lbs

3. Mowing 20 acres with a BX is something I dont even think Diggin It would do. How much are you mowing?
We'd probably just mow a path, it's high grass, we probably won't be mowing the whole thing, just clearing a path to drive through, we did it this year with a pull behind motorized flail mower we got from china

4. Ground clearance is an issue on unfinished property with the SCUTs. Consider this carefully.
good point

5. For drainage are we talking digging a trench to put in a 4 inch pipe, or digging a natural trench for water to run down? The bucket is about 8 inches wide on these small machines and the reach about 6 feet. Research this carefully to ensure it will do what you want. Lots of other uses for a BH, but they are an expensive implement and you probably do want to buy it with the tractor.
As we speak we do have 2 projects, one is laying drainage pipe from our gutters on the house, the other is creating a path to let water flow naturally into a creek. For the water diversion I am going to try and tackle that this summer myself without a machine just because the template of the water flow is there and it just needs some assistance

6. Food plots - not my wheelhouse but if we are talking acres of plowing/seeding I just dont see a BX doing it well. It depends on your soil and how much ground clearance you need.
we wouldn't do acres .. probably 20x20ft ... 20x30ft patches .. maybe more .. maybe 1 acre even


Thanks for the replies on the other brands .. are there any brands to stay away from? Like new hollands?

In my initial research it seems like Kubota, Mahindra .. are decent bangs for bucks.

Great feedback, thanks for responding. NH is a LS with a different sticker and higher price. They are just fine and I should have mentioned them. However I would buy a LS over NH, just due to the above.

So it sounds like for what you have today, the BX would work. However the real question is what will you want to do with the place in 5 years, 10 years? Ideally we want to prevent you from needing a second machine, or trading in the BX for something larger you should have gotten to begin with.

Try and think about all the things you might want to do a few years out. Can you still get those things done with the BX?

 

[prof fate]

I started wtih an older kubota, 14hp 1500lb and on a 2 acre lot it's fine. On the 25 acre horse farm...way small.

Went to the kioti (35hp, 29pto, 4300lb with loader and loaded tires) and WOW, night and day difference. On the 2 acre property it's like a bull in a china shop. One size bigger might be nice on the farm - fellow farmers here run a bigger frame size (some deere, some kubota, some new holland) - 45-50hp range. But that was mo money, created storage issues, and bigger tractor's need bigger implements which cost more..so like everything in life it's a compromise.

I've got 182 hours on mine since june. Using the heck out of it and it's been perfection.

To lift over 1000 lbs (it's rated at 1800ish) I need to hand an implement off the back, but only had to do that twice. It's great on hills.

 

[tradosaurus]

Do not hijack BOOSTMG's thread.

You have a legitimate topic.

Start a fresh thread with your topic in the title.

I don't see it as hijacking. The info on JD aluminum housing (as well as plastic hood and smaller front axle shaft) gives the OP a more informed decision on what tractor to buy.

Don't be a curmudgeon.

 

[rangerfredbob]

When I first bought my 5 acres, and my goal is to only have payments on the house so I needed a used tractor, goal was around $3000 and I found a Kubota L260 with loader and brush hog for $3500. Sure it's from the early 70's but its a trooper and probably similar to the size you need... 26hp, 4000lb (probably closer to 5000lb with filled tires and the loader), real tractor tires in a classic tractor setup so plenty of ground clearance. This size (5' wide) is very maneuverable and handy for most things...

I'm not saying to go that old, with your budget you should be able to get something similar from the 90's or newer without a problem, I've had some age related issues like only having one working glow plug, junk in the fuel system (found a bee in the screen before the pump once...)

 

[Jchonline]

I don't see it as hijacking. The info on JD aluminum housing (as well as plastic hood and smaller front axle shaft) gives the OP a more informed decision on what tractor to buy.

Don't be a curmudgeon.

He isnt, he is being considerate. There are thousands of directions a thread could go...this one needs to be focused on helping the OP. If you want to say “you may want to check into the JD rear ends in this size tractor as they may have had issues” that is fine. But if you are asking questions of others about the JD rear ends...that is hijacking.

 

[WM75Guy]

I think you will run out of tractor real fast with a BX. Don't just consider your current needs but any future needs. If don't need a lot of bells and whistles don't just look at SCUTs or CUTs but consider a utility class tractor. You can get more HP and capacity for your money.

I have 14 acres of mostly cleared pasture which we use for horses. The limiting factor for me has been FEL lifting capacity. My TC40DA/16LA is 40 HP but the FEL is rated at 1600# at the pins. It can do anything I ask of it for ground attachments such as running a 6' cutter, 6' tiller, or 8' arena rake.

The problem is when using forks the further away from the pins the less you can lift. I have to split pallet loads of shavings and such to get them off the trailer. As I get older I am looking to use it for more tasks so the next upgrade is a 3rd function and grapple for picking up downed limbs and such. I want to get a 10 bale hay grapple but it just doesn't have the strength for that. I either have to settle for a 5 bale grapple or get a bigger tractor.

 

[jeffgreef]

Two more cents- I agree with above posters that for your acreage a bx is too small, and in your price range you won’t find a new one large enough with the implements you need, so a used 30-35 hp is the way to go. I’ve been watching craigslist for a long time here in California for just such a tractor, don’t know what it’s like in Ohio, but here’s what I’ve learned:

The only tractor brands NOT to get are Chinese and Russian tractors (my opinion) only because they require a lot more repair and maintenance due to design and quality. As well, remember that ANY obscure, off-brand tractor may be hard to find parts or service for. I’d consider any of the familiar brands so long as I could verify its condition and it had the capabilities I need.

Here you can find used 30-35hp tractors with loaders and backhoes in the $20,000 range, with backhoe usually more, without, less. Often a few more smaller implements as well. I’ve considered going 500 miles from home to find the right used one, hiring a local mechanic to check it, then paying $.75 a mile to ship it. Do your homework.

 

[boostmg]

There's a lot of great replies here ... getting me thinking in lots of directions.

The best thing I have to compare to this experience is cars ... I've been into cars for a while and like working on them so I can compare some lessons learned there to here.

1. I'm certainly of the belief that I prefer a more powerful engine vs a less powerful one. So whatever motor I get I would want it to be the equivalent of a v8 powered SUV - pretty much more than you need, which means less stress on the motor.

2. I don't know anything about Tractor motors but when I look at vehicles I look at the motor and try to find bulletproof ones. Are tractor motors made by certain manufacturers and shared amongst tractor brands? Are some motors known for their reliability over others?

3. I have looked at some used one .. the hours I've seen seem to be 1500 hours or less ... how many is too many? Also are there "service" intervals for tractors wherby a certain "hour mark" they pretty much require, new this, new that, etc?

4. I think maybe my eyes are bigger than my wallet right now, and the more I think the more maybe a backhoe isn't a critical accessory I need right now. Are there any critical "must have" accessories when buying? For example is a bucket loader a must have?

5. With tractors, is rust a concern? Do some manufacturers use better metal than other? Or maybe older built machines have better metal than new?

6. When it comes to attachments and parts are tractors universal? Can I mount any type of tractor backhoe to any tractor?, what about other accessories?

7. What usually breaks on tractors? Are they hard to work on or fix? Are some tractor parts more "universal" than others, or easier to find than others?

8. What tractors do you think have the best communities around them? One of the most helpful things for me is when I have a problem, to find forums and others that have had much experience with the same machines.

 

[TheMadOne]

There's a lot of great replies here ... getting me thinking in lots of directions.

The best thing I have to compare to this experience is cars ... I've been into cars for a while and like working on them so I can compare some lessons learned there to here.

1. I'm certainly of the belief that I prefer a more powerful engine vs a less powerful one. So whatever motor I get I would want it to be the equivalent of a v8 powered SUV - pretty much more than you need, which means less stress on the motor.

Then what you want to look for is the largest displacement engine with the lowest engine RPM required to achieve 540 PTO RPM.

2. I don't know anything about Tractor motors but when I look at vehicles I look at the motor and try to find bulletproof ones. Are tractor motors made by certain manufacturers and shared amongst tractor brands? Are some motors known for their reliability over others?

Not really. Branson tractors are powered by what amounts to a Cummins if that helps.

3. I have looked at some used one .. the hours I've seen seem to be 1500 hours or less ... how many is too many? Also are there "service" intervals for tractors wherby a certain "hour mark" they pretty much require, new this, new that, etc?

Maintanince is going to be the issue with any used tractor, just like a car. Typically I wouldn't be afraid of anything with less than 5k hours on it. Service intervals are throughout the life of the tractor and you shouldn't shy away from a well maintained tractor just because it's coming up on a service. You'll at least know that one was done properly.

4. I think maybe my eyes are bigger than my wallet right now, and the more I think the more maybe a backhoe isn't a critical accessory I need right now. Are there any critical "must have" accessories when buying? For example is a bucket loader a must have?

A FEL(Front End Loader) is the most critical implement to have for most of us. It not only allows us to move material in the bucket, but is a platform for adding forks, snow blades, and grapples. You can do a lot with just a FEL, shredder, and box blade.

5. With tractors, is rust a concern? Do some manufacturers use better metal than other? Or maybe older built machines have better metal than new?

Tractors are not made from thin hydroformed steel. Rust only becomes a serious issue if the tractor was used to spread caustic substances(salt/fertilizer), and was not properly cleaned afterwards.

6. When it comes to attachments and parts are tractors universal? Can I mount any type of tractor backhoe to any tractor?, what about other accessories?

No, backhoes are proprietary, and typically require a subframe. There are 3pt versions, but they are not recommended as they put undue stress on your 3pt assembly and have been known to rip the top link mount right out of the rear end housing. Any implement that connects to the tractor using the rear PTO, 3pt hitch, or drawbar will work across any brand. Those each have their own requirements, PTO HP (min and max), 3pt category(1, 2, 3), and max towing weight of your tractor.

7. What usually breaks on tractors? Are they hard to work on or fix? Are some tractor parts more "universal" than others, or easier to find than others?

A tractor, at the end of the day, is a diesel vehicle with a hydraulic system. Most breakages are either hydraulic or electrical. I'm unsure how to best answer your "easier to fix" question.

8. What tractors do you think have the best communities around them? One of the most helpful things for me is when I have a problem, to find forums and others that have had much experience with the same machines.

By shear volume, Kubota, Case, and John Deere have the largest communities. Case doesn't really play in the compact realm much.

 

[jeff9366]

The best thing I have to compare to this experience is cars ... I've been into cars for a while and like working on them so I can compare some lessons learned there to here.

1. I'm certainly of the belief that I prefer a more powerful engine vs a less powerful one. So whatever motor I get I would want it to be the equivalent of a v8 powered SUV - pretty much more than you need, which means less stress on the motor.

2. I don't know anything about Tractor motors but when I look at vehicles I look at the motor and try to find bulletproof ones. Are tractor motors made by certain manufacturers and shared amongst tractor brands? Are some motors known for their reliability over others?

1. Cars and trucks primarily overcome air resistance over 30 mph.

Tractors pull implements through dirt, DIRT RESISTANCE, from '0' mph to 10 mph for compact tractors.

Tractors with just a mid-power engine will simply spin their wheels/tires in typical tractor applications unless properly ballasted. Dirt provides little traction relative to concrete roads.

Heavier tractors are constructed on larger frames and longer wheelbases. Heavier tractors are built with thicker steel to withstand greater stress. Heavier tractors have larger diameter wheels/tires, increasing ground clearance. Heavier tractors with large diameter wheels/tires have more tractive power pulling ground contact implements, pushing a loader bucket into dirt and pushing snow. Larger wheels and tires permit heavier tractors to bridge holes, ruts and tree debris with less operator perturbation.

TRACTOR WEIGHT FIRST. TRACTOR HORESPOWER SECOND. TRACTOR BALLAST THIRD.


2. Diesel engines are ideal internal combustion engines for tractors.
Diesels are heavy; weight is your friend operating tractors.
Diesels provide lots of torque and run relatively cool as revs are low relative to gas.
Diesels require fueling less frequently per unit of work than gas engines. Most writing here tote and fuel compact tractors from five gallon containers.

Tractor implements break/bend occasionally as dirt contact parts encounter exceptional resistance while sunk. I am on good terms with the local high quality welding shop. Heavy implements break/bend less often than light implements.




VIDEO: So you want to TRADE UP for a new Tractor? - TMT - YouTube

 

[rangerfredbob]

Try auctions, there's an auction house near me that does 3 a year for mostly farm stuff, most of the implements my family has comes from there, we've gotten several tractors there for good deals, a Farmall M for $750 with 3 point, a Ford 8600 for $750 (might need clutch, has injection issues but runs) and a Ford 4600 for $4700 I think but had FEL. If you could find something like that 4600 for a reasonable deal you'd probably be set, it's simple, 50hp and that 201CI 3 cylinder is pretty easy to work on, we redid the head on my brothers Ford 4000 (same thing just 25 years older) and it really wasn't bad and I think all in with machining and parts it was around $500.