Using Hole Digger In Hard Red Clay

[charris65]

A word about shear pins- They are there for a reason. If you replace them with something that doesn't shear under excessive load, you run the risk of damaging the gear box. When I first started using an auger, I broke shear pins right and left. Then I learned. If you feel that the auger is going to bind against rocks, tree roots, or just hard clay, pull it out. I guess you have to shear a few pins before you learn. I haven't sheared a pin in over 20 years. If the auger is into rocks or tree roots, you will have to get them out by hand before you can continue. If it is hard clay, you need to soften it up with a digging bar and/or manual PHD. If this is too slow going, use water as advised by others. I've never gotten mine stuck in a hole. I guess knowing when to pull it out has served me well and it just takes practice to recognize the signs. Take it slow at first as you learn and build confidence.

the ground around here gets really hard during the summer. My PHD will usually dig it but its slow going and if I'm not careful the hydraulic downforce on the PHD will pick up the back of the tractor...which is a bit unnerving.


pull the auger out frequently. The first time I used my PHD, I got it stuck down in the hole, and it took me a while to get it back out.

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[chili4x4]

Make sure to have a few sheer pins with you just in case....

 

[Gord Baker]

I always keep the RPMs up and go down slowly. The Inertia from a faster spinning auger helps when you hit obstructions. Lots of Shear Pins.............

 

[Snezzy]

My wife watches from a respectable distance to ensure the PHD is going in vertically. We are always very careful to ensure that livestock and visitors are nowhere nearby. (We also don't want visitors when cleaning sheathes on our geldings.) We have yet to drill us some postholes to build us a rack for hanging the PHD when it's not in use, so every time we use it we have to fight to put it onto the 3-point and to remove it.

 

[meackerman]

shortly after a neighbor bought his house he was drilling holes for fence posts, and drilled through the irrigation district's underground pipe. He called them, they came right out and fixed it. A month or so later a bill for the fix arrived in the mail.

He turned around and gave it to the title company....they missed the irrigation district's easement on his property, and the title company ended up paying the bill. Though really he should have called the call-before-you-dig number.

 

[etpm]

Since you are new at this I think safety oughta be mentioned. When the tractor is running nobody should be close to the post hole digger. If drilling with a partner they can use the long handle provided with the digger to position it. Do not allow anyone to get any closer than the handle will allow while the tractor is running. If the auger gets stuck and your PTO doesn't reverse then the auger will need to be unscrewed manually. You can use a pipe wrench on the auger itself to unscrew it. The tractor must not be running when you do this. I know, it might seem to be a pain to shut off and then re-start the tractor engine. But it is necessary to do this to avoid getting seriously injured or killed. Also be aware that if could be any wire buried in the area, like fencing wire for example, the auger could catch it and if a helper is nearby the wire could catch them also and they could be dragged into the auger. I love my post hole digger but it scares me so I make sure nobody is close when I am using it and I shut off my tractor before getting off of the tractor.
Eric

 

[EddieWalker]

Here in East Texas, I have red clay and iron ore. It can be mixed, or just solid clay. The clay is like a pie crust, with the top layer being super hard. This can be 4 to ten inches thick, but normally, it's 4 to 6 inches thick. Once you get through that top layer, the ground holds moisture and it's easy digging. I have a full sized backhoe, and it can struggle to break through that top layer.

I started out with a cheap auger that was pretty much worthless. I bought a Speeco with replaceable teeth and tip that was night and day better, but it still struggled. I wore out the teeth fairly quickly using it and then one day, I couldn't find any more teeth for it at the store.

I needed to finish drilling holes and I was a bit desperate, so I went to Tractor Supply and bought a Country Line auger with replaceable teeth and tip. I had no idea that an auger could drill so fast!!! It goes right through the hardest red clay without effort. My biggest challenge is slowing it down so I don't burry it. This has become a real issue for me, it digs too fast!!!!!

Looking at the Speeco and the Country Line augers next to each other, they looks very similar, but performance is totally different.

 

[CobyRupert]

My understanding is clay can be rock hard if dry and packed, then powdery, or the stickiest of mud when wet. Sometimes all three depending on depth. Knowing what you’re dealing with and waiting for more ideal conditions can be everything. I know this is true with harrowing and planting on clay.

As others say: I don’t use 540 rpm, but probably around 200. Pull the auger back out frequently to spin off dirt. Corkscrewing auger into ground to where the 3 point hitch isn’t strong enough to raise it back up is a show stopper. Remember, there’s no reverse on a non-hydraulic auger.
Keep people away from spinning auger. Accidents are grisly. The only time people should be bent like a pretzel is… well, if they are enjoying it

 

[TN8Man]

Here is another question, what size auger for a 5" post?

I'm installing a fence around my new garden. I live in a rural area and I want to keep deer and other creatures from eating my vegetables. The plan was to use 5" posts for the corners and T-posts in between with one more 5" post for the gate. The posts are 8' and the fence is 5' so I would put the posts in 3' and use a bag of cement for each post.

 

[TN8Man]

Here in East Texas, I have red clay and iron ore. It can be mixed, or just solid clay. The clay is like a pie crust, with the top layer being super hard. This can be 4 to ten inches thick, but normally, it's 4 to 6 inches thick. Once you get through that top layer, the ground holds moisture and it's easy digging. I have a full sized backhoe, and it can struggle to break through that top layer.

I started out with a cheap auger that was pretty much worthless. I bought a Speeco with replaceable teeth and tip that was night and day better, but it still struggled. I wore out the teeth fairly quickly using it and then one day, I couldn't find any more teeth for it at the store.

I needed to finish drilling holes and I was a bit desperate, so I went to Tractor Supply and bought a Country Line auger with replaceable teeth and tip. I had no idea that an auger could drill so fast!!! It goes right through the hardest red clay without effort. My biggest challenge is slowing it down so I don't burry it. This has become a real issue for me, it digs too fast!!!!!

Looking at the Speeco and the Country Line augers next to each other, they looks very similar, but performance is totally different.

I'm heading to Tractor Supply to see if they have shear pins for the post hole digger. I'll check out their augers.

 

[etpm]

I'm heading to Tractor Supply to see if they have shear pins for the post hole digger. I'll check out their augers.

The shear pins are typically grade 2 bolts. The auger bolts to the gear box with grade 2 bolts on my post hole digger and the directions that came with my post hole digger specify grade 2 bolts for the shear pins. This makes sense since cheap grade 2 bolts are widely available.
Eric

 

[etpm]

I'm heading to Tractor Supply to see if they have shear pins for the post hole digger. I'll check out their augers.

The shear pins are typically grade 2 bolts. The auger bolts to the gear box with grade 2 bolts on my post hole digger and the directions that came with my post hole digger specify grade 2 bolts for the shear pins. This makes sense since cheap grade 2 bolts are widely available.
Eric

 

[RjCorazza]

Here is another question, what size auger for a 5" post?

I'm installing a fence around my new garden. I live in a rural area and I want to keep deer and other creatures from eating my vegetables. The plan was to use 5" posts for the corners and T-posts in between with one more 5" post for the gate. The posts are 8' and the fence is 5' so I would put the posts in 3' and use a bag of cement for each post.

With standard split rail (3 x 6") a 9" auger is the minimum. You'll need a little slop when setting the post. As far as concrete, this is very soil dependant, but I don't use any concrete on line, corner, or gate posts. My clay based soil is more than adequate when tamped in with a 2x4.
You may want to rethink a 5' high fence to keep out deer. If they decide they want in they'll jump that.

 

[JasperFrank]

Out of the box thinking here, but I've had a very difficult time digging any sort of post hole in summer with the soil we have. An auger simply doesn't work. My solution now, is to get all digging done in the spring while the soil is still wet. If I have to dig a hole in the summer, for some reason, I use high pressure water, focused, to blow down and excavate a hole. Its extremely messy, but does work.

 

[etpm]

With standard split rail (3 x 6") a 9" auger is the minimum. You'll need a little slop when setting the post. As far as concrete, this is very soil dependant, but I don't use any concrete on line, corner, or gate posts. My clay based soil is more than adequate when tamped in with a 2x4.
You may want to rethink a 5' high fence to keep out deer. If they decide they want in they'll jump that.

I was told by a guy working for WA State that deer here on Whidbey Island can pretty easily jump over an 8 foot fence. He was correct. I saw it happen when a scared deer jumped over my garden fence from the inside. The deer had entered through an open gate and I entered a few minutes later. It apparently didn't like my company.
Eric

 

[TN8Man]

The shear pins are typically grade 2 bolts. The auger bolts to the gear box with grade 2 bolts on my post hole digger and the directions that came with my post hole digger specify grade 2 bolts for the shear pins. This makes sense since cheap grade 2 bolts are widely available.
Eric

You have two shear pins where the auger bolts to the gear box?
That's what I have.

 

[TN8Man]

With standard split rail (3 x 6") a 9" auger is the minimum. You'll need a little slop when setting the post. As far as concrete, this is very soil dependant, but I don't use any concrete on line, corner, or gate posts. My clay based soil is more than adequate when tamped in with a 2x4.
You may want to rethink a 5' high fence to keep out deer. If they decide they want in they'll jump that.

Back to the drawing board.

 

[RjCorazza]

There are options, and certainly don't necessarily take my word on a 5' fence. When I was reading up on deer fence years ago 7' was the min recommended height. If they get popped on a shorter electric fence I suspect they would avoid the area entirely.
My neighbor uses motion activated sprinklers to keep deer from passing through his garden area with good results.

 

[Rebeldad1]

you may want to invest in a pto shaft with a slip clutch. i always worry which is stronger the constant breaking of shear bolts or the pto drive on the tractor.

 

[silverfox3402]

I always put a little "dent" where I want the hole with my hand operated hole diggers so the auger doesn't walk as bad starting the hole. I always have the hand diggers to do the final cleaning of the hole with me anyway.

Since it's usually at least several years since my previous use of the equip. I will place the auger and then get off the tractor to see if I'm aligned vertically the first couple of holes until I can visualize it from the seat.

I run my tractor maybe 1200 - 1500 rpm and keep my finger on my PTO button (electro/hydro pto) to stop it immediately when needed. If you have a clutch operated PTO of course your foot ought to be ready on or near the clutch pedal at all times.

My other hand stays on the 3 point lever to work it up & down. I will let it dig a little then raise the 3 pt quickly to sling the dirt off the flights and immediately lower it again but staying ready to pull it up if it starts digging too fast or hangs. If it hangs, I'll kill the pto switch and see what's happening/pull the auger up. Mine is mostly red clay with a lot of chert rocks but usually digs pretty well. On rare occassion I've had to hand dig a larger rock out to continue on but of the dozens & dozens of holes I've done I've never hung the auger hard in the ground.

Once you get the hang of it, it will go quickly for you. Of course you have to stop about mid-way and move your tractor usually back a little to keep the hole straight.

I think you're going to find that boring holes for fence posts is going to be more work than you figure - you'll need to go deeper than 2' if you think it's going to hold up. I did a couple dozen right at 4' deep and used a rock/tamping bar and the posts will always be a little loose - just this year I had to pound stakes around them to tighten them back up again. Driven posts for fences is the ticket !!

I used to use 2 augers. 1 small and 1 regular. The small one was used to make a pilot hole in the hard clay so as to be correct in depth and being level then drill with the larger auger after the little holes were the proper depth. Usually 3 ft. This would be after drilling 1000 holes for a large pasture fence.